Nov. 16, 2012, Friday, Los Frailes to Bahia de Los Muertos

We set out from Los Frailes in the morning after a good night’s sleep, intending to sail straight through to La Paz.  Several other boats had weather reports and it sounded good, 15 k winds from the NW, getting lighter in the evening and over the next several days.  (We have not quite figured out how to get weather on the radio.  We are fine as long as we have internet.)  When we got outside the harbor there was a brisk breeze.  We set the sails to tack off shore and away we went.  We had expected heavy winds so we had the staysail up along with the main and mizzen and settled into our routine of snacks and naps to get us through the next 2 days of sailing.  Sometime in the afternoon, Alan decided that the wind was not as strong as he expected and put up the regular jib.  For whatever reason he did not take down the staysail so now we had 4 sails up.  He just loves to play with the sails, try this one and then that one and various combinations to see what works. 

And then, instead of dying down as predicted, the wind began to build, close to 20 knots.  Seas were coming at us from all directions.  I guess they were not really very big, just short and choppy, but they seemed huge.  Of all the sailing issues, I think I dislike swells and waves the most.  Either we were rolling wildly from side to side with things in the cabin crashing around or we were plowing nose first into waves that sent sheets of water clear over the deck.  At least the water was warm.  Good thing, because we were both soaked before I got out our waterproof jackets and pants again.

We were actually still on our carefully plotted course for once and it is more or less time to tack.  Unfortunately the new tack is no smoother than the old one.  The wind is still howling and the waves are still coming.  Of course now it is getting late in the day and we need to do something about the sails before it gets dark.  First down comes the main.  This involves Alan clawing his way up to the mast while I try to head up into the wind so that he can get the sail down.  Once that is done we sail easier but still have 2 jibs up.  He finally decides to take the bigger one down, leaving the smaller staysail up.  Again he struggles to the bow while I hold the tiller.  Only this time it is not just a matter of holding onto the mast and dropping the sail.  He has to first loosen the lines and then grab hold of the wildly flapping sail and roll it towards the bowsprit where it gets tied down.  We bless our wonderful bow pulpit every time this happens.  Finally here we are, new tack towards shore, mizzen and staysail up, winds mostly over 20 knots, crazy waves and it is dark.  And oh yeah, we have not eaten since peanut butter sandwiches for lunch.  It is impossible to try to cook in this mess.  Not only are things sliding all over but the minute I go below I start to get seasick.  Out come the power bars. The hot water that I put in the thermos this morning is luke warm but I find some instant coffee packets and at least it is something.  Obviously neither one of us is going to get any sleep tonight.

While we had secured thing fairly well before setting out this morning, we had not expected this.  Our 4 large fenders sit in front of the cabin, 2 on each side of the mast.  We keep thinking that we need to find a better place for them but until the projects are done there is no room.  They have never slipped before but with this crazy crashing to all sides I am not sure they will stay.  I guess we will find out since there is not much we can do about it now.  As far as I can remember, everything else on deck is tied down.  Sometime during the dark night there is a loud thunk and a dark object about a foot across flies past.  We lost something although I can’t figure out what.  (Next day in the daylight the fenders are fine and I can’t find anything missing.  I finally decide it was some kind of sea life, a fish or ray, that hit the boat and went flying past)  

I am starting to think that we should stop in Los Muertos to rest before we go on to La Paz.  If I knew that it was going to be quiet tomorrow so Alan could sleep all day, I would say keep going but I need him to be rested and alert.  He needs sleep and food.  The next obstacle is going between a large island and the shore.