Sunday, August 17, 2014

a musical interlude

A musical interlude.

When Alan was 12 he was taken to see the stage play of South Pacific and that was the start of the dream that finds us here today. 


words from the songs made a huge impact.   they have stayed with him his whole life
“you got to have a dream if you don't have a dream how you gonna have a dream come true?”

Once you have found her never let her go

You’ve got to be taught  to be afraid 

Now that the dream has come true it seems appropriate to listen to the music.  And so we sit on the deck with a glass of wine as the sky turns lovely colors and then dark and the stars come out listening to the music and smiling and crying and being amazed that we are here.  at our age, still healthy, still in love

From South Pacific we move onto Edith Piaf and a dinner of cassoulet and baguette and then finish with Cleo Lane singing songs from Shakespeare

Bora Bora

Aug 9, 2014, Tahaa to Bora Bora

It is so still the next morning that Alan decides to go up the mast after breakfast.  There are several things that need to be taken care of up there that he has been putting off until we were in a calm spot or at a dock so this is the chance.  When he comes down an hour later we set off once again the rest of the way around Taha’a and out of the pass to Bora Bora.  The last stop and supposedly the most beautiful island in the Pacific.  Spray is flying and breakers crash against the reef as we exit but once outside the wind drops.  Another motor sail, luckily it is not far.

There is only one pass into Bora Bora and it is on the west side.  As we skirt the bottom of the island we see huge waves breaking ahead of us, apparently out in the middle of the ocean where it should be several hundred feet deep.  I think it is clouds or boats or something.  Alan is convinced that it is surf and steers a wide course.  Eventually we get close enough to see that he is right.  The reef here is almost 2 miles from the island and it is scary to see such huge waves out here.   A lighthouse at the corner of the reef seems to stand in the middle of the ocean.  We sail along the reef with it’s huge crashing waves and eventually enter a wide pass into a smooth lagoon and pick up a mooring at the Bora Bora Yacht Club. 

This is the end of the dream, something Alan has been looking forward to for years.  It is lovely.  We greet other boats and get the lay of the land.  The Bora Bora Yacht Club is not so much a yacht club as a very upscale restaurant but there is free fast wifi and, best of all, free hot showers.  We have not had showers since we left Mexico and for the next several days I take at least one and sometimes two a day, just for the joy of it.  In the evening we sit on the deck of the club with a glass of wine and watch the beautiful sunsets.  After dark we watch the fish in the glow of the underwater lights. We walk up the road tot he grocery store and buy baguettes and cheese.. 

After several days we move to a mooring off of Bloody Mary’s and treat ourselves to a magnificent dinner.  The mooring there is unfortunately windy and their wifi is not working so then next morning we move back up to the yacht club mooring and several days later it is time to leave.

There is no time to really finish this.  We are leaving for Tonga

Tahaa

Aug 7, 2014  Raiatea to Tahaa

The reef here encompasses both the island of Raiatea and that of Tahaa   It is possible to sail completely around both islands if you are really careful, watch the markers carefully and keep a close eye on the Navionics charts.  I must say, these charts have been wonderful, worth every enny and all the trouble to download them.  They are right on.   We can zoom in or zoom out to see detail or an overview.  they figure your course and tell you when you will get there based on current speed.  Of course they cannot figure in the wind direction and tell you when to tack.  The captain needs to do something.  Although I expect that they will do that soon on boats with all the latest gizmos. 

We motor  between the two islands and find an anchorage acres from the “coral gardens” on Tahaa.  Everyone on the net has been talking about the fabulous drift dives here.  Walk to the other side of the pass, put on snorlke and mask, no need for flippers and just drive along back to where you left the dingy.  It is another day os wind and scattered clouds when we get there so the dive is not as spectacular as it could have been but still lovely.  Fish of all colors and shapes swim right around us as we drift along, completely unafraid of people.  Unfortunately much of the coral is grey and lifeless, covered with dust.

After our five we weigh anchor and move on around to another deep bay on the other side of Tahaa.  Again we are the only boat here.  It is completely quiet and absolutely calm overnight. 

Raiatea

Aug 4, Raiatea, town dock

Ir is a cloudy, windy, rainy day when we leave our lovely anchorage and move to Utoroa  it is only  few miles inside the reef so we don;t bother with sails.  We are looking for the anchorage when we spot the masts of lots of boats apparently tied up in a marina.  It is the town dock that we have been hearing about on the net.  Luckily we had gotten out the fenders and mooring lines.  There is a concrete wharf with a couple of piers running out to create a partially enclosed harbor.  Unfortunately the really protected part is reserved for the local tour/dive boats.  The dock is lined with sailboats but there is one space left if we can just get into it with this wind blowing.  Cruisers come out to grab lines,  Alan back and forths as if he is parallel parking and eventually we are securely tied.    The wind is blowing hard and pushing us against the dock and we get out every single fender we have.  We had purchased 4 square, inflatable fenders and never used them.  Now they come out of their stowage spots, one by one.  They are wonderful.  Blow up with just a few breaths, strong, straps on all 4 corners to tie on.  eventually we have 8 fenders between us and the dock.  Over the next 4 days wind gusts hit 30 knots.  We are not going anywhere.  What a difference to just step off the boat onto a dock, without having to get out the dingy.  It is interesting to contrast Rhapsody with her low freeboard to other boats.  We can just step on and off easily.  Others have to clamber over railings and canvas and up and down slippery steps.

Other boats are dealing with mechanical problems.  People’s visas are all running out and they need to go to the gendarme to get an extension which requires several hours and lots of paperwork.  One boat has signed out and back in again 3 times because of mechanical and weather problems.  We spend several days here with wind and rain.  We spend the time exploring the town, using the wifi, shopping and visiting other boats.  This is the second biggest town in the islands and it is just one street about 10 blocks long and 4 marinas and an airport.

Eventually the wind drops a little and the boat behind us takes off.  This allows us to back up and get a better angle to leave.  our first try at leaving is unsuccessful.  The wind just pushes us back into the dock.  Eventually we round up friends and put them each on a rope.  A rope is run from the stern to a forward cleat on short and the other lines are cast off as Alan puts it in reverse.  The nose swings out as those ashore pull on the stern line and finally we have a good enough angle to go.  He puts otto forward and guns the motor.  Those ashore drop the lines and we are off.

Huanine to Raiatea

Aug 3, 2012  Huahini to Raitaea

It is a lovely day with a light wind when we take off from Huanine, headed for Raiatea just 20 miles away.  Raiatea is the spiritual center of Polynesia and the site of the most important marae or religious sites.  All other temples throughout Polynesia, including Hawaii, look to Raiatea as the center and all of them incorporate a stone from here in their construction. The main maera is at the southern end of the island so we are headed there to anchor first.  Tomorrow we will move on up to the main town.  Our anticipated day sail turns to to be a motor cruise.  There is almost no wind and the sky is clear and sunny.  For the first time in a long time it is actually hot.  A few hours later we are entering the pass through the coral reef on Raiatea headed up into a deep bay to anchor and straight into a mass of grey cloud  As we follow the buoys up into the bay the cliffs close in around us.  It is cool and misty, not quite rain but almost.  We head deeper up not the bay until we are surrounded by steep green cliffs wreathed in cloud and drop anchor in 50 feet of clear water.  It is so quiet here.  There are only a few houses along the shore, a couple of other boats anchored nearby.  Quite a change from yesterday.

There is a river at the head of the bay which heads deep into the jungle. Since we still have a few hours of daylight left we decide to launch the dingy go exploring.  This is still another world.  Dense growth along the river banks allow brief glimpses of cultivated fields beyond.  We thread carefully around shallows and tree limbs for almost an hour before turning back.  Brilliant tropical flowers grow wild here.  I gather armfuls to take back to the boat.  

The next day we et out to visit the marae.   I have missed visiting the ruins on all of the islands and I am determined to visit this one. As far as we can tell for looking at our various maps and charts and guide books, it is several miles further down towards the end of the island.  We need to go out of this bay and across two other small bays to get there.  It will be a long, cold, wet dingy ride since the weather is still gloomy but we decide not to go to all the trouble of raising the anchor and moving the boat.

Eventually we arrive at what we think must be the right place.  There is a cement wharf, several palm huts and a large arena.  a handful of people are gathered under a tent having lunch and kids play in the water.  It is rainy and feels cool but it is never actually cold here and kids will always play in the water given the change no matter the weather.  We tie the dingy to a tree and wander ashore.  We are in a large park with short grass and wonderful large trees.  Signs identify the trees and explain religious and spiritual meaning.  The marae itself are large stone platforms with large standing stones along the back.  Originally there were palm buildings but they havens since fallen apart.  At the center of the largest platform is a pile of stones that seems to be an alter.  It is covered with gifts, necklaces, flowers, pots, wood carvings, etc.  Obviously the old religion has not entirely disappeared.  In fact the site is still used for important ceremonies.  It is lovely here, calm, peaceful.  There are sudden rain showers followed by clearing and rainbows. Finally we head back to the dingy and another long wet ride back.  Back aboard, we hang our wet clothes and get into soft pjs and brew up some hot buttered rum. 

Next day we move out, headed up island to the main town.

Saturday, August 16, 2014

Moorea to Huanine

July 30, 2014,  Moorea to Huahine

We have checked the weather reports repeatedly.  The storm that everyone was waiting for seems to have passed to the south.  There are still strong winds but they should die down today.  Huahine is about 100 miles away which means an overnight sail.   If we leave around noon we should arrive the next morning, hopefully not too early.  The day looks beautiful.  There are light winds and scattered clouds.  We head carefully out of the pass and discover that we are in for a rocky ride.  There are huge swells and not much wind.   After about an hour the wind picks up.  We put the main sail up but take it down before very long as the wind keeps building.  By late afternoon Alan decides that we should reef the mizzen too.  This is always a challenge.  The boom is guide a bit longer than the boat which means that we cannot reach the first reef point.  to tie it down.  So we decide to double reef.  Even this takes some doing.  I get the sail down and the forward reef point tied but I cannot get the back one.  I get the sail all bundled up but the wind rips it out of my hands before I can get it tied.  Eventually I take over steering and Alan gets it tied down.  It is not pretty but it should hold and it is certainly easier to steer now. 

The seas are still huge and coming crossways which makes the boat really rocky and very hard to steer.  Every once in a while a wave will come from a different direction and crash right into the cockpit.  We had started out in shorts and t shirts since it was such a nice day but I finally pull out our foul weather gear again.  At least it is not raining this time but we still have all the portholes and hatches closed to keep out the spray. 

Alan has decided that he will pull an all-nighter and steer the whole way, which is a good thing since I am seasick,   I stagger through the boat to the head where I find a patch and stick it behind my ear.  After about 20 minutes I feel it kick in.  I now have a very dry mouth with a funny taste in it but at least the nausea fades.  Unfortunately, I am also very sleepy.  I manage to get some dinner together for Alan and rouse myself about once an hour to make sure he is OK.  Other than that, I sleep.  Finally about midnight, I feel well enough to take over for a couple of hours so that he can get some sleep. By morning the waves have died down quite a bit.  We make landfall about 10am and enter into a lovely calm anchorage with about 10 other boats. 

Once we have anchored, I realize that I can take off the patch.  Turns out they are designed to last for 3 days and it takes that long for the effects to wear off.  I am just really sleepy and lethargic and still have this weird taste in my mouth.  This is the first time I have used one of the patches when we were not on a long passage and I did not realize how much it affected me.

Huahine turns out to be our favorite place so far.  It is hard to say why,  There is just a very relaxed, friendly feeling here.  It feels like “real Polynesia”.  There are the same lovely green hills and dramatic rock formations that we have seen on other islands, maybe not as drop dead gorgeous as Moorea but still beautiful.  There is a charming village here that looks like something out of the old west.  A wharf with kids diving off of it into incredibly clear water.  There is the best supermarket we have seen so far, with better prices than Tahiti.  A little restaurant right on the waterfront calls itself Huahine Yacht Club and has cheap beer, a happy hour, very good food and live music.  The clientele consists of a handful of cruisers and lots of locals.    Just a little way along the road is a lovely hotel with charming bungalows set among lush gardens.  The lobby is absolutely stunning with high vaulted wood ceiling and an elegant display of local artifacts.  We take the dingy for a tour around the bay and a couple of kids in outriggers decide to surf our wake.  We have great fun steering in circles for them.  Darn, Darn, Darn, I want to stay here for a week or two.  I want to visit the ruins and see the other anchorages, but we have no time.  Our visa is running out and we still need to get to Raiatea and Bora Bora.

Moorea agan

July 29, 2014, Moorea again


Moorea is just beautiful.  Steep cliffs.  The rock formations remind me of the southwest, although they are covered in green and wreathed with clouds.  We pass Cook’s bay this time and head for Opunahu Bay, the next one over.  We have heard that it is even more beautiful.  It is lovely but since the anchorage is just at the outside corner it is not nearly so spectacular.  We run the dingy ashore and walk up the road to the Hilton where we sit on their deck, check our email and enjoy their happy hour.  Sometimes we like to pretend that we are still on the 5 star convention circuit. 

Once again, there is a road encircling the island with a few houses and the occasional store and lots of churches.  There are churches everywhere on these islands.  I have heard there is beautiful singing but except for once in Rangiroa, we have not managed to get to a service.  Just not A;an’s cup of tea, maybe in Tonga.  We have been told there is a botanic garden up the hill that is worth visiting.  It is indeed “up the hill”.   A cement road heads straight up the side of the mountain, no switchbacks here.  I have no idea how they get are to climb this steep grades.  15 minutes later, puffing and panting, with hearts racing, we arrive at a small fruit stand that is just about to close for the day.  The specialties are smoothies made from fresh fruit.  Alan asks for pineapple juice and the just plop a whole pineapple into the juicer.  The jams are lovely, made from all the local fruits.  I end up buying  carambole and tiare.  The tiare is the national flower, sort of a cross between a gardenia and a plumeira and the jam smells and tastes wonderful, like a mouth full of fresh flowers.  i cannot wait to have it on waffles  There is a basket of fruit on the counter to explain to the tourists what is what and since they are closing they give us the entire basketfull, 2 bags of fruit. 

Next day we head to see the sting rays.  This is one of the “things to do” here.  Everyone is talking about walking with the stingrays and petting the sting rays.  We have the coordinates.  We know roughly where they are but we are not sure how to get there.   It is on the other side of the by and up into the reefs.  Several boats have anchored over there but a look at the charts shows too much shallow water for us.  These islands are interesting.  inside the reefs the water goes from 100 feet to just a few feet in a matter of minutes. There are no gently sloping beaches here, just deep lagoons or coral reefs.  We head out in the dingy looking for a channel.  The water changes door dramatically as it changes depth, from wine dark sea to shimmering aqua to a dark brown where the reefs come to the surface.  We can see the reefs but we are not high enough to see far enough ahead to pick out a channel.  Alan finally decides that we need to go close to shore.  There are motor boats tied up in front of houses along the shore and he reasons that there must be a channel there that they use to get in and out.  WRONG   I an sure that there is a channel but we never find it.  The water gets shallower and shallower and eventually it is too shallow for the motor.  And so, I just out and walk along in the water pulling the boat with Alan sitting in the stern.  Eventually we come to deep water.  I flop back aboard and we head carefully over to where we can see tour boats gathered.  

Oh wow!  Rays all around us.  Must be at least a meter from wing tip to wing tip.  All over the place.  And black tipped reef sharks!  What an experience.  I decide not to get out and walk among them but a lot of other people are.  They are so tame.  I expect the locals feed them here so that they have a reliable tourist attraction but it is still wonderful.  On the way back we realize that there are tall posits planted in the bay to mark the channel.  The tour boats go racing back and forth, we go a little slower, keeping out of their way and watching out for reefs.

It is 100 miles to the next island, Huahini, so we take off in the late morning for an overnight sail.

Overheated engine

July 28, 2014  leaving Tahiti


Finally, finally we are heading back to Moorea.  Most of the projects are done, especially anything involving purchasing parts or downloading computer files.  It is a bright day with a brisk breeze.   Anchor up, we head out of the mooring field and down the channel to the airport.  One of the projects that did not get done is fixing the vhf radio in the cockpit so I am down below calling the port captain for clearance.  There is a funny smell, like rubber burning.  When the captain says stand by, I tell Alan about the smell and open the door to the engine room.  Smoke comes pouring out.  Alan looks at the temperature gage at the same moments and sees that the engine is way overheated.  Quickly he kills the engine and I call the port captain to tell him that we have a problem and we will not be passing the airport right now.  When I ask about the possibility of a tow back to the anchorage he says that it will be $800US per hour.  Thanks says I.  Let me get back to you about that.  We are in a busy and fairly narrow channel,  just at the end of the airport runway and surrounded by reefs. Meanwhile Alan has run forward and raised the jib sail to give us some way of controlling the boat.  I raise the mizzen and somehow we manage to maneuver into a small bay to the side of the channel and drop anchor. 

Time to figure out what happened and assess the damage.  Alan quickly realizes what happened.  The engine is cooled by saltwater and there is a valve that must be open when the engine is running to let the water in.  (It needs to be closed when we are at anchor to keep the water out.)  It was very stiff and he had only gotten it halfway open so there was not enough water to keep the engine cool.  He checked everything that he can think of and as far as he can tell there is no serious damage.  We obviously need to wait until it cools before we can start it up again and make sure it is running OK.   We will spend the night here and try again in the morning.  So here we sit.  Lunch, a drink, a nap.  We had not noticed or cared in all the excitement that there were a number of mooring balls around us.  As the day went on, fairly large commercial boats came and tied onto their moorings.  Some of them swung fairly close to us but we decided that we would be OK for the night. 

Next morning, Alan does another engine check and then starts it up.  It is noisy but everything seems to be OK.  We hoist the anchor and I call the port captain again.  Instead of the usual clearance we are told to stand by for 2 planes which means going around in a circle, avoiding the reefs until the all clear comes.  We are watching the gages like a hawk and I have the engine room door open so that I can see immediately if there is more smoke.  Eventually we are given the all clear and we head past the runway and wind among the reefs towards the main harbor.  Just as we reach the other end of the runway and just as I am about to call for clearance again a small plane takes off just over our heads.  The port captain gives us clearance and we finally clear the runway, exit the harbor and are on our way to Moorea again

Tahiti Sport Day

July 27, 2014  Sports day

(See photos on Facebook )

Part of the heiva was a sports day, a whole day of traditional games.  As we drove up to the venue The MC gave a cry and javelins started to fly.  At first I though the goal was to see who could throw farthest, but this was a more difficult challenge.  A coconut is mounted on a long pole, maybe 100 feet up and the idea is to hit it.  The person with the most javelins actually stuck into the cocoanut wins.  Javelins fly.  Men laugh and cheer.  Every half hour or so a halt is called so that javelins can be collected for the next round.  The first coconut is louvered and taken away to be scored, more points for hitting close to the middle, no points if your javelin falls out while being counted.   A new coconut is raised and it begins again.  Each man looks to have 10-20 javelins apiece and the compete in teams, all dressed alike in colorful pareos.  This went on all afternoon with spectators coming and going.  Towards the end to the day there was also a junior event. 

Meanwhile, in another part of the field the coconut husking race was underway.  This was very different from the one we participated in on Moorea.  Teams of 4 women face a pile of what looks like 50 coconuts.  At the sound of the bell, one woman swings an axe splitting the coconut neatly in two, usually with one stroke. The second woman grabs the halves and tosses then to the other two who are seated.  The take a metal tool and pop the meat out of the shell and throw it into a pile.  First team to finish wins.  Cocoanuts come thick and fast.  I swear someone is going to lose a finger, or foot the way the axe is flashing.  It takes about 15 minutes for them to finish the pile and all 3 teams finish within a few minutes of each other.

Next event is rock lifting.  One by one, people, men and women, come forward to hoist a massive stone to their shoulder.  Women and younger people have a slightly lighter stone, only 50 kilos, rather than the 70k the bigger men are lifting.  One positions ones feet, grips the stone with both arms around the middle and heaves in one movement.  Up, to the chest and then the shoulder and let go with one hand while balancing it there.  Then drop it.  The lift is timed from the moment of first heave to the moment the are is raised away from the stone.

We are also treated to more dancing, crafts booths and food stalls.  We munch on cocoanut and baguettes stuffed with barbecue and french fries.   All in all a delightful day.

Friday, August 15, 2014

Tahiti again

July 7, 2014

We had not expected to come back to Papeete after the festivities on Moorea but we have been offered a deal on batteries too good to refuse, 6 almost new batteries for $100 total.  Usually they are several hundred dollars each.  Alan has been worried about the batteries for some time.  They just won’t hold a charge so we constantly need to run the engine or the generator to charge them.  The solar panels which are supposed to keep them topped up stopped working in Mexico.  All in all, we are having a hard time with power.  Luckily we don’t use much but we need to be able to charge the computers to run the navigation programs.  And it turns out that the stove also will not light with out power.  And of course it is nice to have light. 

So we are back and of course all does not go smoothly.  While he is working on that, I go exploring downtown.  Clothes are expensive and I really do not have room for any more but it is fun to look.  Fabric shops are always a delight.  There are pearl shops everywhere.  Black pearl are one of the major industries in French Polynesia.  You can buy single pearls on as necklace or earrings for around $50.  More elaborate jewelry creations run into the hundreds of dollars.  Street vendor sell mother of pearl jewelry and you can even buy loose pearls and make your own.  Every woman that I see is wearing at least one pearl.  I wander and browse and eventually spend a delightful hour choosing one pearl to wear as a necklace.  Lovely as the others are, It seems silly to have hundreds of dollars worth of jewelry on the boat. 

Besides the batteries there are other projects to work on.  The mizzen boom has started to split, due to too much banging and is held together with clamps at the moment.  If you don’t duck low enough you are in danger of getting a gash in your scalp and in fact Alan has taken several hits.    Eventually we will need to replace the boom but after extensive consultation, the inter rum solution is buy a new set of clamps with rounded corners and shorter shafts.  We also need to replace the main sheet.  Once he finds the correct rope it needs to be spliced on.  Things that seem like they should take a few hours always take several days. He finds a good deal on a gas outboard motor for the dingy which will make our life much simpler.  Unfortunately it does not fit right.  When he tried to take it back the next day, after using it once, he is told that it is “used” and he will only get half of his money back.  There is also no alternative engine.  Eventually we figure out how to make it fir using a piece of wood that clamps between the motor and the dingy.  Again, an easy project takes days. 

I spend my time provisioning, cleaning out the cupboards and checking to see which supplies are low.  We still have plenty of rice and oatmeal left from my vacuum seal project before we left home but everything else needs to be restocked.  I also tackle several sewing projects.  My little sewing machine is refusing to work.  It needs a new bobbin case.  After spending a whole day chasing around downtown looking for the part, I resign myself to hand sewing.

And so, what with one thing and another, it is the end of July before we leave Tahiti again.  Instead of having a week to explore each of the other islands, we will only have a few days on each one.  Not right.  Not how this trip were supposed to go. 

Moorea

July 4, 2014,  Moorea

This is it!  Alan has finally found his dream island.  We left Tahiti in the morning of July 4, along with about 25 other boats from the Pacific Puddle Jump fleet.  We were about an hour behind everyone else getting out of the harbor because there were so many things to finish, clean up and put away before we could leave, but eventually we cleared the airport and were out of the reef.  There was a brisk wind and one by one we hoisted all 3 sails.  This is our first chance to see the patch on the main sail and it looks great.  He did a really nice job.  It is only 14 miles from Papeete to Cook’s Bay on Moorea and we were entering the bay by 2:00 after a great sail.  As the last boat in, we got to make our grand entrance.  The committee boat from Latitude 38 came out to meet us and followed us for about 20 minutes with their cameras going.  They got some beautiful pictures. Once again we are greeted and acknowledged as the most beautiful boat in the fleet. 

Anchoring is in 50 feet of water and it is quite crowded with 25 boats packed into this narrow bay.  Hopefully everyone’s anchor is tight.  First order of business, once we are secure, is a swim, followed by a pitcher of rum punch.  It is incredibly beautiful here.  A deep, narrow bay runs back between steep green cliffs rising straight up from the gorgeously clear water.  There are a half dozen bungalows on stilts over the water at the Bali Hai Club and a few other buildings around the bay tucked into the vegetation. It is quiet after the bustle of Tahiti.  Just a few scooters and an occasional car go by.  Just beautiful.  It is hard to believe that we are here and that we sailed here in our own boat. 

There is a party ashore in the evening with dinner and a dance show.  A chance to make new friends and compare notes.  Next day the games begin.  A full day has been planned, starting with the delivery of a fresh, warm baguette to each boat.  Once we finish breakfast and make our way to shore we are treated to our own mini heave.  There are outrigger canoe races, coconut husking contests, tug of war, dance lessons and lessons in how to tie a parea.  There is a team of kids from several of the boats who manage to win most of the events.  Demonstrations of local crafts include traditional tattooing, palm hat weaving, parea dying and several others.  There is not time to see and do everything.  We are treated to a huge lunch including all of the traditional foods; poisson cru, roast chicken and pork, stewed spinach in coconut milk, sweet potatoes and taro.  The end of the day finds us happy and tired and unbelievably content as we sit on Rhapsody and watch the sunset over this beautiful bay.  


We had originally thought that this weekend would be the beginning of our exploration of the other Society Islands but there is still stuff to do in Papeete.  We spend Monday just being lazy and the head bcd the next day, determined to return as soon as possible to explore this beautiful island.

Heiva

July 3, 2014  Heiva

I first heard about Heiva when Audrey was at school in Hawaii and I have always wanted to go to one so when I realized that we would be in Tahiti at the right time I was delighted.  In fact part of our reason for leaving Mexico later was so that we would not have to leave here too soon.  Heiva is a month long celebration of Polynesian culture wrapped around Bastille Day and Tahiti National Day.  Really just an excuse to take the month off and party.  The centerpiece is the dance competition, 3 groups per night for 8 nights.  Each group perform 3 dances with their whole session lasting almost an hour.  There are very strict rules about the types and styles of dances.  Both the choreography and the costumes must  new, never used before and the costumes must be made by the dancers.  At least one set of costumes must be made completely of plant material, sort of like the rose parade.  Each group has their own band, chorus and instruments.  In addition, there are arts and crafts exhibits at the museums and various sporting events, including an extensive series of canoe races.

So I am determined to go to at least one evenings performance, more if I can schedule it.  The first issue was the transportation issue, solved by renting a car.  Once that was handled it was a matter of getting tickets.  We could order them at the marina but were advised that it was better to go downtown to buy them so that we could pick out the seats.  We headed downtown, negotiated the one way streets, roundabouts and not turn zones and found a parking place only to discover that the ticket office was closed.  This actually turned out to be a lessing in disguise.  While we were trying to find the office we were lake pity on by a woman in the festival office.  She decided that we absolutely must see the National Day performance, which was not part of the Heiva and thus did not have to conform to all of the rules but was an equally good show telling the story of one of the legends of Tahiti.  the show was to be tomorrow night after the parade.  she not only gave us free tickets but provided a parking pass so that we could park in the VIP parking section.   In fact she gave us 4 tickets since we had already planned to attend the parade with another cruising couple. 

The day of the parade, Sunday, we headed into town early to claim our parking spot.  It worked like a charm.  We were parked right next to the arena.  The main street downtown runs along the waterfront.  Between it and the ocean is a lovely park which was filled with families enjoying the day.  The streets were blocked off and eventually the parade started.   The parade consisted of groups of people in matching outfits walking in groups.  A few of them carried paddles or danced but mostly they just walked and waved.  There must have been 50 different groups representing all of the villages on the island and many of the local schools, clubs and civic groups.  There were at least as many people in the parade and there were in the audience.  Halfway through it started to rain, not just a sprinkle but a downpour but people kept marching and the spectators just moved under the trees.  1/2 hours later it quit and everyone moved back to their seats.

Beween the parade and the show we got dinner from the “roulettes”  (lunch wagons)  To our amazement, there was no alcohol sold anywhere We would have to go back into town to a restaurant to get a beer.  It is interesting how tightly controlled the sale of alcohol is but it leads to a very family friendly environment. 

The dance performance was extraordinary.  Probably 100 dancers, along with singers, drummers and other musicians.  Tahitian dance is characterized by super fast hip wiggles on the part of the women and knee shakes by the men.  The show went on for 2 hours.  I was exhausted just watching.  I cannot imagine how tired they must be after a show.  So much energy!!  When we went back to the actual heiva contest performance, there were 3 troups  Each one danced for well over an hour, doing 3 distinct dances in different styles.  The dancing we so energetic that pieces of their costumes were left all over the floor.  They had one dancer whose job was to collect costume pieces and try to reattach them to the performer without breaking character or interrupting the show.  Pretty funny actually.  There must be a video on you tube that shows this.   

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Tahiti gardens and fire walk

July 2, 2014
Tahiti, gardens and fire walk

Alan needs to spend the day working on the starter so I decide to take the car and go back down to the end of the island to see some of the things that we missed.  After all, we have the car and will probably never be back here again.  I planned on an leisurely trip with time to investigate several small stores that we had passed and get lunch at one of the food stands.  Typically, I was late leaving.  Alan had stuff that had to be done before he could take me ashore so it was almost noon when I set off and I needed to be back by 4:00 to pick him up and get to the fire walk ceremony tonight.

So off i went, headed down the length of the island to the botanic garden.  It has been a long time since I drove a car and still longer since I drove stick shift but after a few miles everything went smoothly.  I negotiated roundabouts and construction sites with aplomb.  An hour later found me walking into the swampy woods of the botanic gardens.. It was not large and there were almost no explanatory signs.  The path wound along a stream, through large stands of trees and then across open meadows.  I wish I could remember what kind of trees they were.  They had the most amazing roots,  sharp as a knife on top.  Ferns grew up the trunks.  There was a cage with two lethargic Galapagos turtles .  Very peaceful. I could have spent hours just wandering and looking but I had no time.  I completed the 2.5 hour walk in 30 minutes, turned in my map and headed back north. 

About a mile back up the road there is a sign for “Water Garden”.  I have no idea what it is but it sounds lovely.  It turns out to be even better than the botanic gardens.  Tucked between the edge of the ocean and the steep cliff is a beautifully landscaped path that winds and climbs among waterfalls and ponds.  No admission fee here, just a gift shop.  The best part is that every plant and tree has a little sign telling what it is, where it came from and how it is used.  The garden purports to follow the adventure of an eternal spirit from death through a series of rituals and quests until all the past misdeeds are cleansed and the spirit is ready for eternal life.  At one point I come to a junction with a 2 hour hiking trail that climbs up the side of the cliff.  I wish I had the time to follow it but I only have another 15 minutes here.  There are ginger plants, white ginger, red ginger, pink ginger, giant ginger and several other varieties.  Tiare, mango, polynesian chestnut, lychee trees.  Water lilies in a variety of colors and lovely waterfalls and cascades everywhere.  Once again I could spend hours here and have no more time

About half way back to town is my last stop, advertised as “grottoes” There is not even a parking lot here, just a wide spot in the road as it skirts the base of the cliff .  A few steps up the path leads to the cliff face, towering above and  dripping with ferns.  It is also dripping with water and ahead is a large opening with a pool of clear water reaching far back into a dark cave.  I take off my shoes and wade out into it.  Lovely, cool, mysterious.  I am tempted to see how far back into the grotto I can go but again I have no time. Signs indicate that there are several more grottos but it is time to get back to town. 

Once I collected Alan and we grabbed a quick dinner we headed out of town again to a small park along the beach for the Fire walk.  We had no idea what to expect but the advertisements said that everyone except very young children and menstruating women was welcome to participate.  Chairs were set around a large pile of stones and as darkness fell torches were lighted.  There were several hundred people present and almost everyone in the audience spoke French and seemed to know each other so this was obviously not just a show for the tourists.  Once the torches were lit there was a long speech in French and Tahitian   As best we could understand, there was a history of the tradition with an admonition that this was a sacred rite and not to be undertaken frivolously.  There was also a long list of sponsors and friends to be thanked.  Next came a procession of elders, dressed in their native costume, with stern faces.  There was a short dance performance and then the elders walked across the stones four times, once in each direction with suitable prayers to the gods.  Once they were done  it was the turn of the apprentices and the dancers and then everyone in the audience was invited.  I was nervous but determined to do this.  Alan had decided it was silly and was going to sit it out.  One by one  people stood and got into the line.  It was an interesting experience.  There was almost complete silence.  Shoes were left behind and we were told to just walk fearlessly ahead without stopping.  There were quite a few children and even parents with babies in arms participating.  It was obvious that the stones were hot, from time to time the line would be stopped so that burning embers could be brushed off, but there was no sensation of heat on my feet.  In the end, Alan decided that he did not want to be left out so he joined the line too.  And that was it.  One by one, people walked across and then gradually drifted off home.

Exploring Tahiti

June 28, 2014  exploring tahiti,

We take one day out of our project schedule to drive out of town and explore the more rural part of Tahiti.  As usual, there is one main road that skirts the coast.  Once to of town, it becomes 2 lanes.  Luckily there is not much traffic although we of get stuck behind the occasional slow truck. or tractor  They always turn off after a few miles.  Again I am reminded of Ireland.  Everything is so green and moist, although this is much warmer.  The French/european influence is evident in the use of roundabouts.  They work much better than 4 way stops or traffic lights to sort out traffic and keep it flowing.  The US would do well to have more roundabouts.

Our first stop is a small museum where we are treated to a wonderful overview of the history of these islands.  An excellent display shows how the islands are formed, from active volcano thrusting up from the sea floor to decaying atolls.  French Polynesia covers an area the size of the entire US.  Surprisingly, the museum does not exhibit the usual anger toward the western explorers and missionaries for bringing disease and destroying the native culture.  Out front is an enormous anchor from the Bounty.  It was retrieved from the bay by David Lean when he was here remaking Mutiny on the Bounty, restored and given to the museum.

Shortly after leaving the museum we come to what is obviously a festival of some sort.  Of course we must stop to investigate.  It is part of the Hieva, the orange caring contest.  Oranges are grown way up the valley, packed into net bags and hung on the end of long poles.  Runners bring then down to the coast by carrying the poles across their shoulders.  The contest is to see who arrives first with the most weight.  There are tables set around a large lawn, each apparently hosted by a team.  Large, muscular men in colorful sarongs man the tables, pose for pictures and offer bags of oranges for $5 each.  Wow, those are expensive oranges.  There are only about a dozen to a bag.  We assume that it is a fundraiser for the teams, except that later I discover oranges in the stores sell for $5/kilo. 

Back on the road, we drive past towering cliffs on one side and the still waters of the lagoon on the other.  There are small skiffs or outriggers tied up all along the shore.  In the distance, waves break against the reef.  There are a few marinas along the way with a handful of sailboats.  Eventually we come to the end of the island and a surfing beach.  This is Teahupoo, a famed surfing beach.  Kids are playing in the water, families picnicking under the trees but the surfing waves are way on the reef.  This is not at all what I am used to for surfing.. There should be long swells rising to great heights and breaking against a sandy shore not these short steep waves that crash against a coral reef.  If you wipe out here you are really going to get scraped up.  But the book says that Tahiti invented surfing.

Having come to the end of the road, it is time to head back.  We pass the road to the waterfalls botanic gardens, water gardens, grottos with no time to stop.  Maybe another day.

Papeete

June 23.  2014, Tahiti, Papeete

The next week passes quickly.  Alan takes full advantage of the car to track down all of the parts that he needs.  The new starter switch is located, installed, rewired and finally works.We find a sailmaker, a frenchman who has converted a large trimaran  into a sail loft.  Both the main sail and the yellow genoa are expertly mended.  We decide to let the jib be.  It looks sort of funky with it’s blue stripe but it seems to be holding.  I pull all of the anchor line out and hang it out to dry and then repack it into plastic baskets in the sail locker.  One by one, all of the other jobs get done.

We make numerous trips to the mall where Alan sits in the cafe and uses their wifi while I shop for groceries .  Food is expensive here.  In fact everything is expensive.  Prices over all are what we would pay at upscale stores in LA.  The problem is that there are no counterbalancing discount stores, no 99 cent store or Food for Less.  IT is like doing all of our shopping at Nordstroms or Gelsons.  There are no street tacos where we can get a full meal for $5 or less.  Lunch is never less than $10 and dinners stet at $20.  We had gotten spoiled with $2 beens in Mexico.  Here it is $6 to even $10 for a glass a beer at a cafe.  Makes for an expensive “free wifi” session.  All of the computers need to be updated and synced.  We need to download the charts covering the next phase of our journey from here to Fiji.  One of the iPads took a direct hit from a wave and has stopped working.  I track down an Apple store but they can’t do anything for it so we end up buying another mini iPad.  There are our navigation tools and we need to have back ups.  Now we need to download all of the software onto the new one and be sure it is working right.  There is a restaurant with wifi in the marina but the connection is too slow and unreliable to use for these major downloads.  Eventually we discover that the best, fastest wifi is downtown, upstairs in the market.  It really is free.  You don’t even need to buy a cup of coffee, just take a bus ride downtown.  Unfortunately the buses stop running at 5:30 and don’t run on the weekends so we can either work on boat projects or update the computers but not both.  I have finally decided that the buses are used mostly by kids going to school  with the occasional shopper so there is not reason for them to run at night.  Still, little by little, it all gets done and we even manage to get in a few days of sightseeing before it is time to turn in the car and join the Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous organized by Latitude 38 magazine..

Papeete is not a pretty city.  Apparently there was a huge influx of money in the 60s.  Long distance flights became possible and the airport was built.  Filming of Mutiny on the Bounty brought Hollywood money and glamor.  The islands became officially French Polynesia.  Lots of buildings were built, all in the worst of 50s, 60s architectural style.  And then the money dried up and the buildings began to deteriorate.  Hotels became apartment buildings and many were abandoned.  There is a much higher rate of poverty and homelessness here than we have seen on any other island.  For the first time we see lots of graffiti and litter.  Still people seem by and large to be happy and relaxed.  Warm air and warm water, flowers and fresh fruit.  It is hard to get too uptight about anything.

Throughout these islands, and indeed in Mexico too, the American influence is ubiquitous.  Everyone wears t-shirts or tank tops, shorts and flip flops, even to work.  iPhones and iPads are common.  American rock music vies with the Polynesian rhythms.  The French influence is also, naturally, strong.  Every where you see people caring baguettes.  Lunch is most commonly a baguette sandwich. Clothes are more stylish and and better made than in Mexico and the fabrics are much nicer.  I have great fun browsing the fabric shops and barely resist loading up Rhapsody with yards of brightly colored cloth.  Almost everyone seems to have a fairly new French car, Citroens, Renaults, etc.  People start work early and take a long lunch.  Stores close around 4:30 or 5:00.  Very little is open on Saturday and nothing on Sunday.  And then there is the overlay of Polynesian culture with  a love of bright colors and flowers.  It is not uncommon to see women wearing flower wreaths and even men often have a flower tucked behind their ear.  

Food and provisioning

June 22, 2014

food/provisions

One of my favorite things to do when I am in a foreign country, or even in a new part of the States, is to shop.  Not necessarily for the sake of getting more stuff but to see what people use in their homes.  The stores provide a window into the lives of the people who live there.  In Mexico the stores are filled with tortillas, rice, beans, oatmeal, masa, salsas, tostadas.  Many items come in small cans or plastic pouches or even small cardboard cartons.  All wonderful for the larder of 2 cruisers with no refrigeration.  Beer is cheap and plentiful, as is tequila.  Wine is less common and more expensive but still not bad.  Boxes of nice California red or white can be had for about $8.  Lots of Mexican cheeses, chicken, fish, shrimp, squid and other seafood but not so much meat.  While we do not like their pastries or cookies, it is possible to buy processed sandwich bread, Orowheat 7 grain for example, that lasts for weeks as long as it is not opened.  There is a lot of fresh fruit, although much of it is so ripe it needs to be eaten the same day.  Limes are sold by the bag and used with everything but you almost never see lemons.  Small stores everywhere sell household items for just a few dollars.  While I have never found a thrift shop there are often street vendors selling what are obviously used American clothes. 

Arriving in the Marqueses after 37 days, obviously our provisions are low and we are ready for fresh fruit and vegetables..  There is an abundance of fresh fruit, although not so many vegetables.  Pamplemouse is an oversized grapefruit without the bitterness, hard to peal but very sweet.  Bananas are everywhere, several different varieties.  Often restaurants will have bunches of bananas hanging on the front porch for people to help themselves.  The stores feature mostly canned food and frozen meat with a strong French influence.  There is cassoulet, couscous, ratatouille, potted meat, dozens of varieties of pate, pickles and olives and sauerkraut and the ubiquitous baguette.  Baguette sandwiches are popular, filled with barbecue or chicken, french fries are put into the sandwich.  There is even a chou mien sandwich.   Even the smallest islands have freezer cases of meat from New Zealand.

Carrefour is the main supermarket chain, similar to Walmart, selling everything from batteries to milk, huge and brightly lit.  Freezer cases are full of whole legs of lam and what looks like the entire lamb or veal.  Not only pate de foie gras but 1 pound bags of the actually liver to make your own.  New Zealand mussels and clams.  Frozen chicken and duck.  Case after case of fresh beef, pork, veal, mutton and chicken but noticeably less fruit and vegetables.  Most of it imported and quite expensive.  There are lots and lots of canned meals, and fewer dried beans, rice, etc.  There is plenty of granola but oatmeal is almost impossible to find, especially the old fashioned kind.  Coffee is either instant or the pods that fit into fancy machines.  What ground coffee there is, is very find grind, not really suitable for our french press coffee maker.  I eventually get out our stove top expresso pot and enjoy a very strong cup with the  morning baguette.  Very French.  There is, of course, plenty of French wine, most priced at $20 and up for a bottle.  We have been spoiled by “2 buck Chuck” at home.  At these prices on a cruisers budget we no longer polish off an entire bottle with dinner but ration it over several meals.  On the other hand, it is very good wine.   There are 2 brands of beer made in Tahiti and it is possible to get Guinness and Heinekins but if is all about $15 per six pack. 

There are also slabs of fresh red tuna and it is possible to buy quite good sushi in the grocery stores.  On the other hand, there in not a lot of variety of other kinds of seafood.  The piles of clams, squid, shrimp, octopus and smaller fish that were everywhere in Mexico are missing.

Sunday, August 10, 2014

Tahiti and her islands

June 22 2014, Tahiti y son iles

Tahiti and her islands.  The Marquesas were steep volcanic peaks rising abruptly from deep beneath the ocean, covered with greenery and pounded by waves.  The Tuamotos were the remnants of islands, coral atolls surrounding pools of water that once had been islands but have long since sunk back into the ocean they came from.  The Society Islands are the best of both.  Tall peaks with sheer volcanic rock faces and deep bays cutting into the heart of the lush green vegetation, protected from the pounding of the ocean by coral reefs.  Each one different from the others.  All of them stunningly beautiful.  The reefs are sometimes barely there, just a line of whitecaps in the ocean hiding the deadly reefs.  Other times they are marked by pounding waves and great rolling surf.  Still others have become islands themselves, large and firm enough to support luxury hotels with bungalows set on poles over the water.  In some cases it is possible to sail completely around the island inside of the reef. 

Everywhere on the reefs there are fish, colored with the colors of the rainbow moving lazily through crystal clear water.  We swim with them through the warm water, drifting along with the currant over fantastic lumps of coral.  great clams are imbedded in the coral, their lips colored vivid purple or spotted black and white.   Seemingly solid coral is studded with little feathers of pink and purple.  Wave a hand to stir the water and they snap closed, disappearing into the coral, only to reappear again when the danger passes.

All of the anchorages are deep, often 50-60 feet.  In Mexico we thought 35 feet was deep and were often anchored in 15-20 feet.  Now we are glad that we have 300 feet of chain backed up by rope.  While most of the anchorages are sheltered, if the wind shifts it can race through the valleys and down the steep cliffs at 30-40 knots or more.  The water is so clear we can sometimes see clear down to the anchor on the bottom, deep, dark blue in the depths turning to a stunning aqua in the shallows.  The color is so intense that it seems to stain the bottom of the boat. 

There is almost always one road that circles the island and often another that crosses over the top.  Most of the buildings are on the narrow strip of relatively flat land along the edge of the island.  It seems odd to have houses right along the water with no surf, no high tide, no storm waves to worry about.  All of that happens outside of the reef.  This is more like having a house on a lake than on the ocean front.  Almost every house has at least one boat.  At 5:00 every day, suddenly there are outriggers everywhere.  So silently they glide by that you don’t hear them at all.  Sometimes singles, sometimes with a crew of 4 or 5, paddles flashing and dipping silently.  Wonderfully muscled brown backs bending together.

Tahiti Port Captain

June 19, 2014  Tahiti port captain


Entering into the main harbor in Papeete, Tahiti is more complicated that most.   The entrance is not wide and there are fast ferry boats going back and forth to Moorea all day.  There are cruise ships and cargo ships and super yachts going in and out  and there are outrigger canoes all over the place.  The first step is to call Port Control and request permission to enter the harbor.  He will let you know when the cost is clear.  The airport runs right along the edge of the harbor so if you are heading for the Marina Taina to anchor, you need clearance from the airport tower so that the mast is not clipped by a low flying jet.   Call Port Control when you are 5 minutes from the end of the runway.  Standby while he calls the airport control tower and gets clearance . Then follow the buoys very carefully  between the airport and the reef for several miles.   Call Port Control again when you reach the other end of the runway.  Standby again while he checks with the tower again for incoming planes.  Once cleared, proceed quickly past the end of the runway. 

 As we clear the runway and round the corner we see a forest of masts, more boats than we have seen in one place since we left San Diego.  We have arrived at Marina Taina, main stopping place for all of the cruisers in the South Pacific.  There are boats here from all over the world.  It takes several tries but we finally find a spot to anchor and here we are.

Thursday, August 7, 2014

June 21, 2014 Tahiti

June 21, 2014, Tahiti

We have 6 weeks left on our visa and there are 5 islands in the Societies to  explore.  First there are all the practicalities to deal with.  Before anything else, we need to get checked in with the port captain. The next most important project is a new starter switch.  We cannot go anywhere if we cannot get that fixed.   Next is to get the sat phone internet connection working so that we can get weather reports while we are at sea.  We also need to find a sailmaker and get the main sail and the genoa patched. We need to find a good wifi connection and get online to download the next set of charts, from here to Fiji.  We are expecting a couple of packages, one with our new credit cards and one with new parts for the sat phone.  We also need to do something about the dingy motor.  With it’s solar panel not working we need to run the generator for 2 hours just to get the motor charged enough for one trip to shore.  If we forget something, too bad.  it will have to wait until tomorrow.    A lot to get done in just over a week.  July 4 is the race to Moorea and we want to be ready to keep going from there. 


The biggest surprise and our main difficulty here in Marina Taina is transportation.  We are 5 miles out of town.  It is a 15 minute walk to the bus stop.  The big marine chandleries and hardware stores are another 15 minute past the end of the bus line.  Most frustrating is that the buses stop running at 5:30.  This is also the start of the Heiva, a month long festival of music, dance, sports and arts and crafts which also covers Tahiti National Day and Bastille Day.  I have been looking forward to attending the Heiva since Mexico and now I find out that it will cost $40 to get a taxi home.  We finally decide the best answer is to rent a car. for a week.  We can get a car for about the cost of one taxi ride and Alan can run around to hardware stores and get all of the parts that he needs.

Finding a car turns out to be more complicated than expected, of course.  first we need a phone so we can call.  Once we have a local phone, I discover that almost all of the car rental places are sold out.  finally I locate one that will deliver and pick up from the Marina.  After lots of paperwork, we have wheels.  It feels good to be back on the road again, especially for Alan, an LA boy who has been driving since he was 15.  It is 2:00 on Sat by the time the paperwork is done.  We expect that most places will be closed but we head for town to check it out.  As expected most places are closed but at least we find out where they are.  Then we head to the Tahiti Yacht Club and Venus Point. 

From the cruising guides and the map, it looked like the Yacht club might be a better place to anchor but when we finally found it we realized that we are better off where we are.  It is almost as far out of town the other way, is a gritty industrial area and there are NO buses going this way.  After a nice visit and tour of the club, we headed on to Venus Point.  This is where Captain Cook came to observe the transit of venus in the 1770s.  We are a little unclear about what was actually accomplished but it is an “important scientific event”  and we wanted to go there.  It turns out to be a lovely black sand beach and grassy park.  There are a number of monuments around commemorating various historic event and a lovely lighthouse, built years after Captain Cook was here.  No other tourists here, just locals enjoying the warm still waters of the beach.  We had planned to have a beer and watch the sunset but when we tried to buy beer at the local grocery we were told that it was election day and no alcohol was sold.  Interestingly enough, when we got back to the marina that evening, the bar was in full swing.  No election day prohibition here.  Lacking beer, we sliced open a couple of pampelmousse and sat on the beach eating them and getting juice all over ourselves.  After a quick swim to clean off the juice, we head back in the gathering dark.  There is a small hiccup downtown, where the streets have been blocked off for the parade tomorrow.  Eventually we make our way back and opt for pizza and beer at the dingy bar before heading out to the boat.

Tahiti at last

June 20, 2014 Tahiti

Anchored in Tahiti, surrounded by other cruising boats.  Waves crash on the reef about 1/2 mile away.   Moorea is across the channel towards the setting sun.  Every evening there is a different and always beautiful sunset.  Outriggers scoot back and forth, everything from the large 6-8 man teams to single man ones.  The music which echoes over the water in the evening is the lovely rhythms of Tahiti which somehow seem to echo the rhythm of the ocean.    We have to keep reminding ourselves that we are really here.  It does not seem real.  It took 3 years of preparation and 2 years of sailing but here we are.  We can call ourselves real cruisers now. 

Tahiti is a gathering spot.  Everyone needs to clear in with customs/immigration.  Boats are constantly arriving from the other islands as other boats leave.  Everyone has a different deadline on their visa.  I am surprised by how independent everyone is.   I had expected boats to stick together more and  travel in groups.  People discuss their plans with each other and check in of the morning radio net but when it is time to go it is every man for himself.

We are anchored at Marina Taina, which actually caters to the Super Yachts.  There is a line of them along the waterfront, 100 feet long, polished and shinning.  Their booms are longer and thicker than our main mast.  Inside the marina is filled with more ordinary yachts, most of them belonging to locals.  Despite this, we do not find the wealth of shops catering to sailors that we had expected.  There are 2 restaurants and a bar along the waterfront, a small chandlery, a dive shop, clean but cold showers and a laundromat where the machines are  constantly out of order.  Just up the road is a gas station and a surprisingly well stocked grocery store which is open 24 hours.  Up the road a bit farther the other way s the large Carrefour mall with Walmart style supermarket, small clothing stores, electronics/phone store and a cafe with good wifi.

Between the gas station and the grocery is one of the fanciest McDonalds that we have ever seen.  It is set on the waterfront and includes a large lawn with trees and an enclosed swimming area.  the day we were there staff was hosting summer camp type games for the kids.  Yes we ate at McDonalds.  We were ready for lunch ashore and the marina restaurant wanted $25 for a salad so we are at McDonalds.  I am happy to report that both the menu and the prices were the same as the US.  Good old McDonalds.  If you want consistency you can’t beat it.

Rangiroa to Tahiti

June 16, 2014  Rangiroa to Tahiti

It is time to move on.  Yesterday we went to Josephine’s to have a drink and watch the current in the pass.  We consulted with other boats and it was decided that 1:36 was the  perfect time to exit the pass.   Since the anchor chain is wrapped around a large coral head we need  plenty of time to figure out how to get it free and hoisted.  If/when we get it loose we will hook onto a mooring ball until it is time to leave.  The first attempt is with the hookah.  Maybe Alan can swim down and pull it loose.  Unfortunately it is just a little 12v hookah designed for cleaning and inspecting the bottom of the boat and will not reach down to the bottom.  The anchor is at the end of 60 feet of chain so it is not going to be much use.  It does let  Alan get down closer and see exactly what the problem is, however.  Once he sees the scope of the problem he free dives several times and manages to tug it out from under the coral.  He then attaches a second rope to a float and holds onto it from the dingy.  Now I run the windlass  to hoist the anchor, very carefully while he pulls the second line at exactly the correct angle to keep it from re-snagging.  The minute the anchor is loose I run for the tiller, put it in gear and steer over to the mooring ball. Surprisingly, it all goes as planned and we are free. 

 And now we wait.  The starter switch is iffy.  Maybe it will work and maybe it won’t.  We pass the time having lunch and doing odd jobs.   Finally it is time, we should be just on time to exit the pass on the slack tide.  Not sure what we will do it it doesn’t work.  I really don’t want to sail out through the reef without an engine.

Hooray, the engine starts after only a few tries.  This is obviously a high priority project for Tahiti.  Slowly we move out towards the pass, slowly, slowly, watching the waves, watching current and watching the clock.  There is another boat leaving too, just behind us.  The clock says it is time.  The waves on both sides of the pass are relatively calm.  We turn into the channel and head out.  Alan decides that this is it and guns the motor.  I take my position on the bow, looking for hazards.  The current is running with us and we move smoothly out at 7+ knots.  Piece of cake.  Chara is right behind us.  No dolphins today but we give a wave to the people at Josephine’s.  We will see them again in Tahiti or Moorea or somewhere along the way.

out of the pass, no wind

 The main sail is still double reefed to keep it from tearing any further.  The mizzen is also reefed.  Alan has decided that we will play it very safe  and just use the jib and reefed mizzen on this last leg.  The main sail will stay tied down tight.   It may take us longer but hopefully we will reach Tahiti with no further damage. 

we head south along the coast.  It we can head up far enough we can just squeak by the corner of the island, my watch, drifting closer.

Chara goes north, When Alan comes back he decides we are not going to make the corner and we head north, just as Chara heads south, way off in the distance against the setting sun  still no wind

The pass between Rangiroa and Tikehau is only 6 miles wide and there is only one light on the point.  We had originally planned on going all the way around but now that we are underway we are anxious to get to Tahiti as soon as possible so we decide to go through the pass.  There is no moon and it is very dark.  Both atolls are so low that the dadar is not much use.  The Navionics program on our iPad is our bible.  Normally we are fairly casual about following the exact course but not tonight.  Carefully, carefully, watching the chart like a hawk Alan steers us along.  From a very light wind, a gale suddenly springs up and we are flying along at 6 knots.  Luckily the wind is taking us the right direction.  By the time it  is my watch at midnight we are through the pass, the wind has dropped and Alan is ready for bed.  According to the chart there is another atoll off our port side but it is far enough away that it should not be a problem. 

Tuesday is a day of light wind, just coasting along with Fred the autopilot in charge.  According to the computer we should get to Tahiti about dawn on Thursday.  Of course things never go as planned.  About midnight the wind comes up again and this time with rain, rain and more rain.  Once more we are soaking wet and the cabin is draped with wet clothes.  With all this wind of course we make landfall at midnight, not dawn like we had hoped.  Nothing for it but to heave to and go to bed.  As usual, I stand watch with the iPad while Alan sleeps.  The wind is howling and I am really not sleeping.  I stick my head out of the hatch every half hour or so the be sure everything is OK.  According to the iPad we are drifting at about 1knot around in a circle.  We learn the next day that wind gusts of up to 40 knots were reported out here.  When dawn comes we are still pretty much in the same place. Heaving to really works.   And there is Venus Point, Tahiti!!  We made it!

The wind is still blowing but at least the rain has stopped.   The first order of business is to start the engine.  We are still 5 miles out and normally would sail until we are right off the entrance but with such an iffy starter we want to be sure that it is working before we get too close.   Even with the motor on it is slow going.  We seem to be fighting a current as well as the wind.  And then suddenly we are in the lee of the island.  The wind drops and the sun comes out and it is beautiful.

And we are in Tahiti!  We keep looking at each other with big grins.  We can hardly believe that we are here after 50 years of talking about it.  We did it.  We made it.  Sailed to Tahiti in our own boat.

Rangiroa dive trip

June 10, 2014
Rangiroa Dive trip

Time to go diving.  One of the main reasons for stopping in the Tuomotos is for the diving.  There is an all day reef dive that has sen recommended by several other sailors.  Booking the trip is somewhat complicated since it is advertised by the hotel but not actually offered by the hotel but eventually arrangements are made. 

The next morning dawns cloudy and windy, after days of clear, calm weather but the dive boat pulls along side Rhapsody at 7:30 as promised. There are 3 other couples already on board, all of whom speak French.  Leon, the owner/diver,  passes out yellow rain slickers which we are told to put on backwards and off we go, bouncing along with the spray flying and the wind blowing.  Everyone is soaked after just a few minutes despite the raincoats.  We head straight across the atoll and it takes an hour to get to the other side.  There is a period half way across when we cannot see either shore. Although it is not cold, it does not seem like a good day for a dive trip and I am starting to wish we had postponed.  Then, suddenly, we are at the other shore and the wind dies, the clouds go away and it is a perfect day. 

Leon takes us into about 10 feet from the shore and kills the engine.  Everyone takes mask and snorkel and puts on reef walking shoes and one by one we climb out of the boat and head slowly to the shore. The water is incredibly clear and blue, that lovely aqua color that you always see in the pictures, that never seems quite real.  It is real.  It really is that gorgeous blue.  Our little group is accompanied by Leon’s assistant while he takes the boat around the corner to anchor and start setting up lunch. We are at a partial break in the reef.  The water is about 3 feet deep with a white sand scattered with huge mounds of coral.  For the next hour and a half we all just  float along exploring on our own while our “guide” sits on the shore and makes hats out of palm branches.  It is absolutely perfect.  Much nicer than following along in a group, trying to keep together,  while someone tells you what to look at and where to go.  Brightly colored fish are everywhere.  Parrot fish and tangs and tiny iridescent blue ones and black ones with ruffled fins and long skinny ones that look like eels.  Yellow ones and stripped ones and orange and black ones.  One great big fish is actually taking bites out of the coral. Eventually we all straggle out of the water to sit on the warm sand.  There are palm hats for all. 

Next we head across the reef towards the ocean where the landscape changes dramatically.  Here the coral has been blackened by the sun and sculpted into fantastic shapes, towers 6-10 feet tall interspersed with deep pools of warm water and on the other side the ocean waves rolling in.  It seems like we are on an alien planet out of some science fiction movie.  Finally it is time to wade across the channel and along the inside of the reef to where Leonis waiting with the boat and lunch. 

The lunch alone is almost worth the price of the trip.  We are seated at long tables under a palm roof.  at one end is a fire in a steel drum.  One by one, heaping platters of food are set out on the table.  There is cocoanut flat bread, poisson cru, sweet potatoes, barbecued chicken, stewed spinach, and grilled mahi-mahi and cake for dessert, along with bottles of fruit juice.  We eat until we are stuffed and there is still food left.  Turns out the extra food is planned.  Dozens of reef sharks have gathered right up  to the shore in just a foot or two of water.  Chunks of leftover fish are tossed into the water and snapped up in an instant.  We wade among them and actually hold their fins while they are eating. 

Next is a lesson on weaving palm baskets.  Everyone makes one. During the day i have gathered a  large pile of shells.  Now I have something to carry them in.  Once the baskets are done, the area cleaned and the last bits of fish given to the sharks it is time to get back into the boat for the trip back across the lagoon.  Once again yellow rain slickers are handed out and everyone suits up.   Clouds gather, the wind blows and spray flies as we race back. 

Back on the other side, we make one last stop right by the main pass at an area called the aquarium.  The fish here are so thick you could walk on them.  Leon has saved large pieces of bread and everyone gets a chance to feed the fish.  This is almost more of a frenzy than the shark feeding.  The water is deep here and several of us grab mask and snorkel and jump in among the fish.  I make the mistake of jumping in with a piece of bread in my hand.  It is immediately snatched by a bright orange fish, along with a small piece of my finger.  It is amazing to be among so many fish. I am completely surrounded by them.  They swirl around, flowing back and forth with the current, chasing pieces of bread.

Close by are young men in outrigger canoes surfing the swells through the channel.   As we head back several of them turn and follow us along, surfing in the wake from the boat.  All to soon we are back at Rhapsody, tired, wet and happy with a basket full of shells.