July 21, 2015 Sunday Blue Lagoon to Somosomo
It is a beautiful day for our short motor down to Somosomo Bay. Tis time we are the only boat in the bay. It is Sunday night and we can hear loud music and preaching from shore. Apparently there is a revival service going on. i am sorry to miss it but I am not feeling too well, just a slightly queasy stomach, so we just stay on board and enjoy the music from a distance. Next morning we headed into the village. This is the first time that we have been to this village some take a bundle of kava root for the chief. As usual, there were people on the beach to welcome us and guide us to the chief. Surprisingly, this time the chief is a woman. First time we have encountered a woman chief. We were received in the main room of her house where she was seated on a mattress on the floor, covered with brightly colored fabric. On the wall behind her was an extraordinary tapa cloth, about 10 feet square, covered with intricate patterns. While I have seen some tapa cloth in the tourist stores, this is the first time I have actually seen one being used in a home. We learned that she had made it herself. She was a delightful old woman, looked to be about 80years old, full of questions about where we were from an what we thought of Fiji. She had a guest book for us to sign which stated that we were expected to give $10 for the general village fund. Unfortunately we had not brought any cash with us, not expecting to need any. We were offered pieces of breadfruit to eat. and then told that it was time for us to leave because she was going to have lunch.
Our guide for the village tour turned out to be from the mainland His mother and father had separated years ago and he had been living with his grandmother on the mainland and going to school. He was just here to visit his father and had been pressed into tour guide duty. It is not uncommon for the children from the islands to be sent to the mainland to live with relatives and go to school. Many of them never get back.
This village was distinguished by large numbers of solar panels. Every house had a tall metal pole with the panels mounted on top. We learned that three of the seven villages on Naviti now have extensive solar arrays. The government paid half of the cost and the village raised the rest. Little by little they intend to get solar to all the villages. It was altogether a very neat, tidy village, somehow seeming more prosperous than some of the ones we have seen.
Once we were through with the tour we wandered down the beach where we came across a small backpacker resort. The staff were having lunch while the young people played games and laughed and flirted and did all those things that teenagers do when they are out on their own. We were invited to sit down and join the staff for lunch, tuna mixed with chopped cucumbers and onions dressed with cocoanut cream. As we chatted about life in the village I asked if it was possible to find clams along the shore. Shortly I found myself following one of the women out into the water to see what we could find. Other times when I have dug for clams, I have looked for soft mud, then shuffled my feet along until I felt the rounded shape of the clam with my toes. This time, we walked along in an inch or two of water over hard sand and rock. My guide carries a long knife and studied the sand carefully. From time to time, the knife would shoot down and then be raised up with a clam clinging to the tip. She was seeing just the edge of the shell buried in the sand. When she slid her knife into the opening, the clam snapped shut and was caught on the knife blade. Try as I might, I could not see them. I only found one the whole time we were out, but we came back with a large bag full. Dinner that night was bouillabaisse using the clams, a small fish that swam into the crab trap and a lobster sold to us by a couple of young men who cam by in a boat
When it was time to go, the ladies asked if they could come see the boat, so of course we said yes. They were charmed and amazed to see how compact it is. When Alan ran them ashore again, he got involved in helping to fix the school boat that takes the kids from this village to the next for school every day. And then the men wanted to know if we had any fish hooks. I was glad to share since I almost never use anything but the cedar plug for trolling. All in all, we left Somosomo the next day feeling like we had been adopted into the village.
Monday, August 24, 2015
July 20, 2015 Blue Lagoon 2
July 20, 2015 Blue lagoon, part 2
All in all, we spent more than 2 weeks in Blue Lagoon. Some days hiking or snorkling. Some days hanging out on the boat. The weather was OK, not clear and hot but not too windy most of the time. We had one night of rain. I have to keep reminding myself that it is winter here. The cruise boat came in and tied up to a cocoanut tree. Passengers came ashore for a dinner and show. After a couple of days they left. Next week they were back again. Seaplanes, helicopters, ferry boats and supply boats come and go. Cruisers came and went. Our little fleet broke up with the other two boats heading off in different directions while we decided to stay longer. A number of boats from the ICA, Island Cruising Association in New Zealand arrived and anchored close to us. New Zealand is so close that cruisers come up here for a month or two every year. It is a different style of cruising when you are just out for a few months. Even though there is a long and potentially rough passage involved, it is not the same as being on the way for several years.
Work on Nanuya Resort continues , with more progress every day. They are planning on putting in 25 mooring boys as soon as they get permission from everyone. I expect we will find it all changed if we get back again. One night a week they offer the traditional pig roast feast and floor show. We were spoiled by the professional quality of dancing in The Societies and these, while charming, have a much more down home flavor.
Finally we decide that it is time to leave. There is a reasonably good weather window to head south, back to Lautoka where we can stock up on supplies again. Rhapsody is allowed to stay in Fiji for 18 months, with no renewal. Her time will be up March 15 next year. That is still within the potential for cyclones so we have decided that we will head up to Savusavu, check out of the country and go north about 250 miles to the next country, Wallis/Futuna. We have friends who went there and they say it is charming. Two islands owned by the French which means good bread and pastries. Once we have checked in there we can come back to Fiji and have another 18 months before we have to leave. This will give us time to explore the other side of Fiji before we head on, wherever our trip takes us next. If we get going now we can be back in time for the Musket Cove Regatta, early in September.
All in all, we spent more than 2 weeks in Blue Lagoon. Some days hiking or snorkling. Some days hanging out on the boat. The weather was OK, not clear and hot but not too windy most of the time. We had one night of rain. I have to keep reminding myself that it is winter here. The cruise boat came in and tied up to a cocoanut tree. Passengers came ashore for a dinner and show. After a couple of days they left. Next week they were back again. Seaplanes, helicopters, ferry boats and supply boats come and go. Cruisers came and went. Our little fleet broke up with the other two boats heading off in different directions while we decided to stay longer. A number of boats from the ICA, Island Cruising Association in New Zealand arrived and anchored close to us. New Zealand is so close that cruisers come up here for a month or two every year. It is a different style of cruising when you are just out for a few months. Even though there is a long and potentially rough passage involved, it is not the same as being on the way for several years.
Work on Nanuya Resort continues , with more progress every day. They are planning on putting in 25 mooring boys as soon as they get permission from everyone. I expect we will find it all changed if we get back again. One night a week they offer the traditional pig roast feast and floor show. We were spoiled by the professional quality of dancing in The Societies and these, while charming, have a much more down home flavor.
Finally we decide that it is time to leave. There is a reasonably good weather window to head south, back to Lautoka where we can stock up on supplies again. Rhapsody is allowed to stay in Fiji for 18 months, with no renewal. Her time will be up March 15 next year. That is still within the potential for cyclones so we have decided that we will head up to Savusavu, check out of the country and go north about 250 miles to the next country, Wallis/Futuna. We have friends who went there and they say it is charming. Two islands owned by the French which means good bread and pastries. Once we have checked in there we can come back to Fiji and have another 18 months before we have to leave. This will give us time to explore the other side of Fiji before we head on, wherever our trip takes us next. If we get going now we can be back in time for the Musket Cove Regatta, early in September.
July 7, 2015 Blue Lagoon, Coral View Resort
I took my charts into the bar and asked the staff and locals for recommendations of places to go. Oe of the places suggested was Coral View Resort, just across the Lagoon and out on the point. Among other things, it was said to have a market where we could get bread and eggs. So next time we got a clear and not too windy morning we headed off to see what we could find. The trip, of course, had us bouncing over waves and threading our way through reefs. Eventually we rounded a point and saw a cluster of buildings and a breakwater. The channel was barely 4 feet wide and not much deeper but inside was a lovely sandy beach with a couple of shore boats drawn up. Steps led up from the beach to a wide wooden veranda built around a couple of large trees. There was a dive shop, a large dining area and kitchen and the market. wonder of wonders, they even served cappuccino and muffins for $2.50 each. Of course, we had an elevenses. What a wonderful, peaceful spot. There are a number of lovely cottages scattered around the tree shaded ground. The guests are young backpackers from a variety of countries. The staff as friendly as everyone in Fiji always is. We were surprised when one of them addressed us by name and said he had recognized George (our dingy) Turns out he works part of the time in Vuda and remembered us from there. We spent several hours sleeping on the beach, collecting shells. Turns out this is a nursery and sanctuary for giant clams. We had not brought our snorkel gear with us so we will have to come back again to see them. Just after lunch an shore boat turned up and the backpackers shouldered their packs and waded through the surf and climbed aboard as the staff sang the traditional leaving song, isa lei. We stocked up on groceries and headed back in the afternoon.
On our second trip we arrive at high tide and quickly don our snorkel gear and head out to find the giant clams. We drift along over beautiful, multicolored coral with scores of bright colorful fish. And then suddenly there are the clams. They are huge, al least 6 feet across. The flesh is studded with bright florescent spots, green, blue, purple. In the center of each is a round dark opening that looks like and eye. Actually it is a mouth but it is hard to escape the feeling that they are watching us. After an hour or so we swam back to shore and had pizza, hamburger and cold beer for lunch. As we were relaxing after lunch a larger shore boat arrived and anchored just outside of the breakwater. This was the supply ship bring provisions for the store and the kitchen. The smaller boats went out to meet it and soon were ferrying bags and boxes and crates of groceries ashore. They would load up the small boats and bring them into the beach where the staff formed a chain and carried them up into the beck to be inventoried. It was all done with lots of good humor and teasing. Not hurried but moving steadily it took over an hour to get everything off. Alan and I sat in the shade and ate ice cream and watched. When they were all done, we moved into the store to make our purchases, loaded up George and headed back to Rhapsody. A lovely, lovely place, one of our favorite places in Fiji.
I took my charts into the bar and asked the staff and locals for recommendations of places to go. Oe of the places suggested was Coral View Resort, just across the Lagoon and out on the point. Among other things, it was said to have a market where we could get bread and eggs. So next time we got a clear and not too windy morning we headed off to see what we could find. The trip, of course, had us bouncing over waves and threading our way through reefs. Eventually we rounded a point and saw a cluster of buildings and a breakwater. The channel was barely 4 feet wide and not much deeper but inside was a lovely sandy beach with a couple of shore boats drawn up. Steps led up from the beach to a wide wooden veranda built around a couple of large trees. There was a dive shop, a large dining area and kitchen and the market. wonder of wonders, they even served cappuccino and muffins for $2.50 each. Of course, we had an elevenses. What a wonderful, peaceful spot. There are a number of lovely cottages scattered around the tree shaded ground. The guests are young backpackers from a variety of countries. The staff as friendly as everyone in Fiji always is. We were surprised when one of them addressed us by name and said he had recognized George (our dingy) Turns out he works part of the time in Vuda and remembered us from there. We spent several hours sleeping on the beach, collecting shells. Turns out this is a nursery and sanctuary for giant clams. We had not brought our snorkel gear with us so we will have to come back again to see them. Just after lunch an shore boat turned up and the backpackers shouldered their packs and waded through the surf and climbed aboard as the staff sang the traditional leaving song, isa lei. We stocked up on groceries and headed back in the afternoon.
On our second trip we arrive at high tide and quickly don our snorkel gear and head out to find the giant clams. We drift along over beautiful, multicolored coral with scores of bright colorful fish. And then suddenly there are the clams. They are huge, al least 6 feet across. The flesh is studded with bright florescent spots, green, blue, purple. In the center of each is a round dark opening that looks like and eye. Actually it is a mouth but it is hard to escape the feeling that they are watching us. After an hour or so we swam back to shore and had pizza, hamburger and cold beer for lunch. As we were relaxing after lunch a larger shore boat arrived and anchored just outside of the breakwater. This was the supply ship bring provisions for the store and the kitchen. The smaller boats went out to meet it and soon were ferrying bags and boxes and crates of groceries ashore. They would load up the small boats and bring them into the beach where the staff formed a chain and carried them up into the beck to be inventoried. It was all done with lots of good humor and teasing. Not hurried but moving steadily it took over an hour to get everything off. Alan and I sat in the shade and ate ice cream and watched. When they were all done, we moved into the store to make our purchases, loaded up George and headed back to Rhapsody. A lovely, lovely place, one of our favorite places in Fiji.
July 4, 2015 Naviti to Blue Lagoon
For the last time we are up early and underway by 8am. This is another day of weaving inside of the reefs and there is much radio chatter about just exactly where the shallow spots are. No one’s charts seem to agree. I finally get out the maps that I got from the Land Commission Office in Lautoka. My theory is that these are the official government maps having to do with ownership of the land and in Fiji the village owns the reef, unlike the US where ownership stops at the high tide line. Sure enough, they are remarkably well detailed. No depths are shown but you can see every reef. Finally, we are through the reefs, around a large rock and iinto a lovely sheltered bay between several islands. The wind drops, the sun comes out. We weave our way around still more reefs and drop anchor just off of a new resort, once again in 50 feet of water. Finally we get to relax. We are staying here for at least a week
This turns out to be a charming resort, very friendly and welcoming. A dozen or so bures for guests, a restaurant and a waterside bar with cold beer at reasonable prices and 2 large TVs where the staff gather to watch rugby and wonderful hot showers. Apparently there is a new owner and work is going on apace. A concrete launch ramp is being put in, gardens planted, lights put in, a farm established on the hills. Every day there is noticeable progress. The more we learn the more we are impressed. There is a massive solar array on the top of the hill. and also a large water desalination plant. They have a glass crusher and all of the bottles are pulverized and mixed with the cement. When they are through with all the cement work, the ground glass sand will be added to the reefs. Food waste is taken home by employees and fed to the pigs and chickens. Paper is burned. I did not find out what they do with metal but I expect that have that covered. This is the way all resorts should be built.
On the other side of the island is a backpacker resort and a number of the backpackers showed up on our side of the hill for a cold beer and hot shower. Eventually we walked over to investigate. Basic huts are scattered along the beach. There is no hot water and no electricity One building hosts a large dining hall where commercial meals are served. The one consistency is the friendly people. Everyone knows everyone else and they all keep an eye on visitors. We were greeted warmly and given a tour and a bag of fruit to take with us. One of the island dogs escorted us on our walk home, checking to be sure we were going the right way.
A neighboring island is not quite so friendly. Posted signs proclaim “Private Property, No Trespassing” Apparently this is Turtle Island, the playground of the rich and famous, very private and exclusive. From time to time helicopters and seaplanes arrived and departed. We had been out exploring in the dingy and missed the signs when we landed on the beach, but before too long security guards showed up and invited us to leave. Not important. There are plenty of other beaches to explore. Just at the end of our island in another private beach belonging to Blue Lagoon Cruise Lines. This sign is much friendlier and says to leave the beach clear for the cruise guests when the ship is anchored there and otherwise to enjoy respectfully. The reef here is teaming with colorful fish. I think they must feed them to be sure that the tourists have a rich snorkeling experience
The first several days here are cloudy and windy, and we just stay on the boat but eventually the weather clears a little. We had heard that there is a farm here somewhere, where we can buy fresh produce. After 2 weeks cruising we are out of everything, so when the wind finally lets up we head off to see if we can find it. It is a long, wet dingy ride across the lagoon, through the reefs, around the point and up into a deep sheltered bay. Our directions were to go to the head of the bay at high tide and head up the river into the mangroves. Sure enough, there we a narrow opening and a shallow, muddy river winding inland. At the head of the river is a lovely sailing dingy which turns out to belong to the owner of the farm.
The farm itself is delightful. Several acres scattered over the hill, linked by winding paths. We follow the farmer from plot to plot as he harvests our groceries. We get lettuce, tomatoes, cassava, papaya, bananas, basil, cilantro, green onions, boo choy, The bananas are actually plantains because we have learned that they last much longer than regular bananas. Even when the outsides turn black the inside is firm and tasty. I had intended to get just a hand but Alan decides that we should take the whole stalk. We eat bananas constantly for the next month. The lettuce and cilantro and green onions have their roots left on so when we get back to the boat I fill a baking pan with water and start a mini hydroponic farm on board. The lettuce and onions last for 2 weeks. The cilantro does not do so well so I decide to have chili and tortillas for dinner the next night and use it all up. It is impossible to get corn tortillas here but I have masa and my tortilla press from Mexico.
When we are finished at the farm we spend some time exploring the bay. There is a charming backpacker resort and a large school. Interestingly, the school is owned and staffed by the catholic church but paid for by the government. Several places around the bay I notice piles of clam shells and cockles are listed on the menu at the backpacker resort so we decide to come back at low tide to try our luck. Although there have been clam shells on the beaches every where, this is the first time I have seen that they are actually dug for food. Several times before I have showed the shells to the locals and asked if they were good to eat and have been met with blank stares or head shakes so it is great to know that at least here they do eat them.
We watch the weather and the tides carefully for the next few days and finally make our way back. Once more it is a wet ride. By now I have learned to wear my frog jacket to keep dry. It is not cold but it is nicer not to arrive soaking wet. The tide is out this time so instead of going right up onto shore like we did on our last trip, we anchor the dingy several hundred yards off shore and walk over the mud flats to where a young fijan woman and her little boy are collecting clams. The clams are thick, lying on top of the mud or just slightly buried. When I ask if it is OK to collect them, she begins giving me handfuls from her basket. Before long I have a bag full of little clams, about as big as a quarter. That night we make clam chowder. It takes forever to clean them and pick the meat out but the results are wonderful. Alan declares it not quite as good as the legendary Canon Beach chowder, but quite delicious.
For the last time we are up early and underway by 8am. This is another day of weaving inside of the reefs and there is much radio chatter about just exactly where the shallow spots are. No one’s charts seem to agree. I finally get out the maps that I got from the Land Commission Office in Lautoka. My theory is that these are the official government maps having to do with ownership of the land and in Fiji the village owns the reef, unlike the US where ownership stops at the high tide line. Sure enough, they are remarkably well detailed. No depths are shown but you can see every reef. Finally, we are through the reefs, around a large rock and iinto a lovely sheltered bay between several islands. The wind drops, the sun comes out. We weave our way around still more reefs and drop anchor just off of a new resort, once again in 50 feet of water. Finally we get to relax. We are staying here for at least a week
This turns out to be a charming resort, very friendly and welcoming. A dozen or so bures for guests, a restaurant and a waterside bar with cold beer at reasonable prices and 2 large TVs where the staff gather to watch rugby and wonderful hot showers. Apparently there is a new owner and work is going on apace. A concrete launch ramp is being put in, gardens planted, lights put in, a farm established on the hills. Every day there is noticeable progress. The more we learn the more we are impressed. There is a massive solar array on the top of the hill. and also a large water desalination plant. They have a glass crusher and all of the bottles are pulverized and mixed with the cement. When they are through with all the cement work, the ground glass sand will be added to the reefs. Food waste is taken home by employees and fed to the pigs and chickens. Paper is burned. I did not find out what they do with metal but I expect that have that covered. This is the way all resorts should be built.
On the other side of the island is a backpacker resort and a number of the backpackers showed up on our side of the hill for a cold beer and hot shower. Eventually we walked over to investigate. Basic huts are scattered along the beach. There is no hot water and no electricity One building hosts a large dining hall where commercial meals are served. The one consistency is the friendly people. Everyone knows everyone else and they all keep an eye on visitors. We were greeted warmly and given a tour and a bag of fruit to take with us. One of the island dogs escorted us on our walk home, checking to be sure we were going the right way.
A neighboring island is not quite so friendly. Posted signs proclaim “Private Property, No Trespassing” Apparently this is Turtle Island, the playground of the rich and famous, very private and exclusive. From time to time helicopters and seaplanes arrived and departed. We had been out exploring in the dingy and missed the signs when we landed on the beach, but before too long security guards showed up and invited us to leave. Not important. There are plenty of other beaches to explore. Just at the end of our island in another private beach belonging to Blue Lagoon Cruise Lines. This sign is much friendlier and says to leave the beach clear for the cruise guests when the ship is anchored there and otherwise to enjoy respectfully. The reef here is teaming with colorful fish. I think they must feed them to be sure that the tourists have a rich snorkeling experience
The first several days here are cloudy and windy, and we just stay on the boat but eventually the weather clears a little. We had heard that there is a farm here somewhere, where we can buy fresh produce. After 2 weeks cruising we are out of everything, so when the wind finally lets up we head off to see if we can find it. It is a long, wet dingy ride across the lagoon, through the reefs, around the point and up into a deep sheltered bay. Our directions were to go to the head of the bay at high tide and head up the river into the mangroves. Sure enough, there we a narrow opening and a shallow, muddy river winding inland. At the head of the river is a lovely sailing dingy which turns out to belong to the owner of the farm.
The farm itself is delightful. Several acres scattered over the hill, linked by winding paths. We follow the farmer from plot to plot as he harvests our groceries. We get lettuce, tomatoes, cassava, papaya, bananas, basil, cilantro, green onions, boo choy, The bananas are actually plantains because we have learned that they last much longer than regular bananas. Even when the outsides turn black the inside is firm and tasty. I had intended to get just a hand but Alan decides that we should take the whole stalk. We eat bananas constantly for the next month. The lettuce and cilantro and green onions have their roots left on so when we get back to the boat I fill a baking pan with water and start a mini hydroponic farm on board. The lettuce and onions last for 2 weeks. The cilantro does not do so well so I decide to have chili and tortillas for dinner the next night and use it all up. It is impossible to get corn tortillas here but I have masa and my tortilla press from Mexico.
When we are finished at the farm we spend some time exploring the bay. There is a charming backpacker resort and a large school. Interestingly, the school is owned and staffed by the catholic church but paid for by the government. Several places around the bay I notice piles of clam shells and cockles are listed on the menu at the backpacker resort so we decide to come back at low tide to try our luck. Although there have been clam shells on the beaches every where, this is the first time I have seen that they are actually dug for food. Several times before I have showed the shells to the locals and asked if they were good to eat and have been met with blank stares or head shakes so it is great to know that at least here they do eat them.
We watch the weather and the tides carefully for the next few days and finally make our way back. Once more it is a wet ride. By now I have learned to wear my frog jacket to keep dry. It is not cold but it is nicer not to arrive soaking wet. The tide is out this time so instead of going right up onto shore like we did on our last trip, we anchor the dingy several hundred yards off shore and walk over the mud flats to where a young fijan woman and her little boy are collecting clams. The clams are thick, lying on top of the mud or just slightly buried. When I ask if it is OK to collect them, she begins giving me handfuls from her basket. Before long I have a bag full of little clams, about as big as a quarter. That night we make clam chowder. It takes forever to clean them and pick the meat out but the results are wonderful. Alan declares it not quite as good as the legendary Canon Beach chowder, but quite delicious.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)