Sunday, January 28, 2018

Indian wedding. Engagement Party

 Way back last June I was invited by my hairdresser to attend the engagement party of her nephew. There have been a number of engagement parties at the marina but none where we were actually invited guests so we were looking forward to it.

The party was held in  a community hall in the hills above Lautoka.  We had the name of the area (the Rifle Club) and a phone number but no actual address.  They just do not use addresses here and are lousy at giving directions.  Our taxi driver  set out as if he knew exactly where to go and then admitted he really had no idea where we were going.  Lucky we had that phone number.  After repeated phone calls and several dirt roads he  managed to get us to the right place.  We had been invited for 7:00 and it was now 7:45 but this is Fiji so nothing had really happened yet.  Luckily I had decided to wear the lovely Indian dress that I bought for Chris’ wedding.  The women were all dressed in the most magnificent saris in brilliant colors, covered in jewels, dramatic make up, high healed shoes.  The men were a different story.  Except for the grooms family, they were mostly wearing t-shirts and sandals.  Women were seated in rows of chairs set up theater style while the men gathered at the back of the room to drink kava. 
The happy couple finally arrived to the music of horns and drums and were escorted to the front of the room by dancing women and seated under an elaborate canopy.  The Indian music actually reminds me of Scottish bagpipes. There followed a long and to us incomprehensible ceremony with chanting from the priest and speeches from dozens of men.  At one point a woman read the familiar English wedding vows and rings were exchanged but this was still just the engagement and the wedding would not be for 6 more months. 

Eventually young men passed down the rows of seats handing out Indian sweets  Even though the speeches were still going on, the women began moving to the side of the room where food was being served.  The dining set up was interesting.  There were long planks set up along the wall, one about knee level and another a few feet higher, two sets of planks with a three foot space between them.   We seated ourselves on the lower plank and used the upper plank as a table.  Servers, all men, passed up and down between the rows of plank tables, handing out plates and serving food; curry, rice pilau, cabbage salad, dahl, chutney, roti.  There were no utensils, everyone ate with their fingers using bits of roti to pick up the food.  This worked OK with the larger bits but not so well with the dahl and I ran out of roti long before the food was gone.  The other women managed to look elegant as they scooped up the food with manicured nails and bangles on their wrists.  I soon had food all over my hands and had used up the one small napkin provided.  Luckily the servers returned offering extra roti.  As each person finished, servers passed by to collect the plates and offer a bowl of water to wash sticky fingers.  As the first group finished eating and went back to their seats, more people took their place and the serving began again.  Eventually some of the men joined in but not all of them. 
 
Meanwhile the speeches continued, eventually segueing into a DJ who ramped up the volume on the sound system and introduced the dancers, pure Bollywood.  Alan and I decided that it was time to go.  The music was way too loud and not really our style and it looked like the party was going to continue until the wee hours. 









Indian Wedding Day 2 of 3

We had not expected to be here for the wedding in December, but here we are so when the invitation was extended again I accepted gladly.  The first event was head at the groom’s father’s house and the invitation was to come for a family dinner.  When we arrived it was obvious it was not just a family dinner but a full out event, complete with canopies, rows of chairs, a dining area, etc .  Once again it was up in the hills  The directions given were to turn at the new grocery store that is not open yet and then go just a little father and it is right there.  “Ask anyone for the house of Vijay’s hair salon.”  Numerous dirt roads, wrong turns and phone calls later we arrived at a lovely home on top of the hills.  And once again we were early, very early,  No one was there except two older men sitting on the porch talking in Hindi.  After some confusion about who we were and how we had been invited, they were delighted to share family stories with us.  They turned out to be the grandfather and uncle of the groom.  Their family had come here, actually been brought here, in the 1870s to work on the sugar cane fields.  They were not slaves but very close to it.  Little by little they managed to save some money and start businesses but Indians were not allowed to own land until very recently.  The fact that they now have a big beautiful house in the hills and enough money to throw an extravagant wedding was a point of pride.   Indians and Fijians by and large live in separate communities and have separate rituals and life styles.  There is bad mouthing between the two groups:  “Fijians are all ……”. “Indians are …” but no outright hostility   Mostly it is live and let live.

Little by little I have been piecing together the details of Indian weddings.  The first night the bride and groom’s family each hold a family dinner.  Night 2, the one we were invited to is a. night of preparation and dedication.  Again the two families are separate.  Night 3 is the actual wedding.  So here we were at night 2.  As before, the women are dressed to the hilt and sit in the front rows.  The men are much more casual and sit in the back and doing kava.  Alan joined the men in the back and they went through several basins of kava before the nigh was over.  The groom came forward, escorted by several family members, one of whom carried a shrine of Vishnu. They processed around the canopy several times, stopping at each corner.  Then the groom was seated and the various family members approached and rubbed his face and arms with a white paste, touched his head with oil and gave him a belt leaf.  When this ceremony was over they all processed back into the house. 

People relaxed and chit chatted.  And then a   little while later the horns wailed and the drums pounded and the whole ritual was repeated with different participants and with the groom wearing a different shirt.  I lost track of how many times this happened but I am sure it was over a dozen.  I found out later that he was trying on and displaying all of the new clothes that had been given to him.  Apparently the same thing was happening at the bride’s house at the same time with saris rather than shirts.  One of the frustrating things was that whenever I asked the people around me what was happening and what it all meant I was met with blank stares and told it was tradition.  Alan fared better.  He was seated next to a teacher who was delighted to fill him in on all the ritual.  Apparently the groom is considered to be the embodiment of Vishnu from tonight until after the wedding.  Unfortunately Alan is not as interested in this stuff as I am so there are still a lot of gaps that tI need to sort out.

Eventually it was announced that food was ready and the women began moving towards the long plank serving area.  Speeches continued and the DJ was setting up.   We decided it was time to go.  We had told our taxi driver that we would call him about 10:00 so he should have been waiting for our call to come get us but the phone rang and rang with no answer.  I finally tracked down our hostess and told her our plight.  She got her husband who found a buddy with a car and they took us back to the marina, drinking beer all the way.





Indian Wedding Day 3.  Wedding

Finally the actual wedding day.  This event was held back at the community hall at the Rifle Club where the engagement party was held.  After our abandonment by last night’s taxi driver we decided to track down Ali, our driver from the engagement party, on the theory that he knew where the place was.  Turns out he was on vacation but when I called him he said he would be happy to take us.  Actually he sent his son to pick up up and take us to his house where we transferred to his car.  Turned out he was also going to a wedding tonight but he could easily drop us and pick us up again.  It is a very small community in Fiji. 

All the elements were the same; women in the front, men in the back, planks for serving food along the side, an elaborate canopy on the stage.  This ceremony was much more religious and even more incomprehensible.  It seemed to go on forever with much chanting and singing by two priests in elaborate costumes.  Lots of processing and bowing and offerings to the gods.  Several time coconuts were split in half with a single stroke of a machete.  The bride and the groom each gave their seven vows.  And of course speeches and music and dancing.  Our taxi driver arrived when summoned and deposited us back at the marina before returning to his family wedding.

Friday, January 19, 2018

We spent a little over a week in Denerau and it rained every day.  Some days it was a light drizzle and some days it was a downpour.  Sometimes we just stayed on the boat and sometimes we waited it out ashore.  We had two little awnings up over the hatches but even so, everything was damp.  Capt Jack’s litter box flooded and had to be dumped overboard.  Luckily I had a spare bag of litter.  Several times the dingy filled up almost to the top and had to be bailed.  And then came the ultimate gully washer.

I had decided to take advantage of a break in the rain to get the laundry done.  I rounded up the dirty clothes, soap and a book and had Alan row me ashore  The washing machines here are better and cheaper than the ones at Vuda.  You actually get hot water without paying extra for it.   A couple of hours later everything was sparkling clean, dry and folded.  I called Alan to pick me up.  We put the clean laundry in the dingy and then Alan said that he needed to go talk to the electrician.  Just as we headed back to the dock the sky opened and the rain came pouring down in buckets.  We ducked into the closest restaurant as the staff struggled to roll down the storm screens.  All I could think of was my nice clean, dry laundry and the book that I had been reading which was in the laundry basket. The minute there was a break we ran for the dock, grabbed the laundry, and my book, and made another dash for the closest restaurant.  A glance at the sky had made it clear that we did not have time to row back to the boat.      

The wind and rain continued for over an hour while we sat at Cardo’s Restaurant and drank draft Fiji Bitter and ate taro chips with the bag of damp laundry by our feet.  By the time it was over the marina office was closed and I did not have any more laundry tokens so we rowed back to the boat.  Once again, the inside of Rhapsody was festooned with damp clothes hanging from every hook.  When I went to put them away the next day I discovered that the closet had a leak so all of those clothes were damp.  Guess I will just wait until we get back to Vuda and hang them all out on the line, if the rain ever stops.

Sunday, January 14, 2018

Dec 2017, End of the year

December 2017

Vuda Marina

Little by little everyone is leaving Vuda.  Some put their boats in a cyclone pit and fly off to visit friends and family for the cyclone season.  Some grab a last weather window and set sail for New Zealand.  Some have gone to Denerau, Lautoka Musket Cove or Savusavu where the docking/mooring fees are less and anchoring is free.  By the middle of the month there are only a few of us left here.  The weather is actually lovely.  Clouds , wind and frequent showers keep it cool enough that we actually need a sheet at night.  One fan keeps us cool during the day.

I started last May provisioning Rhapsody for what I thought was going to be our trip to Hawaii.  Since we never left we have all of those provisions, so I have decided no shopping until everything is used up.  Little by little the cupboards are emptying but it is still going to take some time to finish it all.  We have had some interesting and unexpected meals but by and large it looks like I did a good job with the provisioning.  Towards the end of the month I started adding a few fresh vegetables and meat.  Now that we are back in the marina we can freeze our jugs of water and keep the ice box cool if not cold. By the beginning of Jan we still had food left and our monthly expenses for food the last 2 months are about $150 US. 

None of our main projects have gotten very far and now are completely stalled for the holidays.  The water maker, generator problem remains unresolved.  It seems like we need to buy a new American generator.  I think we should wait until we get to American Samoa.  We know we can make it that far on what we can carry.  Alan wants to take care of it now to be sure that there is not something else wrong. 

The SSB radio receives but does not transmit.  We finally made email contact with the Pacific Seafarers Net and between us decided that we need to replace the wide copper strip antenna that had been damaged.  Alan installed a new KISS antenna last year and we give up on the copper strip and allowed it to fall apart but the radio no longer works so we think we need put  the old antenna back.  Rhapsody came with a long strip of copper that has been kicking around all this time so we will use it to replace the workout one.  Unfortunately, it is about 10 feet too short.  Where on earth are we going to find a strip of copper about 3” wide and 10” long in Fiji?

The third must do job is the solar panels.  We have 2 small panels that work well but just sit on the deck.  We really need to install them more permanently. Alan talked to Yacht Help about replacing the cable life lines with rigid stainless steal ones.  We should hear back in a few weeks, after the holidays. 

Our Christmas this year was very quiet. The weather continue cloudy and windy as a low trough move past.  I made a roast beef dinner for Christmas Eve and we went to the restaurant for brunch on Christmas Day.   They do not have mimosas on the menu but they do offer champagne and orange juice so I ordered a glass of each and we made our own.  The highlight of the day was a long FaceTime call home to watch the family open presents.  So glad the technology exists to allow us to see each other halfway around the world.  Seeing everyone together, so happy makes it easier to continue this far flung adventure of ours. 

Dec 1, 2017 Back in Vuda

Dec 1, 2017. Back in Vuda Marina.

So we are back after two months and created like long lost friends by the staff.  I had emailed several days earlier and we were expected.  Our old slip was waiting but we actually decided to move a little bit further along, next to High Aspect.  High Aspect is a beautiful 70’ charter sailboat and they pay for an extra slip so that they will not have anyone banging into them.  This means we also will not have and one banging into us.  Lots of room between us to launch the dingy and no way for Jack Sparrow to jump onto the boat next door.  The other side of us is an equally large but not nearly so beautiful boat from Russia.  It has been tied up in the same spot for 2 years with no one aboard so we do not have to worry about noisy neighbors on that side either.

Almost all of our friends from last year have left, either taken their boats away for cyclone or put the boat in a pit and flown off to visit friends.  It is very quiet here.  Also very hot and buggy.  First order of business is to put away the blankets what we had gotten out for cruising and put up the big sun awning.  Second is a trop to town to buy a fan, a  new hose and some fresh vegetables and meat.  Now that we are back I the marina we can start putting our water jugs in their freezer and once again have a cool ice box.

One of my first projects now that we are back and plugged into shore power is to replace the plastic cover on our mattress. It has several tears and the sticking is coming apart on one side.    Obviously it is a project that should be done all in one day so we can sleep on it at night.  I tracked down some shower curtain material in town, planned carefully, cut and pinned everything.  When I was all ready to stitch I hauled the mattress out onto the roof of the cabin where I can get to it and proceeded to remove the old cover.  I hauled my sewing machine out and set it up, ready to get to work and it would not run.  It is a nice new Mexican Singer machine given to me by our friends on Mary Madeline when they sold their boat.  Unlike every other sewing machine I have ever had it is not set up for personal maintenance.  It does not come apart easily.  Some areas are impossible to get to and the manual is not much good.  So the mattress went back onto the bed, naked, while I tried to figure to what was wrong.    Thank heavens it is not raining these days since the roof over the bed leaks.  After several days of fiddling and searching the internet I finally found the problem.  The bobbin case had rusted and was not turning.  Once I got it off and cleaned and oiled,  I was back in business.  Most of a week was devoted to rebuilding the captains chair in the cockpit and fixing up the sun awnings.

Thursday, January 11, 2018

Nov 20, 2017 Musket Cove

Musket Cove  Nov 20-25

Denerau feels very much like San Diego or Newport Beach or any other pricy waterfront development; fancy house on the water, each with it’s own dock, lots of restaurants and tourist shops.  It is close to the airport and the departure point for all of the ferries, tour boats and island cruise ships.  Alan counted 18 boats coming and going one afternoon.  It is also home port to a number of super yachts giant boats some of them bigger than the cruise ships with their own helicopters.  We spent about a week at the dock here, mostly sleeping and dealing with some of the issues that had come up on our trip.  The two biggest issues are. The SSB radio, which receives but does not broadcast, and the ongoing watermaker/generator problem.    I did some much needed shopping and stocked up on beer and wine, meat and vegetables. 

Thanksgiving found us at Musket Cove Resourt, a short sail across the bay and a favorite of all the yachties.  There were only a few other boats there when we arrived but one by one, others showed and there was a good sized crowed for the traditional barbecue potluck on the beach.  We spent several days here, swimming, snorkeling, being still more lazy.  We took a dive trip out to the reef and rented a Hobie cat for an afternoon.   We had not realized before that Malolo is like the other islands in that no alcohol is for sale in the markets.  You can only get it a few hours a day from a back room at the hotel. 

The highlight of this visit was my new kitten.  I so enjoyed having a cat on board last year that I had decided that I was going to have one this year too.  I had planned on contacting the local Humane Society when we got back to see if they had a kitten I could foster.  Whenever they found a home for it I would give it beck and take another one.  Our last night at the bar I was explaining my idea to the waitress when she said that they had just found two abandoned kittens and one of them was black.  I have always had a soft spot for black cats.  After she promised to take it back when we left Fiji, I said I would I would take it.  She called her son who showed up with a cardboard box containing a tiny, fierce, hissing bundle of fir.  It was so young it’s eyes had not finished changing color yet.  We loaded the box into the dingy and set off across the bay to Rhapsody.  Surprisingly, he did not seem to be frightened of the outboard.  I guess it sounded like purring.  I had accidentally kept one bag of kitty litter when I gave away Raijeli last year so that problem was taken care of.  One tin of tuna later and the little waif was snuggled down for a long nap.  Next morning we headed back to Vuda.  To our surprise, he was not bothered by the engine noise at all.  He was named Capt Jack Sparrow.  Then name seemed to suit.  Even when we found out that she was a girl rather than a boy we kept the name.  The Fiji language does not really distinguish between the sexes anyway and we were used to it.  After all there were a number of women pirates back in the old days.



Nov 12, 2017 Moala to Momi Bay

Nov 12, Moala to Momi bay

Flat calm, overcast.  We motored our way out through the reefs again and turned south towards SuvaWe were expecting light winds and that is what we got. A couple of times we put the sails up but it just was not worth it.  For whatever reason our autopilot was not working.  Possibly because we are too close to the date line?  I don’t know if that makes a difference or not.  Need to check it out.  So that was our day, taking turns on the helm with the engine on, no wind, overcast sky but warm.  Towards evening it started to get squally and we got a few rain showers.  Since the mizzen sail was not up I was able to rig the little awning over the cockpit and provide at least some protection from the rain for whoever was driving.  As the sky got dark in the evening, we started to see a glow off in the distance which we finally figured out was the city lights of Suva.  Suva is not really a very big city and it was amazing how far out to sea the lights could be seen.  It actually made a nice target to steer by.

All day, all night, taking turns.  Our plan was to sail past Suva since it is not a very nice harbor and stop just up the way.  Serua Harbor looked good on the charts, a narrow entrance which opened up into a wide, protected bay.  It was even labeled public anchorage.  But as we got closer we could see no sign of the opening.  Instead there was spray flying everywhere as we sailed along the outside of the reef.  The wind had come up by now and it was also high tide.  We were ready for a break but this was not going to work.  Once again caution won out over adventure.  If we had a decent cruising guide to Fiji we might have chanced it but since we did not we decided to move on.  As we headed back out away from the reef we were approached by a large tug boat which gave us a call on the radio.  They were just checking to be sure we were OK.   Nice.

There was possibly another harbor a little way up the coast but we decided to just keep going until we were off the the main entrance in the reef and then heave to for the rest of the night.  Meanwhile the weather had gotten worse.  Wind had picked up and there were thunderstorms over the land.  Once again, all of the electronics went into the oven for safe keeping.  Luckily the lightening stayed over the land and we stayed well off of the coast.  Just about dark we decided that we had gone far enough.  We hove to off Sigatoka for dinner and a good night’s sleep. 

Next morning we woke to find Rhapsody tossing all over the place on very rough seas with 2 meter swells.  We had drifted three miles the wrong direction overnight, not towards land ,thank heavens, but away from our destination.  Apparently there is a very strong current here.  When you heave to the tiller and the sail are in opposition so that the boat does not sail away with the wind but it is still at the mercy of the current.  Sails and motor on we spent the next few hours regaining the ground we had lost overnight, tacking and jibing to avoid the many reefs.  About noon we finally made it  to the entrance to the mail reef which surrounds the western side of Vitu Levy..  Usually any time we get into close quarters or tricky situations Alan takes the tiller but I decided that this time I was going to do it.  The channel was reasonably wide and very well marked and the iPad was working fine.  Thirty minutes later I brought us into Momi Bay and Alan dropped anchor.  The only glitch was that we had both forgotten that the reefed mizzen sail was up and when the anchor struck we immediately started swinging wildly.  Luckily there was very little wind in the bay and it only took a minute to get the sail down.  I did it.  Ok, not really such a big deal, not really a very tricky passage but still I was feeling pretty proud.  Hopefully we will have more chances this season to get out of the marina so that I can practice more.

Mom Bay is a lovely anchorage just inside the reef.  It s about 25 feet deep with a good bottom, the bank is thick with mangrove trees and seems very deserted.  No wide sandy beaches here.  There are a few small houses on shore and what looks like it might be a resort over on the point but really very quiet.  We had a swim, dinner a good night’s sleep and the next day we were in Denerau.  We tied up to the wharf just as about a dozen of our sailor friends were gathering for a party on another boat.  Cold beer at last.  The perfect end to the trip.

Monday, January 8, 2018

Nov 10, 2017 Moala

Moala.  Nov 10, 2017


Out of the channel and away from the island the clouds lift a little.  The course is due south for 24 hours.  Wind is light but from the east so finally we can hoist the sails.  It gradually picks up during the day until we are doing a steady 5 knots on a beam reach.  Alan gets the wind vane to work so we do not have to hold onto the tiller all the time, we can just sit back and keep an eye on the compass.  It is still overcast and choppy but actually a lovely sail.  Late in the afternoon we caught another fish.  No drama this time.  Threw the line over.  Pulled it in an hour later with an already weakened fish on it.  Tossed it into the cockpit where it died a few minutes later.  No whacking, no bloody mess.  About 12” long, just right for dinner for 2.

About midnight a half moon came up, dodging in and out of the clouds.  There were a few stars and lots of sheet lightening.  At one point there was something that looked like a green and orange rocket, streaking down the sky and disappearing into the ocean.  A meteor?  A bit of space junk?  The wind stayed true and Louise the wind vane held the course. 

Just about dawn we once again lost the GPS signal.  Moala is right on the dateline so we were expecting this.  Perfect timing.  We dropped the jib made a sharp right turn and motored west for about an hour until the GPS came back on and we were just off the entrance to the reef.  Then we hove to for a nap and breakfast.  After breakfast we headed for the village.  For the first time our charts let us down.  There was just no detail.  It looked OK until you zoomed in and then it vanished and we were left with amorphous blobs.  We had promised to go to this village because a friend of ours is from there so we decided to see if we could do it.  If we run into trouble we can always turn around and head back out.  Slowly, slowly, with me on the  bow to keep an eye out, we crept through what should be the passage in the reef.   Slowly, slowly.  And then, just as we were coming up on what looked like a good anchorage the depth went from 60’ to 25’ and I could suddenly see very clearly through the water to coral reefs everywhere.  I yelled, Alan stopped and reversed   We quickly decided that this was a bad idea.  Just as we were turning to leave a boat came racing out from shore and pulled along side.  Police!  Now what?  They gestured us to follow them and escorted us around the corner to a spot just off the beach where we could anchor in 25’ of sand.  Once we had the anchor set they came on board to welcome us and see our paperwork.  Turned out the police chief was also the village chief and was delighted to accept our gift of kava right then and there so that was taken care of and we were “free to move about the island”

The reason we were at Moala was because a friend who works in the marina heard we were going to the Lau  and suggested we visit here since that is where her family is from.  She neglected to make it clear that she had left there when she was five and had never gone back We also did not have her family name and learned later she actually lived with an aunt and uncle during that time. No wonder no one knew who we were asking for.  I actually had her last name on my phone but of course my phone was not working.  One of the policemen offered me his phone and I send both voice mail and text telling her we had arrived in her village and would she please call back and give the nice policeman her family name.

Naroi turned out to be a charming village, one of the nicest we have visited.  Like Lomolomo, there is a strong Tongan influence.  Most of the places we have been in Fiji the houses are in a state of disrepair with rusting roofs, broken boards, pealing paint in a mishmash of colors.  Here everything looked freshly painted and well maintained.  There were wide lawns between the houses with lovely flowering trees and shrubs.   Horses grazed here and there.  A cement path lead along the waterfront and another one meandered along the back of the village and up the hill to the church.  We wandered down to the end of the village and back along the waterfront occasionally asking if anyone knew of the family of our friend.  Back at the village I tracked down the market which was actually nothing more that a room in someone’s house.  As usual in the smaller villages, you need to stand at the door and ask for that you want.  No browsing.  When I asked if they had either chicken or beer I was told no.  But they had span, canned tuna, paper goods. fruit cocktail, breakfast crackers.  By and large Fijians have a pretty limited diet.  They grow cassava and taro, some vegetables. There are lots of chickens around and they catch fish.  I had seen children with what looked like popsicles so I backtracked to where they were lined up at one of the houses.  I was assured this was the place.  The family had a freezer and made popcicles out of fruit juice poured into a paper cup.  Perfect for a hot day.  I was soon a sticky mess as they melted and ran all down my arms but it was worth it.

The post office across from the police station sold internet top ups so we can once again check in.  Unfortunately, service is limited.  We finally found a spot along the shore half way back to the boat where there was a good signal and we sat on a large rock to once again check the weather.  Still looks good.

Just as we were ready to head back tot he boat, our police friend caught up with us and told us he had identified the family we were looking for.  He escorted us back to their house and then also took us the the house of the peace corps workers who were from San Diego.  We had a lovely afternoon visiting and come away loaded with fresh mangos

When we finally got back to the boat in the late afternoon the tide was out and we realized that we were anchored way too close to the reef.  It was only about 50 feet off the stern.  If we dragged at all we would be on it and there was a fairly brisk wind blowing.  So we started the engine and then Alan raised the anchor just off the bottom while I headed us away from shore, into deeper water where Alan dropped anchor again.  We are still close but this should be fine.

When we were in the village Alan was told that he should remove his had as it was disrespectful to wear one.  We had heard that hats and shoes should be removed inside homes and especially in the presence of a chief but never in a whole village.  Nonetheless he complied.  Don’t forget the village chief is also a police officer.  Better not to offend.  Thank heavens I had worn a sulu and a blouse with sleeves.  Unfortunately as a result of walking around in the sun all day without a hat, Alan was miserable that night with what I guess was heat stroke so he spent the next day in bed.  We never did get back to spend more time with our new friends as we had promised.  The following day we left Moala headed for Suva.