October 207 Futuna Run part 1

Vuda to Futuna and back, Oct 2017 Part 1

After waiting and waiting and waiting, suddenly we left before we were really ready. I thought we were going Wednesday but our buddy boat was ready and on the way Tuesday morning. I had planned on one last laundry and one last shopping. On the other hand, we need to do this. It is just 4 days to Savusavu and I can catch up there while we check out and wait for weather to make the run to Futuna. So we were underway by 2:30 and spent the night at Bakana. I hate anchoring at Bekana because the bottom is soft mud and it takes forever to get the anchor up and the mud washed off. On the plus side, the new anchor remote that Alan made works nicely and the slightly too large chain is starting to settle in, helped along by liberal doses of WD40. The familiar motor sail through the reef along the west side of Viti Levu went smoothly, calm seas and sun. As usual, we had 20 knots of wind on the nose when we rounded the corner. By 5:30 we were anchored at Nananu-i-cake where Bev on Kokoh was waiting for us with cold beer and hot stew.
Since the winds were predicted to continue to blow we decided to stay here one more day. Finally we can run the water maker. We have a new generator so it should work fine, except that it doesn’t. Reexamining the fine print for both the water maker and the generator reveals that one is 60 hertz and one is 50 hertz. Damn! One or the other is going to need to be changed. Last time we were in Savusavu we found a really good electrician. Hopefully he is still in business. In the meanwhile, we are completely full of water, 120 gals. Easily enough to get to Savusavu or even Futuna and back,
We usually go north from Nanayu-i-ra to Vanua Levu but Bev suggested that we continue further south to Naigoni which gives a better angle to get into Savusavu and avoids a very narrow pass. So off we went, once again motoring into the wind through the reefs. Fiji seems to be nothing but reefs and the winds are always on the nose. Except for the water maker, everything seems to be working well. Fred, the auto pilot, did a great job. Naigoni was delightful. We were nchored in white sand against a deserted beach by 2:30. Beautiful reefs for snorkeling, although it is a little cool OK, yes, I am spoiled by the always warm water and air.
Next day another change of plans. We are only a short way from the old capital of Lavuke on Ovalau and we can check out of the country there instead of going to Savusavu. We have been wanting to go there anyway, so seems like a good chance. We actually got the main sail up for a couple of hours and it looks good. There is a small weak spot which the sailmaker was supposed to patch and missed, but it should not be a problem.  We will have to wait until we get back from Futuna to see about getting the water maker to work.
We arrived in Lavuka early morning on Sunday after a short 2 hour sail. It is a strange place for a major port since there is no real harbor and the town is on the east side of the island, facing the trade winds. The anchorage is just off the town, inside the reefs but with no protection from the wind It almost feels like ships coming from the east just ran into the island and stopped but bacon the day it was considered a good anchorage and one of the reasons LAvuka became the first capital of Fiji
Since is Sunday, I decided to go to church. I haven't been much on this trip and the singing in the Polynesian churches is marvelous. As we sailed into the town, we passed a wonderful grey stone church with an impressive bell tower and stained glass windows. Seems like that is the place to go for Sunday morning services. Of course by the time we got anchored and got the dingy launched and figured out where to tie up, it was late but I set off anyway. The town is only 1 block deep, spread along the waterfront and It seemed like there was singing coming from every building. After stopping in at 3-4 churches, I finally made it to the old stone church only to discover that it is no longer functional. It was badly damaged in Winston and apparently the archdiocese just gave up on it. so, mission accomplished we turned around and headed back exploring the little town as we went. We eventually stopped at the Hotel Royal built in the 1860s. Looks just like you would expect a South Sea Island hotel to look, lush grounds festooned with orchids, breezy rooms with rattan furniture and not a soul around. Eventually we made our way back to the boat to get ready to check out and head for Futuna in the morning.
Monday morning, documentation in hand, we headed for customs/immigration. Staff were very polite and not at all in a hurry. In addition to filling out forms and having passports stamped, we need to fill out a 9 page reentry form and email it to the customs office in Suva. Problem is the wifi in Lava is almost nonexistent. There are 2 internet cafes but they do not have wifi so we can use our iPads. Apparently only the Royal Hotel has wifi. In the process of searching we learned that the next day, October 10, is Fiji Day, a public holiday featuring a reenactment of the recession of Fiji to England in 1840. This is a big deal here since Lava is the site where it actually happened. Everyone from the customs officials to the man on the street encouraged us to stay. We are really not in a hurry and the weather looks OK for several days so we decided to stay. Our buddy boat, Kokoh, decided to go ahead leave so we will be on our own for the trip but we have done it twice before. It should not be a problem.
Bright and early Tuesday morning we joined the rest of the population of the town heading up the road to the official site. Everyone was wearing Fiji blue. Many had tied a Fiji flag around their waist as a sulu. In 1874 England agreed to annex Fiji as a British crown colony. Fiji belonged to England for 100 years. In 1970 England granted independence and returned the country to the Fijians, again on October 10 so it is in a sense a double celebration, although this reenactment is all-out the British. The police band marched, school children sand “God Save the Queen”. The participants emerged from an impressive stone bure in full costume and proceeded to the site overlooking the waterfront. First came young men in native dress, then the old chief complete with white wig and beard, Behind him came the British officials followed by the wives and daughters. Speeches were made, documents read, both in English and in Fijian. Everyone signed the paperwork. Flags were raised and lowered. The band played, the schooled children sang and everyone had a great time. When it was over everyone walked in procession back along the main road to the sports park where more speeches were given and the students participated in an oratory contest. Then there was ferris wheel and bumper cars and cotton candy and barbecue stands. All together a most satisfactory day. I am glad we stayed to se it.
Next day customs and immigration were open again. We spent 2 frustrating hours filling out and trying to email the reentry paperwork and then we were off to Futuna.