June 24, 2015 Musket Cove to Navadra

June 24 2015  Musket Cove to Navadra

So, time to go.  We get up early and run through the casting off checklist.  it has been so long that we really need to check the list to be sure we have not forgotten anything.  The weather is lovely, clear with a brisk wind.  Since we have the iPad and JeanMarie is relying on an older computer, we lead the way. We thread our way carefully through the reefs with me on the bow with the small iPad in hand, matching what is on the charts to what I can see.  Once out of the worst of the reefs, we hoist the jib and move right along at about 5.5-6 knots.  Jacqui is extremely nervous, about the route, especially when Alan decides to go a different way from what she had expected and with our sails up we are pulling farther and farther ahead.  The winds have picked up.  We are now on the western side of the islands with waves crashing on the outer reef to our port side.  It is a glorious sail.

About 2:00 we come into our first planned anchorage, Navadra Island.  We had heard that there was only room for 2-3 boats here and there are already 3 boats anchored in the bay but it looks like there is room for us, so we decide to go for it.  Plenty of room.  There is no village here, just a lovely sandy beach with very deep water.  The wind continues to blow quite strongly and we are much less protected than we thought we would be.  But it is a lovely spot, white sand beach covered with shells, crystal clear water, lots of fish and so peaceful.  Nevada is also called the sacred island.  On my walk down the beach I spot what looks like a makeshift altar under the trees, covered with beautiful shells, flowers, and oddly enough an empty cigarette box.  Just beyond it is a shallow cave, under an outcropping of rock.  In the center of that space is a large flat rock holding several bundles of kava root.  Next to it are the ashes of a fire.  I have often asked people here to tell me the tales and legends of the old time.  every time I have been told that the people came from Africa and were cannibals but then the missionaries came and now they do not believe those old stories and more.   Obviously there is some remnant of belief.

Later that afternoon, we gather on Jean Marie to compare charts.  Jacqui and Walter are using open CPN and C-map charts on an older computer and neither of these charts show very much detail. They are very difficult to use in the narrow, reef strewn passages that we are traveling through on this trip.  We have been absolutely delighted with our Navionics charts so far, they have been spot on.  So it is decided that Jacqui will once again follow us and we will stay in radio contact to warn here when we hit shallow spots.  It is interesting that shallow is now defined as anything under 10 fathoms, that is 60 feet.  Where it is not shallow, it is really deep.

Late in the afternoon our friends on Wind Cutter join us, bringing a mouse trap.  We were apparently boarded by a mouse in Vuda and so far have had no luck catching it with sticky traps.  It is enjoying our oatmeal, powdered milk and granola bars.  I have taken things out of several cupboards and put everything possible into tupperware or heavy plastic bags.  The trap is baited with granola bar and put into the cupboard with the most apparent activity.  We shall see…