Back into Fiji, Nov 1, 2015
So here we are, back again. Because we crossed the date line twice we lost track of what day it is, but we think it is Monday. We hope it is because the Customs/Immigration offices will not be open on Sunday 8am. There should be a cruisers net on the radio. Nothing. Oops. I get on the radio and call the marina office. No answer. Finally another cruiser answers my call. It is Sunday after all. Now what. We are not supposed to moor or dock or even anchor until we have permission. The other boat tracks down marina security to ask what to do and, lo and behold, we are instructed to take a mooring ball. But we are not to get off of the boat until Monday when Medical and Biosecurity will clear us. This is fine. All we want is a lazy day anyway. We have eggs left, and there is even a bottle of champagne waiting for a good occasion so we treat ourselves to a lovely breakfast. I go over for a quick swim and then we settle down for a long nap.
Sometime in the afternoon, there is a knock on the hull and a voice shouting “Rhapsody” The customs officer is there, very upset. He had commandeered the dingy of one of the other sailors and come to see what the heck we were doing moored with the yellow Q flag up on a Sunday. Luckily the other sailor had heard the whole thing on the radio and corroborated our excuse that we had been told to moor by the marina security guard. After a bit more yelling we were told to launch our dingy forthwith and show up on shore with all our paperwork where we would be met by a customs officer to check us in. No argument from us. Off we went and an hour later, after the usual filling out and stamping of papers, we were legal. Except not really. We were allowed to buy a cold beer but once we were back on the boat we needed to wait for medical and biosecurity. Once they cleared us we need to present ourselves at the customs office again for further paperwork.
Next morning, bright and early, we were told to move from the mooring to the dock but not leave the boat until medical and biosecurity came, Once again, lots of papers were filled out and stamped. Then back to Customs to finish the paperwork Finally legal. There was one other boat at the dock which had just returned and 2 other boats came in while we waited. All three had to be towed in because of various problems. The worst was a boat which had hit something which damaged the prop so badly that they had no steering.
But I think we left a mess in our wake. We should not have been told to come in and moor on Sunday. We were supposed to anchor someplace offshore. So this is an issue between the marina security and customs Once we were in, we should not have been told to come ashore to be cleared by customs. We were supposed to stay on the boat until cleared by medical and biosecurity So all the parties involved will have to sort it out. Meanwhile, we are cleared to be back in Fiji again.
As an interesting footnote, I ran into the customs officer on a walk around the town later and we spent a pleasant hour drinking kava and eating papaya and pineapple. He acknowledged that we had done nothing wrong, but he had strong words for the marina staff who never should have told us to come in and take a mooring.
Saturday, November 14, 2015
Futuna and back, Oct 25, 2015
Futuna and back
Finally, the weather is good and all of our paperwork is in order We are off to Futuna, a small island country about 200 miles north of Fiji, that is a French Protectorate The sole purpose of the trip is to renew the visa for Rhapsody so that she can be in Fiji another 18 months. Everyone who stays in Fiji more than one season does this trip and there are several boats going this week. The traditional wisdom is to leave in the afternoon, sail up the Koro sea all night and arrive at the pass in the morning, at the ebb tide which should sweep you through. During the last week, we have talked to the other sailors and collected waypoints which are input into our navigation program so it should be a fairly smooth passage. The really narrow part is only about 10 miles long.
As soon as we cleared the bay, we knew that this was not going to be an easy ride. We were facing choppy seas, swells, a headwind and a strong current It seemed impossible to make any headway, no matter what tack we tried, even with the motor on. And I immediately got seasick. After several hours, I finally put on one of the patches which gets rid of the nausea but makes me very sleepy. In these conditions Alan would have done the driving anyway, but the face that I was seasick meant that he was not going to get hardly any breaks. It was a long night but by daybreak we were finally in sight of the pass and I was feeling better.
Luckily, the tide was with us and we cruised through Somosomo Pass with no problems and into a lovely bay between islands. All day we sailed through reefs and past island, following the waypoints we had been given. By the end of the day we were mostly out of the trick parts. Now it was a straight sail of a day and a half to Futuna. The weather programs had predicted an easy south east wind, and it was. What we had not counted on was choppy, confused seas and swells coming at us sideways, so that we constantly rolled back and forth and water crashed over the bow. It was not dangerous, just very uncomfortable. We finally put the lea cloth on the settee so that we could sleep without falling onto the floor. We settled on a watch schedule of 2 hours on and 2 hours off. Not much sleep but better than nothing. And it is only for a day or two.
As the sun came up, we could see the island in front of us, not very big, and the entrance to the harbor. As we had been warned, the harbor is very small and surrounded by reefs. It looks to be big enough for 2-3 boats at the most. It is not a very well protected harbor and we have heard horror stories of how uncomfortable, not to say downright dangerous it can be in bad weather. Luckily there was no one else there so we had our choice of anchorage spots and the sea was calm with few swells and a light breeze. We dropped anchor and turned in to get some sleep until the customs office was up and running.
Although they spoke only French, the Customs officers were very friendly and efficient. When we finished with Customs we walked up the road to the Gendarmerie where the process was repeated on behalf of immigration. Paperwork was filled out and we were stamped into the country and out again for tomorrow. So we have the rest of the day to explore Futuna. It reminds me a lot of the Marquesas. The houses are much more substantial and European looking than they are in Fiji. There is one main road that runs along the coast and steep green cliff rise just behind. Everyone seems to drive a new Toyota pickup truck. There is not much of a town here. Eventually we came to a hotel that advertised a restaurant. Knowing that Futuna in French, we had been looking forward to some good french food, or at least bread so we went in and ordered a petit dejeuner . It consisted of a small cup of coffee and several pieces of very good bread, with butter and jam for $20 US. Next stop was the market, just up the street. While they would take credit cards but the minimum was $5000. Unfortunately no one could tell us what the exchange rate was, but after browsing for a while we decided that it was probably 100-1, same as French Polynesia. We found out later that we could have used out FP francs. Unfortunately, other than a few jars of pate and cornichons, there was nothing that we really wanted. So reluctantly we headed back to the boat and left for Fiji the next morning.
Next morning, time to leave, ready to go and the engine won’t start. We have been having problems on and off with the starter battery. One more thing that will have to be sorted out when we get settled for the hurricane season. Meanwhile, Alan started the ever faithful Honda generator and used it to charge the engine starter battery. An hour later, the engine started right up and we were on our way back.
The sail back was as different as night and day from the sail up. The seas were calm. the swells were running with us. the wind was perfect. We put up the yellow Genoa and raced along at 6+knots. I was feeling great and Alan actually got a good nights sleep.
We were back among the reef of Fiji by the next afternoon. The moon is just past the full, which mens that it will come up about 10pm. We typically average 4.5 knots which would have put us entering Somosome straight just at moonrise. I am not wild about going through in the dark but with a moon it should be OK. Unfortunately, we made such good time that we are here early. Not only that, but the wind should die when we get in among the island and it was not dying, in fact, we are gong faster than ever, 7.3 knots at one point. I think we must have a current. i finally insisted that we take down the main sail. I don’t like the thought of a sudden blast of wind knocking us off course in a narrow channel. So here we are. It is pitch black The moon won’t be up for several hours. There is a strong wind blowing and we are in the narrow pass. Alan says not to worry, we will just follow the waypoints back. they worked perfectly on the way up so it should be fine . And then the navigation program starts acting wonky. We have two iPads and neither one of them are working right. They show the position, but not the direction that we are going. We can’t figure out what the problem is. Luckily I had noted the compass heading just before all this started and it is pretty much a straight shot through. Turned out that we were exactly on the 180 meridian and all of the navigation/weather programs go crazy there. After about 20 minutes we were on the other side of it and everything started working again but it was pretty hairy for a while.
After all the drama, we actually made it through rather neatly, as Alan had promised. But when we hit the other side it was a different story. It should have been an east wind to take us quickly back to Somosome Bay. Instead we found ourselves battling what must have been a 3 knot currant. The tide had changed after carrying us through so nicely. Even with the engine going full blast, we made no headway for hours. Alan turned the tiller over to me and I immediately did a 360. The eddies spun us all over the place. It was impossible to keep a course. After several hours, we finally got clear of the island shadow and picked up some wind. The current eased off and Alan could take a break while I drove. It still was not easy sailing. Once again the swells were coming sideways making the boat rock from side to side . By 8:00 in the morning we were entering Somosomo Bay.
Finally, the weather is good and all of our paperwork is in order We are off to Futuna, a small island country about 200 miles north of Fiji, that is a French Protectorate The sole purpose of the trip is to renew the visa for Rhapsody so that she can be in Fiji another 18 months. Everyone who stays in Fiji more than one season does this trip and there are several boats going this week. The traditional wisdom is to leave in the afternoon, sail up the Koro sea all night and arrive at the pass in the morning, at the ebb tide which should sweep you through. During the last week, we have talked to the other sailors and collected waypoints which are input into our navigation program so it should be a fairly smooth passage. The really narrow part is only about 10 miles long.
As soon as we cleared the bay, we knew that this was not going to be an easy ride. We were facing choppy seas, swells, a headwind and a strong current It seemed impossible to make any headway, no matter what tack we tried, even with the motor on. And I immediately got seasick. After several hours, I finally put on one of the patches which gets rid of the nausea but makes me very sleepy. In these conditions Alan would have done the driving anyway, but the face that I was seasick meant that he was not going to get hardly any breaks. It was a long night but by daybreak we were finally in sight of the pass and I was feeling better.
Luckily, the tide was with us and we cruised through Somosomo Pass with no problems and into a lovely bay between islands. All day we sailed through reefs and past island, following the waypoints we had been given. By the end of the day we were mostly out of the trick parts. Now it was a straight sail of a day and a half to Futuna. The weather programs had predicted an easy south east wind, and it was. What we had not counted on was choppy, confused seas and swells coming at us sideways, so that we constantly rolled back and forth and water crashed over the bow. It was not dangerous, just very uncomfortable. We finally put the lea cloth on the settee so that we could sleep without falling onto the floor. We settled on a watch schedule of 2 hours on and 2 hours off. Not much sleep but better than nothing. And it is only for a day or two.
As the sun came up, we could see the island in front of us, not very big, and the entrance to the harbor. As we had been warned, the harbor is very small and surrounded by reefs. It looks to be big enough for 2-3 boats at the most. It is not a very well protected harbor and we have heard horror stories of how uncomfortable, not to say downright dangerous it can be in bad weather. Luckily there was no one else there so we had our choice of anchorage spots and the sea was calm with few swells and a light breeze. We dropped anchor and turned in to get some sleep until the customs office was up and running.
Although they spoke only French, the Customs officers were very friendly and efficient. When we finished with Customs we walked up the road to the Gendarmerie where the process was repeated on behalf of immigration. Paperwork was filled out and we were stamped into the country and out again for tomorrow. So we have the rest of the day to explore Futuna. It reminds me a lot of the Marquesas. The houses are much more substantial and European looking than they are in Fiji. There is one main road that runs along the coast and steep green cliff rise just behind. Everyone seems to drive a new Toyota pickup truck. There is not much of a town here. Eventually we came to a hotel that advertised a restaurant. Knowing that Futuna in French, we had been looking forward to some good french food, or at least bread so we went in and ordered a petit dejeuner . It consisted of a small cup of coffee and several pieces of very good bread, with butter and jam for $20 US. Next stop was the market, just up the street. While they would take credit cards but the minimum was $5000. Unfortunately no one could tell us what the exchange rate was, but after browsing for a while we decided that it was probably 100-1, same as French Polynesia. We found out later that we could have used out FP francs. Unfortunately, other than a few jars of pate and cornichons, there was nothing that we really wanted. So reluctantly we headed back to the boat and left for Fiji the next morning.
Next morning, time to leave, ready to go and the engine won’t start. We have been having problems on and off with the starter battery. One more thing that will have to be sorted out when we get settled for the hurricane season. Meanwhile, Alan started the ever faithful Honda generator and used it to charge the engine starter battery. An hour later, the engine started right up and we were on our way back.
The sail back was as different as night and day from the sail up. The seas were calm. the swells were running with us. the wind was perfect. We put up the yellow Genoa and raced along at 6+knots. I was feeling great and Alan actually got a good nights sleep.
We were back among the reef of Fiji by the next afternoon. The moon is just past the full, which mens that it will come up about 10pm. We typically average 4.5 knots which would have put us entering Somosome straight just at moonrise. I am not wild about going through in the dark but with a moon it should be OK. Unfortunately, we made such good time that we are here early. Not only that, but the wind should die when we get in among the island and it was not dying, in fact, we are gong faster than ever, 7.3 knots at one point. I think we must have a current. i finally insisted that we take down the main sail. I don’t like the thought of a sudden blast of wind knocking us off course in a narrow channel. So here we are. It is pitch black The moon won’t be up for several hours. There is a strong wind blowing and we are in the narrow pass. Alan says not to worry, we will just follow the waypoints back. they worked perfectly on the way up so it should be fine . And then the navigation program starts acting wonky. We have two iPads and neither one of them are working right. They show the position, but not the direction that we are going. We can’t figure out what the problem is. Luckily I had noted the compass heading just before all this started and it is pretty much a straight shot through. Turned out that we were exactly on the 180 meridian and all of the navigation/weather programs go crazy there. After about 20 minutes we were on the other side of it and everything started working again but it was pretty hairy for a while.
After all the drama, we actually made it through rather neatly, as Alan had promised. But when we hit the other side it was a different story. It should have been an east wind to take us quickly back to Somosome Bay. Instead we found ourselves battling what must have been a 3 knot currant. The tide had changed after carrying us through so nicely. Even with the engine going full blast, we made no headway for hours. Alan turned the tiller over to me and I immediately did a 360. The eddies spun us all over the place. It was impossible to keep a course. After several hours, we finally got clear of the island shadow and picked up some wind. The current eased off and Alan could take a break while I drove. It still was not easy sailing. Once again the swells were coming sideways making the boat rock from side to side . By 8:00 in the morning we were entering Somosomo Bay.
Oct 20, 2015 Savusavu
Savusavu Oct 20, 2015
We have been hearing about Savusavu ever since we have been in Fiji. People say it is so different than Vuda, that we will love it, but they don’t really describe it. We finally made it and they were right. It is very different and we do love it. First off, we are moored it a narrow bay amongst green hills, right in front of a charming town. Not is a marina miles from the town. It reminds me for some reason of something out of the old west, with arched colonnades supporting a roof over the first floor shops and wooden stairs leading to the second floor. There are hardware stores, video stores, clothing shops and Fiji crafts shops and one of the best grocery stores in Fiji with lots of hard to find items, like tortilla chips and dill pickles and drip grind coffee. but without the frantic tourist vibe of Nadi or the hustle and bustle of Lautoka. Very laid back and relaxed. As always in Fiji, everyone is very helpful. We don’t have the luxurious hot showers that we have in Vuda but there is laundry service so i don’t have to spend all day doing the laundry. The restaurants are small, funky, good and cheap; chinese food, indian food, wonderful cassava chips instead of french fries. It is easy in and out of the marina without the major production of docking in Vuda so we can go out for a day sail any time. If we end up staying in Fiji another year, I think we might spend the cyclone season here, rather than Vuda.
Unfortunately, it took us so long to get here, because of the weather, that Alan’s visa expires tomorrow. We had hoped to be here a couple of days ago, so that we could check out before it expired. However, we just don’t want to leave immediately. We need a couple of days to regroup and wait for a good weather window. So Alan is off to throw himself on the mercy of the Immigration officials. Luckily, he found a sympathetic officer. Several days later, after numerous phone calls to immigration headquarters in Suva and the payment of a substantial fee, he is legal for another 6 months. And the of course the next thing that we do is check out of the country . The hard won extension is useless. It will all start over again with 4 months when we re-enter Fiji. Very frustrating but part of the cost of sailing.
We have been hearing about Savusavu ever since we have been in Fiji. People say it is so different than Vuda, that we will love it, but they don’t really describe it. We finally made it and they were right. It is very different and we do love it. First off, we are moored it a narrow bay amongst green hills, right in front of a charming town. Not is a marina miles from the town. It reminds me for some reason of something out of the old west, with arched colonnades supporting a roof over the first floor shops and wooden stairs leading to the second floor. There are hardware stores, video stores, clothing shops and Fiji crafts shops and one of the best grocery stores in Fiji with lots of hard to find items, like tortilla chips and dill pickles and drip grind coffee. but without the frantic tourist vibe of Nadi or the hustle and bustle of Lautoka. Very laid back and relaxed. As always in Fiji, everyone is very helpful. We don’t have the luxurious hot showers that we have in Vuda but there is laundry service so i don’t have to spend all day doing the laundry. The restaurants are small, funky, good and cheap; chinese food, indian food, wonderful cassava chips instead of french fries. It is easy in and out of the marina without the major production of docking in Vuda so we can go out for a day sail any time. If we end up staying in Fiji another year, I think we might spend the cyclone season here, rather than Vuda.
Unfortunately, it took us so long to get here, because of the weather, that Alan’s visa expires tomorrow. We had hoped to be here a couple of days ago, so that we could check out before it expired. However, we just don’t want to leave immediately. We need a couple of days to regroup and wait for a good weather window. So Alan is off to throw himself on the mercy of the Immigration officials. Luckily, he found a sympathetic officer. Several days later, after numerous phone calls to immigration headquarters in Suva and the payment of a substantial fee, he is legal for another 6 months. And the of course the next thing that we do is check out of the country . The hard won extension is useless. It will all start over again with 4 months when we re-enter Fiji. Very frustrating but part of the cost of sailing.
October 13, 2015 waiting out the big blow
Oct 12-17, 2015 Big Blow in Yanutha and on to Savusavu
The weather system that we have been watching is getting bigger and closer. It now has an official tropical depression number, although it is not a cyclone yet. We are not moving until it is well and truly gone. The clock is ticking on Alan’s visa but too bad. We are not going anywhere.
Rewa, the big boat that passed us on the way over, is also anchored here but they plan to move on down farther south tomorrow, before the weather gets really bad. Early in the morning they take off and several hours later they are back. Apparently when they got out of the shelter of the island it was really nasty. By the end of the day, one more boat arrives. So here we are and here we will stay.
The weather is grey and cloudy. We can hear the wind howling in the rigging occasionally strong wind gusts toss us around but the water is calm, smooth, no swells. From time to time it rains. There is nothing on shore except the green of the mangroves. Across the bay is a small cluster of cottages with a pier and a couple of boats. It is just quiet here, very quiet. For 4 days we sit here, reading, playing internet games, cooking, eating, checking the weather reports checking the anchor. Luckily we have a good, strong internet signal. The anchor is in tight and we do not move. It is actually a very odd time. There is nothing to do and not much we can do so we just take a vacation from all of the stress and crazyness of the past weeks.
Finally it looks like the storm is gone. There is a glimpse of brightness in the sky and the internet shows the wind easing off. Rewa is gone early and this time does not come back. We decide to give it one more day. No point taking off while it is still gloomy.
Next morning is glorious. Glad we waited. Blue sky, bright sun, brisk wind. Anchor up and off we go. It is about 40 miles across the notorious Bligh Water to the other main island of Fiji. Once we are out of the reef it is a straight sail across and we settle back and relax and enjoy sailing again after all this time. Of course after all that storminess, there is very little wind and I start to worry that we will not get anchored before dark so we decide to alter course just a little to stop at an earlier anchorage. We have never been here before so we do not know anything about any of them. On the chart one looks as good as the other. However, when we get there it and try to anchor it turns out to be horrible. After 2-3 passes looking for a good spot we give up decide to go on to the next place. It can’t be worse. It is now 4:30. It gets dark about 6:30 and the next anchorage is 7 miles away We should just make it. The coast here is beautiful, so green with steep hills rising up from blue water, very different from the other island.
The anchorage when we come to it, is very different from the earlier one. That was just along the edge of the island. This is up into a deep bay. There is what looks like a boarding school on the side of the hill but other than that there is no one around. Once the anchor is down and the engine stopped it is quiet, absolutely quiet, the quietest I have ever know. Just quiet. There are a few bird calls but once the sun goes down even those stop. Quiet. Tomorrow is another long day so we turn in early and sleep soundly in the quiet.
Next day the course is across the bay and through a very narrow passage through the reef into the next bay. The day is clear and calm, the sea glassy. A quick motor across the bay and we are in among the reefs. We absolutely love our Navionics app on the iPad. It is absolutely spot on. We have totally come to rely on it in Fiji with reefs everywhere. This passage is one of the trickiest we have had. There are reefs on both sides as we skirt along the edge of the bay. Sometimes they are visible as lines of surf or bits of rock sticking up. Sometimes they look green through our orange polarized glasses. Sometimes we cannot see anything. I take up my position on the bow, just in case and we cruise right along. Takes about an hour to get through and then we can hoist sails and head across the bay and into Savusavu at last.
The weather system that we have been watching is getting bigger and closer. It now has an official tropical depression number, although it is not a cyclone yet. We are not moving until it is well and truly gone. The clock is ticking on Alan’s visa but too bad. We are not going anywhere.
Rewa, the big boat that passed us on the way over, is also anchored here but they plan to move on down farther south tomorrow, before the weather gets really bad. Early in the morning they take off and several hours later they are back. Apparently when they got out of the shelter of the island it was really nasty. By the end of the day, one more boat arrives. So here we are and here we will stay.
The weather is grey and cloudy. We can hear the wind howling in the rigging occasionally strong wind gusts toss us around but the water is calm, smooth, no swells. From time to time it rains. There is nothing on shore except the green of the mangroves. Across the bay is a small cluster of cottages with a pier and a couple of boats. It is just quiet here, very quiet. For 4 days we sit here, reading, playing internet games, cooking, eating, checking the weather reports checking the anchor. Luckily we have a good, strong internet signal. The anchor is in tight and we do not move. It is actually a very odd time. There is nothing to do and not much we can do so we just take a vacation from all of the stress and crazyness of the past weeks.
Finally it looks like the storm is gone. There is a glimpse of brightness in the sky and the internet shows the wind easing off. Rewa is gone early and this time does not come back. We decide to give it one more day. No point taking off while it is still gloomy.
Next morning is glorious. Glad we waited. Blue sky, bright sun, brisk wind. Anchor up and off we go. It is about 40 miles across the notorious Bligh Water to the other main island of Fiji. Once we are out of the reef it is a straight sail across and we settle back and relax and enjoy sailing again after all this time. Of course after all that storminess, there is very little wind and I start to worry that we will not get anchored before dark so we decide to alter course just a little to stop at an earlier anchorage. We have never been here before so we do not know anything about any of them. On the chart one looks as good as the other. However, when we get there it and try to anchor it turns out to be horrible. After 2-3 passes looking for a good spot we give up decide to go on to the next place. It can’t be worse. It is now 4:30. It gets dark about 6:30 and the next anchorage is 7 miles away We should just make it. The coast here is beautiful, so green with steep hills rising up from blue water, very different from the other island.
The anchorage when we come to it, is very different from the earlier one. That was just along the edge of the island. This is up into a deep bay. There is what looks like a boarding school on the side of the hill but other than that there is no one around. Once the anchor is down and the engine stopped it is quiet, absolutely quiet, the quietest I have ever know. Just quiet. There are a few bird calls but once the sun goes down even those stop. Quiet. Tomorrow is another long day so we turn in early and sleep soundly in the quiet.
Next day the course is across the bay and through a very narrow passage through the reef into the next bay. The day is clear and calm, the sea glassy. A quick motor across the bay and we are in among the reefs. We absolutely love our Navionics app on the iPad. It is absolutely spot on. We have totally come to rely on it in Fiji with reefs everywhere. This passage is one of the trickiest we have had. There are reefs on both sides as we skirt along the edge of the bay. Sometimes they are visible as lines of surf or bits of rock sticking up. Sometimes they look green through our orange polarized glasses. Sometimes we cannot see anything. I take up my position on the bow, just in case and we cruise right along. Takes about an hour to get through and then we can hoist sails and head across the bay and into Savusavu at last.
Sunday, October 25, 2015
Oct 12, 2015
Oct 12, 2015 Across the top of Viti Levu
Up and going after a good night’s sleep. This time we are prepared for the wind when we turn the corner. There is a really big wind predicted for the rest of the week so the plan is to get across the top of this island and anchor at the other side to wait out the blow.
As expected, the wind was blowing 25 knots right on the nose. Because we were going through very narrow passes among the reef we could not tack enough to make any difference The short chop and strong swells meant that we were often only moving at 1.5-2 knots, even with the engine cranked up. Luckily the engine worked perfectly, quite a workout for it’s first trip. The sun was out most of the time and it was actually a nice day, the kind Alan loves. I mostly hung out in the cabin to keep warm and out of the wind. About midday we were overtaken by a much larger sailboat, Rewa, that we knew from Vuda They had sails up and raced right by us. 50,000 pounds makes a difference. We weigh just half that.
The last 2 miles were the worst. The wind was getting stronger and stronger and the anchorage was starting to look like it was not going to be much protection from all this wind, let alone what is predicted for the next few days. We could see Rewa ahead. They actually sailed on passed the anchorage we were headed for but then turned back. We talked to them on the radio later and learned that they had intended to go farther but decided it was too windy, even for them. Finally, finally, creeping along at less that a knot we made it into the lea of the small island, Yanutha, just south of the well known backpacker dive spot, Nananu-i-Ra. It does not look like much of an island on the chart but we snuggled up next to the mangroves and dropped anchor in 25 feet of lovely, calm water. We will spend the night here, talk to Rewa again, check the weather and asses our options tomorrow.
Up and going after a good night’s sleep. This time we are prepared for the wind when we turn the corner. There is a really big wind predicted for the rest of the week so the plan is to get across the top of this island and anchor at the other side to wait out the blow.
As expected, the wind was blowing 25 knots right on the nose. Because we were going through very narrow passes among the reef we could not tack enough to make any difference The short chop and strong swells meant that we were often only moving at 1.5-2 knots, even with the engine cranked up. Luckily the engine worked perfectly, quite a workout for it’s first trip. The sun was out most of the time and it was actually a nice day, the kind Alan loves. I mostly hung out in the cabin to keep warm and out of the wind. About midday we were overtaken by a much larger sailboat, Rewa, that we knew from Vuda They had sails up and raced right by us. 50,000 pounds makes a difference. We weigh just half that.
The last 2 miles were the worst. The wind was getting stronger and stronger and the anchorage was starting to look like it was not going to be much protection from all this wind, let alone what is predicted for the next few days. We could see Rewa ahead. They actually sailed on passed the anchorage we were headed for but then turned back. We talked to them on the radio later and learned that they had intended to go farther but decided it was too windy, even for them. Finally, finally, creeping along at less that a knot we made it into the lea of the small island, Yanutha, just south of the well known backpacker dive spot, Nananu-i-Ra. It does not look like much of an island on the chart but we snuggled up next to the mangroves and dropped anchor in 25 feet of lovely, calm water. We will spend the night here, talk to Rewa again, check the weather and asses our options tomorrow.
Oct 10, 2015 Finally out of Vuda
As usual, we planned to leave bright and early and did not get away until noon. It was market day so we treated ourselves to their wonderful bacon and egg sandwiches and bought a few vegetables. Back to the boat and all battened down ready to go, Alan discovered that the fuel dock was sold out of fuel. A monster power catamaran had just taken every last dock. We are only about 10 gallons low, but it would be nice to be full, just in case. When we get to Savusavu we will need to use jerry cans to fill up. Luckily, the man on the boat next to us heard us talking and offered us the 10 gallons that he had in a jerry can. They are not leaving yet and can refill tomorrow. Transferring it took most of an hour.
Once we were under way we realized that it was way to far to get to the first nights anchorage at Vatia Lailai so we headed into Saweni for the night
Next day, early start, nice day, jib up, motor sailed through reef, calm and sunny
Came to the top of the island and turned the corner to discover the wind was howling We had heard that the wind always blows in the Bligh Water (yes, named for Capt Bligh) and it proved to be true on this occasion Luckily we had just taken down the jib. Several people have said the the best place for the first nights stay was in a fairly deep bay just around the point so we headed in. The wind dropped a little as we got closer in but it is coming from the east so we are on a lea shore. And also it gets shallow fast here. Alan picked a spot and we dropped the anchor and backed down to set it. With all the wind it was hard to tell if it was set and unfortunately i had forgotten that I had the fishing line out. There was a sudden jerk that I assumed was the anchor setting but we later found out was the fishing line wrapping around the propeller. Once the anchor was secure, (as we thought) Alan went over the side to survey the damage. The wind was blowing and the boat was bouncing, making it really hard to see or do anything. 100 feet of twisted line was wrapped around the propeller, really tight, so tight that despite repeated attempts with a variety of knives and even a hacksaw, he could not get it off. Luckily it was wrapped around the shaft is such a way that the propeller could turn Luckily, because while he was diving I started to worry that we were drifting to shore. We had set an anchor watch app on the iPad but we had not used it before so when it kept going off we assumed it was set wrong. Finally I got out the hand held depth gage to check. We were in 7 feet! The funny bouncing and jerking that I was feeling was not from the force of wind and waves, we were hitting bottom! Next time Alan came up for air, I told him what was going on and we immediately decided to get out of here.
The wind is blowing so hard, I have to morotr into the wind while Alan raises 150 feet of chain Finally we were clear and headed out of the bay. We are not staying here. Back around the corner we went and as soon as we were on the other side the wind dropped to almost nothing. We went a few miles down the coast and dropped anchor in 25 feet of water up against the mangroves. We could hear the wind howling but the water was smooth and we were no longer on a lea shore.
Once we were under way we realized that it was way to far to get to the first nights anchorage at Vatia Lailai so we headed into Saweni for the night
Next day, early start, nice day, jib up, motor sailed through reef, calm and sunny
Came to the top of the island and turned the corner to discover the wind was howling We had heard that the wind always blows in the Bligh Water (yes, named for Capt Bligh) and it proved to be true on this occasion Luckily we had just taken down the jib. Several people have said the the best place for the first nights stay was in a fairly deep bay just around the point so we headed in. The wind dropped a little as we got closer in but it is coming from the east so we are on a lea shore. And also it gets shallow fast here. Alan picked a spot and we dropped the anchor and backed down to set it. With all the wind it was hard to tell if it was set and unfortunately i had forgotten that I had the fishing line out. There was a sudden jerk that I assumed was the anchor setting but we later found out was the fishing line wrapping around the propeller. Once the anchor was secure, (as we thought) Alan went over the side to survey the damage. The wind was blowing and the boat was bouncing, making it really hard to see or do anything. 100 feet of twisted line was wrapped around the propeller, really tight, so tight that despite repeated attempts with a variety of knives and even a hacksaw, he could not get it off. Luckily it was wrapped around the shaft is such a way that the propeller could turn Luckily, because while he was diving I started to worry that we were drifting to shore. We had set an anchor watch app on the iPad but we had not used it before so when it kept going off we assumed it was set wrong. Finally I got out the hand held depth gage to check. We were in 7 feet! The funny bouncing and jerking that I was feeling was not from the force of wind and waves, we were hitting bottom! Next time Alan came up for air, I told him what was going on and we immediately decided to get out of here.
The wind is blowing so hard, I have to morotr into the wind while Alan raises 150 feet of chain Finally we were clear and headed out of the bay. We are not staying here. Back around the corner we went and as soon as we were on the other side the wind dropped to almost nothing. We went a few miles down the coast and dropped anchor in 25 feet of water up against the mangroves. We could hear the wind howling but the water was smooth and we were no longer on a lea shore.
August and Sept, 2015, Repairs and More Repairs
Repairs and more repairs, August 2015, and September
Warning, this is a long one
We are ready to go again. It is Sunday. We will go up and anchor off of Lautoka tonight. Tomorrow we will take the dingy into town and stock up on groceries and then we are off. We need to get gas first and of course there is someone at the gas dock so we float around waiting our turn and as we do so, Alan realized that the engine is running hot. It has been a little hot ever since the fan belt broke in Waya, but this is really hot. Hot enough that we really should not go without checking it out to find the problem. Darn and double darn. We fill up with gems and it’s back to the slip. And off to the bar for a drink or two. We are jinxed. We are never going to get to Wallis.
Next day, Alan takes a look to see what he can figure out. The water reservoir is milky and smalls funny. The overflow tank is full of black gunk. Luckily there is no water in the oil. No obvious leaks, unfortunately. So it is off to consult with the mechanic. Over the next several days, bit by bit the engine is taken apart and every piece is tested. Of course this is accompanied by much swearing. Bolts break. Bits fall into the bilge. Parts have to come off to get to other parts. Mechanics have other rush jobs and then get sick. And still no obvious cause of the overheating. Alan discovers that he has a brand new water pump and impute packed away so he decides to put them on. He will keep the old ones for spares since they seem to be fine. About day six, we discover that the thermostat is no good. Of course this time there is no spare so now he needs to track one down and have it shipped in from somewhere.
Several days into this, I come down with a dreadful cough and flu and take to the bed for about four days. Seems as good a way as any to spend the time. When I finally have some strength back, I head downtown and spend the day getting a hot stone massage, facial and haircut. Feeling so much better.
Next day i head to town again, this time to see if I can find a new thermostat. I have the old one with me so that I can ask for “one of these” and not have to try to explain. Although it seems like everyone speaks English, when it gets right down to a conversation, it is surprising how often people do not know what it is that I want. As usual, I trekked all over town. Fijian do not like to say no, so everyone sent me to another store which they were sure would have it. Eventually someone told me that there was actually a Perkins dealer, all the way back at the other end of town. When I finally made my way back there, he said that they could order one, but it would come from Singapore and take about 2 weeks. He also said that the old one looked like it was working just fine.
Back at the boat, we decided to put everything back, using the old thermostat and see what happens. Maybe the process of taking everything apart and cleaning it fixed something. everything eventually put back. NOT. Engine started right up and within a few minutes the water in the overflow bottle was bubbling like a tea kettle. We summoned the mechanic again and he said that it is probably the head gasket. Just what everyone else has been saying and Alan did not want to hear. He says that we need to take it all apart again and he will come and take off the head gasket. This time I do it while alan supervises. I love having everything painted different colors. Makes it so much easier to figure out what I am doing. When it is all apart, the mechanic comes and takes the head off. Sure enough, there is rust on the head gasket and several small pits, just enough to allow hot gas to bleed into the exhaust water. The head and the valves are taken off to be polished while we see if we can come up with a new head gasket. We know we have lots of spare gaskets that came with the boat but we have never looked at them to see what is what. Once we did them out we discover 3 all of them rusted. Way back on the passage from Bora Bora to Tonga, we took several big waves that filled the cockpit and splashed right thorough the air vent into the engine room. We have since covered the vent but we are still dealing with the aftermath. We should have ordered the head gasket from the shop in town but another cruiser recommended a place in England called Parts4Engines. They have a huge inventory and great customer service. His parts came in 4 days (to Australia). Should not take that much longer to Fiji, right? So we sent the order and then we waited and waited and waited. Periodically we would get travel updated. Seems our head gasket was taking a world tour; England, Germany, China, Singapore, Australis where it disappeared for several days. Meanwhile we puttered around doing little jobs but not wanting to get involved in anything major in case it suddenly arrives. We are still watching the weather and hoping that we can get to Futuna before cyclone season sets in.
Finally the head gasket arrives, almost 2 weeks later. We rush to the mechanic only to learn that the head and valves which were sent off to be polished are not back. They actually seem quite bemused as to why not. Several phone calls later we are told that they will be on a truck tonight. Don’t know what truck they were on or where it went but it is almost another week before they finally arrive. The mechanic brings every thing to the boat and gets to work, only to discover that one of the bolts is missing. Apparently it was left in Suva (Suva is at the other end of the island, 300 miles away) Eventually, finally, it is done. Alan turns the key and it starts right up. No bubbles inthe water. The temperature gage is normal. We are good!! We just need to put 25 hours on the engine and then come back to have it re-torqued.
25 hours, not too long. Out of the marina and across the bay the long way to Denerau That’s 6 hours. We go in for beer and shrimp. Next day, out sailing around the bay, another 7 hours, half done. Except when we get back we discover way too much water in the bilge. Something is leaking and it is not the hull. Next day, after the engine cools, Alan pokes and looks and cannot find it. Finally We girls take a look, Jacqui from Jean Marie and I. Within minutes I find a hose that does not seem to go anywhere, just an end hanging out. When we trace it back, it turns out to be coming from the anti-syphon valve on the raw water pump. Apparently the valve is either dirty or broken and is no longer anti-syphoning but is just syphoning all of the sea water used to cool the engine right onto the floor under the engine. In the interest of getting Rhapsoody going again, Alan ties it into the cockpit drains where it should drain out the back. We discover the next day, when we again sail around to put more hours on that the drain is not really big enough and instead of just running right out the back it comes up into the cockpit and then runs out. But it should last until we get back to the marina, where it will be one more thing to fix before we can leave.
Finally we have enough hours. We take off for Vuda, across the bay and because we have enough hours, we turn off the engine and sail. After several lovely hours with a brisk wind, we call the marina to tell them we will be coming in and start the engine. Except that the engine won’t start, nothing. We can’t get into the marina without an engine, there are fairly large swells and a good wind. We will need a tow. Back on the radio to the marina who tell us to stand by while they send a boat out for us. There is already another boat on the mooring ball. We cannot drop the anchor because we won’t be able to get it up without the windlass which runs off of the engine. So we heave to to wait and wait and wait. Slowly we drift up the coast past First Landing. Still no one comes to the tow us in. We can see that they have gotten the other boat off of the mooring ball and towed it in. Surely it is our turn. Finally a small boat shows up, not the shore boat that we were expecting but a small pilot boat. After checking out the situation they decide that they need to send a bigger boat, because of the wind and swells. Unfortunately the pilot is in Lautoka having lunch. They will have to call him and wait until he gets here. After some more discussion, Alan decides that we can at least sail back and tie onto the mooring ball, now that it is free. So that is what we do. Alan does a magnificent job of sailing with the jib right to the mooring ball and we tie on to have lunch and wait. After lunch, Alan decides to give it one more try. Lo and behold, it starts right up. So we quickly drop the line and motor in where our old slip is waiting for us.
Next day we got the head re-torqued and had an electrician look at the starter. It got a clean bill of health. Alan and he finally figured out that we neglected to turn off the alternator switch when we turned off the engine and it drained the batteries. Alan also was able to buy a new anti-syphon valve and install it so that is taken care of. Finally, finally 6 weeks later than we planned, we are off to Savusavu and then Futuna. Hope there are no more problems
Warning, this is a long one
We are ready to go again. It is Sunday. We will go up and anchor off of Lautoka tonight. Tomorrow we will take the dingy into town and stock up on groceries and then we are off. We need to get gas first and of course there is someone at the gas dock so we float around waiting our turn and as we do so, Alan realized that the engine is running hot. It has been a little hot ever since the fan belt broke in Waya, but this is really hot. Hot enough that we really should not go without checking it out to find the problem. Darn and double darn. We fill up with gems and it’s back to the slip. And off to the bar for a drink or two. We are jinxed. We are never going to get to Wallis.
Next day, Alan takes a look to see what he can figure out. The water reservoir is milky and smalls funny. The overflow tank is full of black gunk. Luckily there is no water in the oil. No obvious leaks, unfortunately. So it is off to consult with the mechanic. Over the next several days, bit by bit the engine is taken apart and every piece is tested. Of course this is accompanied by much swearing. Bolts break. Bits fall into the bilge. Parts have to come off to get to other parts. Mechanics have other rush jobs and then get sick. And still no obvious cause of the overheating. Alan discovers that he has a brand new water pump and impute packed away so he decides to put them on. He will keep the old ones for spares since they seem to be fine. About day six, we discover that the thermostat is no good. Of course this time there is no spare so now he needs to track one down and have it shipped in from somewhere.
Several days into this, I come down with a dreadful cough and flu and take to the bed for about four days. Seems as good a way as any to spend the time. When I finally have some strength back, I head downtown and spend the day getting a hot stone massage, facial and haircut. Feeling so much better.
Next day i head to town again, this time to see if I can find a new thermostat. I have the old one with me so that I can ask for “one of these” and not have to try to explain. Although it seems like everyone speaks English, when it gets right down to a conversation, it is surprising how often people do not know what it is that I want. As usual, I trekked all over town. Fijian do not like to say no, so everyone sent me to another store which they were sure would have it. Eventually someone told me that there was actually a Perkins dealer, all the way back at the other end of town. When I finally made my way back there, he said that they could order one, but it would come from Singapore and take about 2 weeks. He also said that the old one looked like it was working just fine.
Back at the boat, we decided to put everything back, using the old thermostat and see what happens. Maybe the process of taking everything apart and cleaning it fixed something. everything eventually put back. NOT. Engine started right up and within a few minutes the water in the overflow bottle was bubbling like a tea kettle. We summoned the mechanic again and he said that it is probably the head gasket. Just what everyone else has been saying and Alan did not want to hear. He says that we need to take it all apart again and he will come and take off the head gasket. This time I do it while alan supervises. I love having everything painted different colors. Makes it so much easier to figure out what I am doing. When it is all apart, the mechanic comes and takes the head off. Sure enough, there is rust on the head gasket and several small pits, just enough to allow hot gas to bleed into the exhaust water. The head and the valves are taken off to be polished while we see if we can come up with a new head gasket. We know we have lots of spare gaskets that came with the boat but we have never looked at them to see what is what. Once we did them out we discover 3 all of them rusted. Way back on the passage from Bora Bora to Tonga, we took several big waves that filled the cockpit and splashed right thorough the air vent into the engine room. We have since covered the vent but we are still dealing with the aftermath. We should have ordered the head gasket from the shop in town but another cruiser recommended a place in England called Parts4Engines. They have a huge inventory and great customer service. His parts came in 4 days (to Australia). Should not take that much longer to Fiji, right? So we sent the order and then we waited and waited and waited. Periodically we would get travel updated. Seems our head gasket was taking a world tour; England, Germany, China, Singapore, Australis where it disappeared for several days. Meanwhile we puttered around doing little jobs but not wanting to get involved in anything major in case it suddenly arrives. We are still watching the weather and hoping that we can get to Futuna before cyclone season sets in.
Finally the head gasket arrives, almost 2 weeks later. We rush to the mechanic only to learn that the head and valves which were sent off to be polished are not back. They actually seem quite bemused as to why not. Several phone calls later we are told that they will be on a truck tonight. Don’t know what truck they were on or where it went but it is almost another week before they finally arrive. The mechanic brings every thing to the boat and gets to work, only to discover that one of the bolts is missing. Apparently it was left in Suva (Suva is at the other end of the island, 300 miles away) Eventually, finally, it is done. Alan turns the key and it starts right up. No bubbles inthe water. The temperature gage is normal. We are good!! We just need to put 25 hours on the engine and then come back to have it re-torqued.
25 hours, not too long. Out of the marina and across the bay the long way to Denerau That’s 6 hours. We go in for beer and shrimp. Next day, out sailing around the bay, another 7 hours, half done. Except when we get back we discover way too much water in the bilge. Something is leaking and it is not the hull. Next day, after the engine cools, Alan pokes and looks and cannot find it. Finally We girls take a look, Jacqui from Jean Marie and I. Within minutes I find a hose that does not seem to go anywhere, just an end hanging out. When we trace it back, it turns out to be coming from the anti-syphon valve on the raw water pump. Apparently the valve is either dirty or broken and is no longer anti-syphoning but is just syphoning all of the sea water used to cool the engine right onto the floor under the engine. In the interest of getting Rhapsoody going again, Alan ties it into the cockpit drains where it should drain out the back. We discover the next day, when we again sail around to put more hours on that the drain is not really big enough and instead of just running right out the back it comes up into the cockpit and then runs out. But it should last until we get back to the marina, where it will be one more thing to fix before we can leave.
Finally we have enough hours. We take off for Vuda, across the bay and because we have enough hours, we turn off the engine and sail. After several lovely hours with a brisk wind, we call the marina to tell them we will be coming in and start the engine. Except that the engine won’t start, nothing. We can’t get into the marina without an engine, there are fairly large swells and a good wind. We will need a tow. Back on the radio to the marina who tell us to stand by while they send a boat out for us. There is already another boat on the mooring ball. We cannot drop the anchor because we won’t be able to get it up without the windlass which runs off of the engine. So we heave to to wait and wait and wait. Slowly we drift up the coast past First Landing. Still no one comes to the tow us in. We can see that they have gotten the other boat off of the mooring ball and towed it in. Surely it is our turn. Finally a small boat shows up, not the shore boat that we were expecting but a small pilot boat. After checking out the situation they decide that they need to send a bigger boat, because of the wind and swells. Unfortunately the pilot is in Lautoka having lunch. They will have to call him and wait until he gets here. After some more discussion, Alan decides that we can at least sail back and tie onto the mooring ball, now that it is free. So that is what we do. Alan does a magnificent job of sailing with the jib right to the mooring ball and we tie on to have lunch and wait. After lunch, Alan decides to give it one more try. Lo and behold, it starts right up. So we quickly drop the line and motor in where our old slip is waiting for us.
Next day we got the head re-torqued and had an electrician look at the starter. It got a clean bill of health. Alan and he finally figured out that we neglected to turn off the alternator switch when we turned off the engine and it drained the batteries. Alan also was able to buy a new anti-syphon valve and install it so that is taken care of. Finally, finally 6 weeks later than we planned, we are off to Savusavu and then Futuna. Hope there are no more problems
Sunday, September 20, 2015
Drinking Kava in Fiji
The guide books tell you to have several bundles of yongoda root when you go cruising. This is the root of a pepper plant which is ground to make kava. When you drink it, it makes your mouth all numb and tingly and you feel very relaxed. When you arrive at a village the bundle is to be presented to the chief. According to the guide books you will then be invited to participate in a kava ceremony which makes you a part of that village. However, I know very few cruisers who have actually had that experience. If you are here as a tourist, the tour boats set up a ceremony for your group with all the bells and whistles, including a pitch for money. But if you are here as a cruiser anchoring at small villages, you present your gift, they say thank you and that is it. Unless you stick around for a while, then you are invited to join in everyday kava drinking .
Our first kava ceremony was in Tonga. We were invited to a Sunday church service and meal and promised “Tongan beer” We were picked up on the dock and walked up the hill to a home in a small village where Alan was given a skirt to wear to church. Once we were dressed, we were taken to the Methodist church, just up the road and into a lovely meeting room carpeted in beautiful mats. About 12 older men were seated cross legged in a circle on the floor. I was the only woman and was concerned that I should not be there, but apparently since we were foreign guests it was OK. We were introduced and asked about our trip and then cups of kava were passed around. It was all very formal, with the oldest being served first. You clap before taking the cup. Drink it down in one swig. Clap three time when you are finished and say thank you as you pass it back. Between rounds of kava, there was a lot of quiet discussion, all in Fijian of course. The village chief was there, the minister, the high school math teacher and minister. Apparently they meet every Sunday to discuss village business. After the meeting adjourned and we all headed to the church, we were told that kava is tongan beer.
Our next invite was a birthday party for one of the staff in Fiji. The party was held in the village next to the marina and the guest list was a mix of relatives, friends, co-workers and cruisers. It is a lovely warm night and there is a lavish buffet with local dishes. Wine and beer flow freely, along with mixed drinks. People sat around in small groups and ate and drank. Typical party, just a few things are different. There is no silverware, everything is eaten with the hands. There are very few chairs, mats are spread under a roof supported by poles decorated with palm fiber. Formal dress for men is a sulu, often just a length of cloth tied around the waist and shoes are left at the door.
After a while the kava bowl is brought out. Little by little the locals gather on the mats, the men in a circle and the women to the back with the kids. Most of the cruisers stay with the buffet and alcohol but Alan and I join the kava circle. Kava is prepared by putting the powdered root into a cloth bag and immersing it into the bowl of water where it is swished around and squeezed by hand, over and over until it is the proper strength. Once the bowl is ready, the kava is scooped up with a coconut shell cup and offered in turn to everyone who wishes to partake. You can request high tide, medium or low tide to designate how full you would like your cup to be. Drink it down in one swig, clap three times when done and return the cup so the next person can be served. The kava is room temperature and sort of muddy tasting and leaves a numb feeling in your mouth. This goes on for hours, until the wee hours of the morning. People come and go. There is quiet conversation. Songs are sung. Kids run around until they finally fall asleep. It is a striking contrast to the parties we are used to, where as the alcohol flows the party gets louder and louder and inhibitions fall away. Kava just makes you feel relaxed.
Our next kava party was a fundraiser for the local church. The taxi took us up the road from the marina for a couple of miles dropped us off at the top of a dirt road and left. In the dark, we made our way down a rutted road to where we could see a cluster of lights, having no idea where we were going. As it turned out, the whole of the small village was involved, about 15 families. We asked the way at the first house and were escorted on down the road to the meeting place. It was a one room wooden house with a tin roof, painted yellow inside and carpeted with the lovely mats that they make here. The room was full of people, the men in a loose circle at the front of the room and the women and kids clustered in the back. We had been told to bring a bundle of kava, which we did. After it was presented and blessed it was added to the pile in the back of the room. Later on during the evening Alan noticed that it was being ground up and used. This is actually the first time that our kava has been used while we were present. For whatever reason, I guess because we were guests, I was taken to the front of the room and invited to sit next to the head man. Alan somehow ended up farther back in the room. An enormous bowl was already full of kava and the cups were being passed. even some of the children got some. It was constantly refilled during the evening, each time with the ritual of swishing and squeezing.
We had been told that the evening was a women’s evening, the men cooked the meal and served the women. I gather this does not happen very often in Fiji. Since it is a church fundraiser the hat is passed. Each person that comes puts something in, the amounts are carefully logged and by the time we leave they have collected $550 for the church mission. The women are delighted with the success of “their” evening. I take it that the men will have their evening next month. While there was much discussion of the fact that the men had cooked, there was no food in evidence. Eventually we were asked if we were hungry and when we said that we were, we were given takeout boxes of curry and cassava to eat with our fingers. Several of the women also had boxes of food, but none of the men were eating. I guess the main meal had happened earlier although they say that most people don’t eat much when they are drinking kava, but they do smoke. Smoking seems to be part of the kava ritual.
The highlight of the evening for me was the singing. The women in the back of the room began singing quietly and when they say my big smile, they got louder and more enthusiastically. They sang for almost an hour. Of course the entire evening, all of the conversations and all of the songs, are in Fijian but it really does not seem to matter. I asked what one of the songs was about and found out that the women were challenging the men. to raise more money next month. There was such a lovely spirit of family and community. Kids were in and out. From time to time one of the younger women would take several of the children away, presumably to bed. When we finally decided that it was time for us to go, they sang the traditional good-bye song focus, all the kids came for hugs and they rounded up a car to give us a ride back so we would not have to try to track down a taxi in the dark
Our next kava experience was very different. We are tied up next to a boat that is used for dive trips and a couple of young Fijian men are staying on it as crew. After a hard day’s work, as the sun sets they often get out the kava bowl. Several evenings we have been invited to have a cup with them. Just a bunch of friends sitting around having a drink. At home it would be beer. Here it is kava. The guitars come out and they take turns singing and playing. When I ask the meaning of the songs, they tell me they are love songs, almost all love songs. But I guess that is true in most languages. The protocol is much more relaxed but there is still a “bula” when the cup is handed to you and three claps when done. I can’t say that I really like the taste of kava, but I love the peacefulness and camaraderie that are present when the cup os passed.
The guide books tell you to have several bundles of yongoda root when you go cruising. This is the root of a pepper plant which is ground to make kava. When you drink it, it makes your mouth all numb and tingly and you feel very relaxed. When you arrive at a village the bundle is to be presented to the chief. According to the guide books you will then be invited to participate in a kava ceremony which makes you a part of that village. However, I know very few cruisers who have actually had that experience. If you are here as a tourist, the tour boats set up a ceremony for your group with all the bells and whistles, including a pitch for money. But if you are here as a cruiser anchoring at small villages, you present your gift, they say thank you and that is it. Unless you stick around for a while, then you are invited to join in everyday kava drinking .
Our first kava ceremony was in Tonga. We were invited to a Sunday church service and meal and promised “Tongan beer” We were picked up on the dock and walked up the hill to a home in a small village where Alan was given a skirt to wear to church. Once we were dressed, we were taken to the Methodist church, just up the road and into a lovely meeting room carpeted in beautiful mats. About 12 older men were seated cross legged in a circle on the floor. I was the only woman and was concerned that I should not be there, but apparently since we were foreign guests it was OK. We were introduced and asked about our trip and then cups of kava were passed around. It was all very formal, with the oldest being served first. You clap before taking the cup. Drink it down in one swig. Clap three time when you are finished and say thank you as you pass it back. Between rounds of kava, there was a lot of quiet discussion, all in Fijian of course. The village chief was there, the minister, the high school math teacher and minister. Apparently they meet every Sunday to discuss village business. After the meeting adjourned and we all headed to the church, we were told that kava is tongan beer.
Our next invite was a birthday party for one of the staff in Fiji. The party was held in the village next to the marina and the guest list was a mix of relatives, friends, co-workers and cruisers. It is a lovely warm night and there is a lavish buffet with local dishes. Wine and beer flow freely, along with mixed drinks. People sat around in small groups and ate and drank. Typical party, just a few things are different. There is no silverware, everything is eaten with the hands. There are very few chairs, mats are spread under a roof supported by poles decorated with palm fiber. Formal dress for men is a sulu, often just a length of cloth tied around the waist and shoes are left at the door.
After a while the kava bowl is brought out. Little by little the locals gather on the mats, the men in a circle and the women to the back with the kids. Most of the cruisers stay with the buffet and alcohol but Alan and I join the kava circle. Kava is prepared by putting the powdered root into a cloth bag and immersing it into the bowl of water where it is swished around and squeezed by hand, over and over until it is the proper strength. Once the bowl is ready, the kava is scooped up with a coconut shell cup and offered in turn to everyone who wishes to partake. You can request high tide, medium or low tide to designate how full you would like your cup to be. Drink it down in one swig, clap three times when done and return the cup so the next person can be served. The kava is room temperature and sort of muddy tasting and leaves a numb feeling in your mouth. This goes on for hours, until the wee hours of the morning. People come and go. There is quiet conversation. Songs are sung. Kids run around until they finally fall asleep. It is a striking contrast to the parties we are used to, where as the alcohol flows the party gets louder and louder and inhibitions fall away. Kava just makes you feel relaxed.
Our next kava party was a fundraiser for the local church. The taxi took us up the road from the marina for a couple of miles dropped us off at the top of a dirt road and left. In the dark, we made our way down a rutted road to where we could see a cluster of lights, having no idea where we were going. As it turned out, the whole of the small village was involved, about 15 families. We asked the way at the first house and were escorted on down the road to the meeting place. It was a one room wooden house with a tin roof, painted yellow inside and carpeted with the lovely mats that they make here. The room was full of people, the men in a loose circle at the front of the room and the women and kids clustered in the back. We had been told to bring a bundle of kava, which we did. After it was presented and blessed it was added to the pile in the back of the room. Later on during the evening Alan noticed that it was being ground up and used. This is actually the first time that our kava has been used while we were present. For whatever reason, I guess because we were guests, I was taken to the front of the room and invited to sit next to the head man. Alan somehow ended up farther back in the room. An enormous bowl was already full of kava and the cups were being passed. even some of the children got some. It was constantly refilled during the evening, each time with the ritual of swishing and squeezing.
We had been told that the evening was a women’s evening, the men cooked the meal and served the women. I gather this does not happen very often in Fiji. Since it is a church fundraiser the hat is passed. Each person that comes puts something in, the amounts are carefully logged and by the time we leave they have collected $550 for the church mission. The women are delighted with the success of “their” evening. I take it that the men will have their evening next month. While there was much discussion of the fact that the men had cooked, there was no food in evidence. Eventually we were asked if we were hungry and when we said that we were, we were given takeout boxes of curry and cassava to eat with our fingers. Several of the women also had boxes of food, but none of the men were eating. I guess the main meal had happened earlier although they say that most people don’t eat much when they are drinking kava, but they do smoke. Smoking seems to be part of the kava ritual.
The highlight of the evening for me was the singing. The women in the back of the room began singing quietly and when they say my big smile, they got louder and more enthusiastically. They sang for almost an hour. Of course the entire evening, all of the conversations and all of the songs, are in Fijian but it really does not seem to matter. I asked what one of the songs was about and found out that the women were challenging the men. to raise more money next month. There was such a lovely spirit of family and community. Kids were in and out. From time to time one of the younger women would take several of the children away, presumably to bed. When we finally decided that it was time for us to go, they sang the traditional good-bye song focus, all the kids came for hugs and they rounded up a car to give us a ride back so we would not have to try to track down a taxi in the dark
Our next kava experience was very different. We are tied up next to a boat that is used for dive trips and a couple of young Fijian men are staying on it as crew. After a hard day’s work, as the sun sets they often get out the kava bowl. Several evenings we have been invited to have a cup with them. Just a bunch of friends sitting around having a drink. At home it would be beer. Here it is kava. The guitars come out and they take turns singing and playing. When I ask the meaning of the songs, they tell me they are love songs, almost all love songs. But I guess that is true in most languages. The protocol is much more relaxed but there is still a “bula” when the cup is handed to you and three claps when done. I can’t say that I really like the taste of kava, but I love the peacefulness and camaraderie that are present when the cup os passed.
July 30, 2015 Back to Vuda with transmission problems
Waya to Saweni to Vuda
July 30
Once again, what should have been a good sail turned out to be a day of motoring, dodging reefs. First there was no wind and then the wind was on the nose. It seems like we should be able to tack, even with wind the wrong way but there are so many reefs, many of them uncharted that it just seems easier to motor. Pulled into Saweni Bay in the afternoon and spent the night. Next morning Alan got out the transmission manual and we spent several hours adjusting the coupling on the transmission. Unfortunately it did not seem to fix the problem When we started the engine it took almost 10 minutes to get the transmission into gear, so we decided that we needed to head into Vuda and have it looked at. We knew that there were no slips available. Apparently boats are crammed in everywhere, with several boats being tied along the cement wall in the entrance channel and more at the customs dock. Our plan was to anchor outside and see if one of the mechanics could come and take a look at it. We stopped right outside the entrance, dropped the anchor, launched the dingy, put an anchor light up and headed into shore. Alan went to track down a mechanic while I stopped in the office. Good luck on both parts. The office had found a spot for us “for 2 days only” and the mechanic could come first thing in the morning.
So we headed back out to Rhapsody, started the engine and hoisted the anchor and ….. This time it flat out would not go into gear. So we we were towed in. Slowly, slowly. slowly, right past the bar where all our friends were watching. The tide was running out and the wind was blowing us sideways, but little by little we eased into the channel and finally into a slip. But, we had been put into the slip of a boat that was supposed to be gone for a week. Just as we were tied off, that boat came on the radio saying that they were coming back in. They were told to stand by for 30 minutes while we were towed back off and put into another slip.
Next morning the mechanic came to discuss the situation. It is not going to be an easy fix. The transmission itself has to come out which means the drive shaft needs to be loosened which means we need to come out of the water. And so, we are back in Vuda Marina on the hard again, hopefully just for a day or two while the transmission is fixed. Amazingly there was a brand new transmission on the shelf in the office for slightly more than the cost of parts and labor to fix the old one. Maybe there is a chance this will be a fairly quick fix and we can still get up to Savusavu before bad weather hits again.
When the Drive shaft was loosened and the couplings taken off, it became obvious whey Rhapsody leaks. The fiberglass under the coupling was all gouged and not smooth. It had just been filled in with bedding compound. So while we are out, we will have that patched and smoother with fiberglass and while we are at it, might as well patch the holes where we hit the reef. While the guys were working on the transmission, I decided to give the bottom a good scrubbing. I had forgotten that bottom paint is designed to rub off easily and before too long I was as blue as the boat. I was actually scrubbing off algae but i was also redistrubutatring the bottom paint. Eventually it was done and looked like a new paint job. It took several showers and a load of laundry to get it all off of me and my clothes.
Several days later we are back in the water. A day to clean up and put everything away and we will take off. By the way, it still leaks!
July 30
Once again, what should have been a good sail turned out to be a day of motoring, dodging reefs. First there was no wind and then the wind was on the nose. It seems like we should be able to tack, even with wind the wrong way but there are so many reefs, many of them uncharted that it just seems easier to motor. Pulled into Saweni Bay in the afternoon and spent the night. Next morning Alan got out the transmission manual and we spent several hours adjusting the coupling on the transmission. Unfortunately it did not seem to fix the problem When we started the engine it took almost 10 minutes to get the transmission into gear, so we decided that we needed to head into Vuda and have it looked at. We knew that there were no slips available. Apparently boats are crammed in everywhere, with several boats being tied along the cement wall in the entrance channel and more at the customs dock. Our plan was to anchor outside and see if one of the mechanics could come and take a look at it. We stopped right outside the entrance, dropped the anchor, launched the dingy, put an anchor light up and headed into shore. Alan went to track down a mechanic while I stopped in the office. Good luck on both parts. The office had found a spot for us “for 2 days only” and the mechanic could come first thing in the morning.
So we headed back out to Rhapsody, started the engine and hoisted the anchor and ….. This time it flat out would not go into gear. So we we were towed in. Slowly, slowly. slowly, right past the bar where all our friends were watching. The tide was running out and the wind was blowing us sideways, but little by little we eased into the channel and finally into a slip. But, we had been put into the slip of a boat that was supposed to be gone for a week. Just as we were tied off, that boat came on the radio saying that they were coming back in. They were told to stand by for 30 minutes while we were towed back off and put into another slip.
Next morning the mechanic came to discuss the situation. It is not going to be an easy fix. The transmission itself has to come out which means the drive shaft needs to be loosened which means we need to come out of the water. And so, we are back in Vuda Marina on the hard again, hopefully just for a day or two while the transmission is fixed. Amazingly there was a brand new transmission on the shelf in the office for slightly more than the cost of parts and labor to fix the old one. Maybe there is a chance this will be a fairly quick fix and we can still get up to Savusavu before bad weather hits again.
When the Drive shaft was loosened and the couplings taken off, it became obvious whey Rhapsody leaks. The fiberglass under the coupling was all gouged and not smooth. It had just been filled in with bedding compound. So while we are out, we will have that patched and smoother with fiberglass and while we are at it, might as well patch the holes where we hit the reef. While the guys were working on the transmission, I decided to give the bottom a good scrubbing. I had forgotten that bottom paint is designed to rub off easily and before too long I was as blue as the boat. I was actually scrubbing off algae but i was also redistrubutatring the bottom paint. Eventually it was done and looked like a new paint job. It took several showers and a load of laundry to get it all off of me and my clothes.
Several days later we are back in the water. A day to clean up and put everything away and we will take off. By the way, it still leaks!
July 25, Waya north to Waya south
July 25, 2015 Waya north to Yalobi Bay
Moving on the next day, from the north end of Waya to the south. I am starting to get nervous about the transmission. It takes several tries before it goes into gear. When it is time to pull up the anchor, Alan goes to the front of the boat to operate the windlass while I stay on the helm, ready to put it into gear and move out as soon as the anchor is off the ground. Depending on the wind and tide and other boats around, this can be easy or tricky. Basically, I want to hold position until he gets the anchor all the way up and tied down. then I can give it gas and move out. We don’t want to be moving very fast with a heavy anchor swinging free. But if it does not go into gear, I can start drifting onto other boats or the shore.
This was just a short motor sail and we did not even go ashore when we arrived. Tomorrow we will get an early start and cut across the bay to the mainland. We will stop for gas and provisions and then head to Savusavu and check out for Wallis. Unfortunately during the night the chain managed to wrap itself around a rock and in the morning we could not get it up. Luckily there were several other boats anchored in the bay and one of them came over to give us a hand. Slowly, slowly, pulling and backing, we worked it free. Only took about a half hour.
Instead of heading back to Vuda the next day we decided to just go across the bay to the village on the other side of the bay. We had stopped there on the way up and when we went ashore this time we were greeted like old friends My reason for returning here was to talk to the chief. I realized that we have almost never taken the time to just talk and ask them about what life is like here. We were taken straight to Chief Joe where we spent over an hour. It was fascinating to hear stories of when he was a child. Other people drifted in to listen. Some of his grandchildren did not know about the things he was telling us. There used to be three or four different kinds of yams. Now they only grow one. The men and women had separate fields to tend and different kinds of baskets to carry their crops in. When he was a child they almost never saw white people and when white people came they hid the children because they did not know what they would do.
When it was time to go, we were loaded up with fresh fruit. We had to wait while they wove a basket for us to carry it in. The younger people invited themselves out to the boat for a visit. As usual, they were intrigued and delighted with such a compact home. But the best was when they spotted our iPads. They immediately asked if we had games and went straight to Plants vs Zombies, Solitaire and Mahjong. Times have really changed since Chief Joe was a kid.
Moving on the next day, from the north end of Waya to the south. I am starting to get nervous about the transmission. It takes several tries before it goes into gear. When it is time to pull up the anchor, Alan goes to the front of the boat to operate the windlass while I stay on the helm, ready to put it into gear and move out as soon as the anchor is off the ground. Depending on the wind and tide and other boats around, this can be easy or tricky. Basically, I want to hold position until he gets the anchor all the way up and tied down. then I can give it gas and move out. We don’t want to be moving very fast with a heavy anchor swinging free. But if it does not go into gear, I can start drifting onto other boats or the shore.
This was just a short motor sail and we did not even go ashore when we arrived. Tomorrow we will get an early start and cut across the bay to the mainland. We will stop for gas and provisions and then head to Savusavu and check out for Wallis. Unfortunately during the night the chain managed to wrap itself around a rock and in the morning we could not get it up. Luckily there were several other boats anchored in the bay and one of them came over to give us a hand. Slowly, slowly, pulling and backing, we worked it free. Only took about a half hour.
Instead of heading back to Vuda the next day we decided to just go across the bay to the village on the other side of the bay. We had stopped there on the way up and when we went ashore this time we were greeted like old friends My reason for returning here was to talk to the chief. I realized that we have almost never taken the time to just talk and ask them about what life is like here. We were taken straight to Chief Joe where we spent over an hour. It was fascinating to hear stories of when he was a child. Other people drifted in to listen. Some of his grandchildren did not know about the things he was telling us. There used to be three or four different kinds of yams. Now they only grow one. The men and women had separate fields to tend and different kinds of baskets to carry their crops in. When he was a child they almost never saw white people and when white people came they hid the children because they did not know what they would do.
When it was time to go, we were loaded up with fresh fruit. We had to wait while they wove a basket for us to carry it in. The younger people invited themselves out to the boat for a visit. As usual, they were intrigued and delighted with such a compact home. But the best was when they spotted our iPads. They immediately asked if we had games and went straight to Plants vs Zombies, Solitaire and Mahjong. Times have really changed since Chief Joe was a kid.
July 23, 2015 Somosomo to Waya, Fiji
July 23, 2015
Somosomo to Waya
Next day we headed on south, hoping to get into a more protected bay before the strong winds which were predicted came up. Once again we were foiled in our attempt to sail and motored most of the way. There are lots of reefs along this stretch and it was necessary to keep a sharp lookout. There were waves breaking on the reefs on both sides of us but Alan steered a good course and we pulled into Rurugu Bay at the north end of Waya with no incidents. The bay was filled with boats from the ICA but we managed to find a spot. Several more boats came in after us and we were all anchored pretty close together. That night the wind came up and we all tossed around but luckily no one dragged and in the morning several of the other boats took off, giving us some breathing room. Last time we were here, Captain Ame had asked for charts to use to teach navigation to the young men in the village so we decided to stop by and see how he was doing. It is going well. Other cruisers have gotten the word and have also donated books and charts. He is teaching every evening.
Octopus Resort is just over the hill from this village and many of the villagers work there. We had heard that there was a path and set out to follow it. We started off fine, concrete steps up from the beach and along the waterfront. There was one point where another path branched off but it did not look very well maintained so we continued on our way. Before too much longer we heard squealing and suddenly found ourselves in a pig farm. Pigs were everywhere. Most of them in rough cages made out of sticks pounded into the ground but a number of them running around loose. Along with the big ones, there were lots of babies. Suddenly we realized… tourist resort = traditional Fijian feast every week = need lots of pigs. On we went, through the pigs and across a field and past a cemetery until we came to a little house set on the beach where we were loudly accosted by Joe. We were invited to come into his house and sit and eat papaya and talk. He lives way out here alone and does not get many visitors. Eventually we decided we needed to get going. When he asked where we were going we said Octopus . Then we realized that his house is all the way at the end of the beach against the hill. There is no way to go farther along the beach. We had missed the path. After teasing us and laughing, Joe summoned a young girl and told her to guide us back to the main path and make sure we did not get lost again.
So back through the trees and up the hill until we cam to the main path where she decided that we would be able to find our way. Up the hill on a rutted dirt path which changed to cement steps at the top, sort of like crossing a county line. We arrived at the resort as the supply ship was unloading. It was a fairly breezy day and the little supply boat was anchored just outside the breaker line, bouncing around. The tailgate was down and 50 gallon drums were rolled off the boat and into the ocean. The hotel staff was in the water and as each drum came splashing down they grabbed it and swam it to shore where another team pushed it out of the water and rolled it up the beach. The resort was charming with a pool and sand floored restaurant. After an excellent lunch, we climbed back up the hill and down the other side. Just as we reached the top of the hill we got a facetime call from Audrey and the boys. So there we were, on top of a hill on an island in the South Pacific talking to California, realtime with video. Love it.
Somosomo to Waya
Next day we headed on south, hoping to get into a more protected bay before the strong winds which were predicted came up. Once again we were foiled in our attempt to sail and motored most of the way. There are lots of reefs along this stretch and it was necessary to keep a sharp lookout. There were waves breaking on the reefs on both sides of us but Alan steered a good course and we pulled into Rurugu Bay at the north end of Waya with no incidents. The bay was filled with boats from the ICA but we managed to find a spot. Several more boats came in after us and we were all anchored pretty close together. That night the wind came up and we all tossed around but luckily no one dragged and in the morning several of the other boats took off, giving us some breathing room. Last time we were here, Captain Ame had asked for charts to use to teach navigation to the young men in the village so we decided to stop by and see how he was doing. It is going well. Other cruisers have gotten the word and have also donated books and charts. He is teaching every evening.
Octopus Resort is just over the hill from this village and many of the villagers work there. We had heard that there was a path and set out to follow it. We started off fine, concrete steps up from the beach and along the waterfront. There was one point where another path branched off but it did not look very well maintained so we continued on our way. Before too much longer we heard squealing and suddenly found ourselves in a pig farm. Pigs were everywhere. Most of them in rough cages made out of sticks pounded into the ground but a number of them running around loose. Along with the big ones, there were lots of babies. Suddenly we realized… tourist resort = traditional Fijian feast every week = need lots of pigs. On we went, through the pigs and across a field and past a cemetery until we came to a little house set on the beach where we were loudly accosted by Joe. We were invited to come into his house and sit and eat papaya and talk. He lives way out here alone and does not get many visitors. Eventually we decided we needed to get going. When he asked where we were going we said Octopus . Then we realized that his house is all the way at the end of the beach against the hill. There is no way to go farther along the beach. We had missed the path. After teasing us and laughing, Joe summoned a young girl and told her to guide us back to the main path and make sure we did not get lost again.
So back through the trees and up the hill until we cam to the main path where she decided that we would be able to find our way. Up the hill on a rutted dirt path which changed to cement steps at the top, sort of like crossing a county line. We arrived at the resort as the supply ship was unloading. It was a fairly breezy day and the little supply boat was anchored just outside the breaker line, bouncing around. The tailgate was down and 50 gallon drums were rolled off the boat and into the ocean. The hotel staff was in the water and as each drum came splashing down they grabbed it and swam it to shore where another team pushed it out of the water and rolled it up the beach. The resort was charming with a pool and sand floored restaurant. After an excellent lunch, we climbed back up the hill and down the other side. Just as we reached the top of the hill we got a facetime call from Audrey and the boys. So there we were, on top of a hill on an island in the South Pacific talking to California, realtime with video. Love it.
Monday, August 24, 2015
July 21, 2015 Blue Lagoon to Somosomo
July 21, 2015 Sunday Blue Lagoon to Somosomo
It is a beautiful day for our short motor down to Somosomo Bay. Tis time we are the only boat in the bay. It is Sunday night and we can hear loud music and preaching from shore. Apparently there is a revival service going on. i am sorry to miss it but I am not feeling too well, just a slightly queasy stomach, so we just stay on board and enjoy the music from a distance. Next morning we headed into the village. This is the first time that we have been to this village some take a bundle of kava root for the chief. As usual, there were people on the beach to welcome us and guide us to the chief. Surprisingly, this time the chief is a woman. First time we have encountered a woman chief. We were received in the main room of her house where she was seated on a mattress on the floor, covered with brightly colored fabric. On the wall behind her was an extraordinary tapa cloth, about 10 feet square, covered with intricate patterns. While I have seen some tapa cloth in the tourist stores, this is the first time I have actually seen one being used in a home. We learned that she had made it herself. She was a delightful old woman, looked to be about 80years old, full of questions about where we were from an what we thought of Fiji. She had a guest book for us to sign which stated that we were expected to give $10 for the general village fund. Unfortunately we had not brought any cash with us, not expecting to need any. We were offered pieces of breadfruit to eat. and then told that it was time for us to leave because she was going to have lunch.
Our guide for the village tour turned out to be from the mainland His mother and father had separated years ago and he had been living with his grandmother on the mainland and going to school. He was just here to visit his father and had been pressed into tour guide duty. It is not uncommon for the children from the islands to be sent to the mainland to live with relatives and go to school. Many of them never get back.
This village was distinguished by large numbers of solar panels. Every house had a tall metal pole with the panels mounted on top. We learned that three of the seven villages on Naviti now have extensive solar arrays. The government paid half of the cost and the village raised the rest. Little by little they intend to get solar to all the villages. It was altogether a very neat, tidy village, somehow seeming more prosperous than some of the ones we have seen.
Once we were through with the tour we wandered down the beach where we came across a small backpacker resort. The staff were having lunch while the young people played games and laughed and flirted and did all those things that teenagers do when they are out on their own. We were invited to sit down and join the staff for lunch, tuna mixed with chopped cucumbers and onions dressed with cocoanut cream. As we chatted about life in the village I asked if it was possible to find clams along the shore. Shortly I found myself following one of the women out into the water to see what we could find. Other times when I have dug for clams, I have looked for soft mud, then shuffled my feet along until I felt the rounded shape of the clam with my toes. This time, we walked along in an inch or two of water over hard sand and rock. My guide carries a long knife and studied the sand carefully. From time to time, the knife would shoot down and then be raised up with a clam clinging to the tip. She was seeing just the edge of the shell buried in the sand. When she slid her knife into the opening, the clam snapped shut and was caught on the knife blade. Try as I might, I could not see them. I only found one the whole time we were out, but we came back with a large bag full. Dinner that night was bouillabaisse using the clams, a small fish that swam into the crab trap and a lobster sold to us by a couple of young men who cam by in a boat
When it was time to go, the ladies asked if they could come see the boat, so of course we said yes. They were charmed and amazed to see how compact it is. When Alan ran them ashore again, he got involved in helping to fix the school boat that takes the kids from this village to the next for school every day. And then the men wanted to know if we had any fish hooks. I was glad to share since I almost never use anything but the cedar plug for trolling. All in all, we left Somosomo the next day feeling like we had been adopted into the village.
It is a beautiful day for our short motor down to Somosomo Bay. Tis time we are the only boat in the bay. It is Sunday night and we can hear loud music and preaching from shore. Apparently there is a revival service going on. i am sorry to miss it but I am not feeling too well, just a slightly queasy stomach, so we just stay on board and enjoy the music from a distance. Next morning we headed into the village. This is the first time that we have been to this village some take a bundle of kava root for the chief. As usual, there were people on the beach to welcome us and guide us to the chief. Surprisingly, this time the chief is a woman. First time we have encountered a woman chief. We were received in the main room of her house where she was seated on a mattress on the floor, covered with brightly colored fabric. On the wall behind her was an extraordinary tapa cloth, about 10 feet square, covered with intricate patterns. While I have seen some tapa cloth in the tourist stores, this is the first time I have actually seen one being used in a home. We learned that she had made it herself. She was a delightful old woman, looked to be about 80years old, full of questions about where we were from an what we thought of Fiji. She had a guest book for us to sign which stated that we were expected to give $10 for the general village fund. Unfortunately we had not brought any cash with us, not expecting to need any. We were offered pieces of breadfruit to eat. and then told that it was time for us to leave because she was going to have lunch.
Our guide for the village tour turned out to be from the mainland His mother and father had separated years ago and he had been living with his grandmother on the mainland and going to school. He was just here to visit his father and had been pressed into tour guide duty. It is not uncommon for the children from the islands to be sent to the mainland to live with relatives and go to school. Many of them never get back.
This village was distinguished by large numbers of solar panels. Every house had a tall metal pole with the panels mounted on top. We learned that three of the seven villages on Naviti now have extensive solar arrays. The government paid half of the cost and the village raised the rest. Little by little they intend to get solar to all the villages. It was altogether a very neat, tidy village, somehow seeming more prosperous than some of the ones we have seen.
Once we were through with the tour we wandered down the beach where we came across a small backpacker resort. The staff were having lunch while the young people played games and laughed and flirted and did all those things that teenagers do when they are out on their own. We were invited to sit down and join the staff for lunch, tuna mixed with chopped cucumbers and onions dressed with cocoanut cream. As we chatted about life in the village I asked if it was possible to find clams along the shore. Shortly I found myself following one of the women out into the water to see what we could find. Other times when I have dug for clams, I have looked for soft mud, then shuffled my feet along until I felt the rounded shape of the clam with my toes. This time, we walked along in an inch or two of water over hard sand and rock. My guide carries a long knife and studied the sand carefully. From time to time, the knife would shoot down and then be raised up with a clam clinging to the tip. She was seeing just the edge of the shell buried in the sand. When she slid her knife into the opening, the clam snapped shut and was caught on the knife blade. Try as I might, I could not see them. I only found one the whole time we were out, but we came back with a large bag full. Dinner that night was bouillabaisse using the clams, a small fish that swam into the crab trap and a lobster sold to us by a couple of young men who cam by in a boat
When it was time to go, the ladies asked if they could come see the boat, so of course we said yes. They were charmed and amazed to see how compact it is. When Alan ran them ashore again, he got involved in helping to fix the school boat that takes the kids from this village to the next for school every day. And then the men wanted to know if we had any fish hooks. I was glad to share since I almost never use anything but the cedar plug for trolling. All in all, we left Somosomo the next day feeling like we had been adopted into the village.
July 20, 2015 Blue Lagoon 2
July 20, 2015 Blue lagoon, part 2
All in all, we spent more than 2 weeks in Blue Lagoon. Some days hiking or snorkling. Some days hanging out on the boat. The weather was OK, not clear and hot but not too windy most of the time. We had one night of rain. I have to keep reminding myself that it is winter here. The cruise boat came in and tied up to a cocoanut tree. Passengers came ashore for a dinner and show. After a couple of days they left. Next week they were back again. Seaplanes, helicopters, ferry boats and supply boats come and go. Cruisers came and went. Our little fleet broke up with the other two boats heading off in different directions while we decided to stay longer. A number of boats from the ICA, Island Cruising Association in New Zealand arrived and anchored close to us. New Zealand is so close that cruisers come up here for a month or two every year. It is a different style of cruising when you are just out for a few months. Even though there is a long and potentially rough passage involved, it is not the same as being on the way for several years.
Work on Nanuya Resort continues , with more progress every day. They are planning on putting in 25 mooring boys as soon as they get permission from everyone. I expect we will find it all changed if we get back again. One night a week they offer the traditional pig roast feast and floor show. We were spoiled by the professional quality of dancing in The Societies and these, while charming, have a much more down home flavor.
Finally we decide that it is time to leave. There is a reasonably good weather window to head south, back to Lautoka where we can stock up on supplies again. Rhapsody is allowed to stay in Fiji for 18 months, with no renewal. Her time will be up March 15 next year. That is still within the potential for cyclones so we have decided that we will head up to Savusavu, check out of the country and go north about 250 miles to the next country, Wallis/Futuna. We have friends who went there and they say it is charming. Two islands owned by the French which means good bread and pastries. Once we have checked in there we can come back to Fiji and have another 18 months before we have to leave. This will give us time to explore the other side of Fiji before we head on, wherever our trip takes us next. If we get going now we can be back in time for the Musket Cove Regatta, early in September.
All in all, we spent more than 2 weeks in Blue Lagoon. Some days hiking or snorkling. Some days hanging out on the boat. The weather was OK, not clear and hot but not too windy most of the time. We had one night of rain. I have to keep reminding myself that it is winter here. The cruise boat came in and tied up to a cocoanut tree. Passengers came ashore for a dinner and show. After a couple of days they left. Next week they were back again. Seaplanes, helicopters, ferry boats and supply boats come and go. Cruisers came and went. Our little fleet broke up with the other two boats heading off in different directions while we decided to stay longer. A number of boats from the ICA, Island Cruising Association in New Zealand arrived and anchored close to us. New Zealand is so close that cruisers come up here for a month or two every year. It is a different style of cruising when you are just out for a few months. Even though there is a long and potentially rough passage involved, it is not the same as being on the way for several years.
Work on Nanuya Resort continues , with more progress every day. They are planning on putting in 25 mooring boys as soon as they get permission from everyone. I expect we will find it all changed if we get back again. One night a week they offer the traditional pig roast feast and floor show. We were spoiled by the professional quality of dancing in The Societies and these, while charming, have a much more down home flavor.
Finally we decide that it is time to leave. There is a reasonably good weather window to head south, back to Lautoka where we can stock up on supplies again. Rhapsody is allowed to stay in Fiji for 18 months, with no renewal. Her time will be up March 15 next year. That is still within the potential for cyclones so we have decided that we will head up to Savusavu, check out of the country and go north about 250 miles to the next country, Wallis/Futuna. We have friends who went there and they say it is charming. Two islands owned by the French which means good bread and pastries. Once we have checked in there we can come back to Fiji and have another 18 months before we have to leave. This will give us time to explore the other side of Fiji before we head on, wherever our trip takes us next. If we get going now we can be back in time for the Musket Cove Regatta, early in September.
July 7, 2015 Blue Lagoon, Coral View Resort
I took my charts into the bar and asked the staff and locals for recommendations of places to go. Oe of the places suggested was Coral View Resort, just across the Lagoon and out on the point. Among other things, it was said to have a market where we could get bread and eggs. So next time we got a clear and not too windy morning we headed off to see what we could find. The trip, of course, had us bouncing over waves and threading our way through reefs. Eventually we rounded a point and saw a cluster of buildings and a breakwater. The channel was barely 4 feet wide and not much deeper but inside was a lovely sandy beach with a couple of shore boats drawn up. Steps led up from the beach to a wide wooden veranda built around a couple of large trees. There was a dive shop, a large dining area and kitchen and the market. wonder of wonders, they even served cappuccino and muffins for $2.50 each. Of course, we had an elevenses. What a wonderful, peaceful spot. There are a number of lovely cottages scattered around the tree shaded ground. The guests are young backpackers from a variety of countries. The staff as friendly as everyone in Fiji always is. We were surprised when one of them addressed us by name and said he had recognized George (our dingy) Turns out he works part of the time in Vuda and remembered us from there. We spent several hours sleeping on the beach, collecting shells. Turns out this is a nursery and sanctuary for giant clams. We had not brought our snorkel gear with us so we will have to come back again to see them. Just after lunch an shore boat turned up and the backpackers shouldered their packs and waded through the surf and climbed aboard as the staff sang the traditional leaving song, isa lei. We stocked up on groceries and headed back in the afternoon.
On our second trip we arrive at high tide and quickly don our snorkel gear and head out to find the giant clams. We drift along over beautiful, multicolored coral with scores of bright colorful fish. And then suddenly there are the clams. They are huge, al least 6 feet across. The flesh is studded with bright florescent spots, green, blue, purple. In the center of each is a round dark opening that looks like and eye. Actually it is a mouth but it is hard to escape the feeling that they are watching us. After an hour or so we swam back to shore and had pizza, hamburger and cold beer for lunch. As we were relaxing after lunch a larger shore boat arrived and anchored just outside of the breakwater. This was the supply ship bring provisions for the store and the kitchen. The smaller boats went out to meet it and soon were ferrying bags and boxes and crates of groceries ashore. They would load up the small boats and bring them into the beach where the staff formed a chain and carried them up into the beck to be inventoried. It was all done with lots of good humor and teasing. Not hurried but moving steadily it took over an hour to get everything off. Alan and I sat in the shade and ate ice cream and watched. When they were all done, we moved into the store to make our purchases, loaded up George and headed back to Rhapsody. A lovely, lovely place, one of our favorite places in Fiji.
I took my charts into the bar and asked the staff and locals for recommendations of places to go. Oe of the places suggested was Coral View Resort, just across the Lagoon and out on the point. Among other things, it was said to have a market where we could get bread and eggs. So next time we got a clear and not too windy morning we headed off to see what we could find. The trip, of course, had us bouncing over waves and threading our way through reefs. Eventually we rounded a point and saw a cluster of buildings and a breakwater. The channel was barely 4 feet wide and not much deeper but inside was a lovely sandy beach with a couple of shore boats drawn up. Steps led up from the beach to a wide wooden veranda built around a couple of large trees. There was a dive shop, a large dining area and kitchen and the market. wonder of wonders, they even served cappuccino and muffins for $2.50 each. Of course, we had an elevenses. What a wonderful, peaceful spot. There are a number of lovely cottages scattered around the tree shaded ground. The guests are young backpackers from a variety of countries. The staff as friendly as everyone in Fiji always is. We were surprised when one of them addressed us by name and said he had recognized George (our dingy) Turns out he works part of the time in Vuda and remembered us from there. We spent several hours sleeping on the beach, collecting shells. Turns out this is a nursery and sanctuary for giant clams. We had not brought our snorkel gear with us so we will have to come back again to see them. Just after lunch an shore boat turned up and the backpackers shouldered their packs and waded through the surf and climbed aboard as the staff sang the traditional leaving song, isa lei. We stocked up on groceries and headed back in the afternoon.
On our second trip we arrive at high tide and quickly don our snorkel gear and head out to find the giant clams. We drift along over beautiful, multicolored coral with scores of bright colorful fish. And then suddenly there are the clams. They are huge, al least 6 feet across. The flesh is studded with bright florescent spots, green, blue, purple. In the center of each is a round dark opening that looks like and eye. Actually it is a mouth but it is hard to escape the feeling that they are watching us. After an hour or so we swam back to shore and had pizza, hamburger and cold beer for lunch. As we were relaxing after lunch a larger shore boat arrived and anchored just outside of the breakwater. This was the supply ship bring provisions for the store and the kitchen. The smaller boats went out to meet it and soon were ferrying bags and boxes and crates of groceries ashore. They would load up the small boats and bring them into the beach where the staff formed a chain and carried them up into the beck to be inventoried. It was all done with lots of good humor and teasing. Not hurried but moving steadily it took over an hour to get everything off. Alan and I sat in the shade and ate ice cream and watched. When they were all done, we moved into the store to make our purchases, loaded up George and headed back to Rhapsody. A lovely, lovely place, one of our favorite places in Fiji.
July 4, 2015 Naviti to Blue Lagoon
For the last time we are up early and underway by 8am. This is another day of weaving inside of the reefs and there is much radio chatter about just exactly where the shallow spots are. No one’s charts seem to agree. I finally get out the maps that I got from the Land Commission Office in Lautoka. My theory is that these are the official government maps having to do with ownership of the land and in Fiji the village owns the reef, unlike the US where ownership stops at the high tide line. Sure enough, they are remarkably well detailed. No depths are shown but you can see every reef. Finally, we are through the reefs, around a large rock and iinto a lovely sheltered bay between several islands. The wind drops, the sun comes out. We weave our way around still more reefs and drop anchor just off of a new resort, once again in 50 feet of water. Finally we get to relax. We are staying here for at least a week
This turns out to be a charming resort, very friendly and welcoming. A dozen or so bures for guests, a restaurant and a waterside bar with cold beer at reasonable prices and 2 large TVs where the staff gather to watch rugby and wonderful hot showers. Apparently there is a new owner and work is going on apace. A concrete launch ramp is being put in, gardens planted, lights put in, a farm established on the hills. Every day there is noticeable progress. The more we learn the more we are impressed. There is a massive solar array on the top of the hill. and also a large water desalination plant. They have a glass crusher and all of the bottles are pulverized and mixed with the cement. When they are through with all the cement work, the ground glass sand will be added to the reefs. Food waste is taken home by employees and fed to the pigs and chickens. Paper is burned. I did not find out what they do with metal but I expect that have that covered. This is the way all resorts should be built.
On the other side of the island is a backpacker resort and a number of the backpackers showed up on our side of the hill for a cold beer and hot shower. Eventually we walked over to investigate. Basic huts are scattered along the beach. There is no hot water and no electricity One building hosts a large dining hall where commercial meals are served. The one consistency is the friendly people. Everyone knows everyone else and they all keep an eye on visitors. We were greeted warmly and given a tour and a bag of fruit to take with us. One of the island dogs escorted us on our walk home, checking to be sure we were going the right way.
A neighboring island is not quite so friendly. Posted signs proclaim “Private Property, No Trespassing” Apparently this is Turtle Island, the playground of the rich and famous, very private and exclusive. From time to time helicopters and seaplanes arrived and departed. We had been out exploring in the dingy and missed the signs when we landed on the beach, but before too long security guards showed up and invited us to leave. Not important. There are plenty of other beaches to explore. Just at the end of our island in another private beach belonging to Blue Lagoon Cruise Lines. This sign is much friendlier and says to leave the beach clear for the cruise guests when the ship is anchored there and otherwise to enjoy respectfully. The reef here is teaming with colorful fish. I think they must feed them to be sure that the tourists have a rich snorkeling experience
The first several days here are cloudy and windy, and we just stay on the boat but eventually the weather clears a little. We had heard that there is a farm here somewhere, where we can buy fresh produce. After 2 weeks cruising we are out of everything, so when the wind finally lets up we head off to see if we can find it. It is a long, wet dingy ride across the lagoon, through the reefs, around the point and up into a deep sheltered bay. Our directions were to go to the head of the bay at high tide and head up the river into the mangroves. Sure enough, there we a narrow opening and a shallow, muddy river winding inland. At the head of the river is a lovely sailing dingy which turns out to belong to the owner of the farm.
The farm itself is delightful. Several acres scattered over the hill, linked by winding paths. We follow the farmer from plot to plot as he harvests our groceries. We get lettuce, tomatoes, cassava, papaya, bananas, basil, cilantro, green onions, boo choy, The bananas are actually plantains because we have learned that they last much longer than regular bananas. Even when the outsides turn black the inside is firm and tasty. I had intended to get just a hand but Alan decides that we should take the whole stalk. We eat bananas constantly for the next month. The lettuce and cilantro and green onions have their roots left on so when we get back to the boat I fill a baking pan with water and start a mini hydroponic farm on board. The lettuce and onions last for 2 weeks. The cilantro does not do so well so I decide to have chili and tortillas for dinner the next night and use it all up. It is impossible to get corn tortillas here but I have masa and my tortilla press from Mexico.
When we are finished at the farm we spend some time exploring the bay. There is a charming backpacker resort and a large school. Interestingly, the school is owned and staffed by the catholic church but paid for by the government. Several places around the bay I notice piles of clam shells and cockles are listed on the menu at the backpacker resort so we decide to come back at low tide to try our luck. Although there have been clam shells on the beaches every where, this is the first time I have seen that they are actually dug for food. Several times before I have showed the shells to the locals and asked if they were good to eat and have been met with blank stares or head shakes so it is great to know that at least here they do eat them.
We watch the weather and the tides carefully for the next few days and finally make our way back. Once more it is a wet ride. By now I have learned to wear my frog jacket to keep dry. It is not cold but it is nicer not to arrive soaking wet. The tide is out this time so instead of going right up onto shore like we did on our last trip, we anchor the dingy several hundred yards off shore and walk over the mud flats to where a young fijan woman and her little boy are collecting clams. The clams are thick, lying on top of the mud or just slightly buried. When I ask if it is OK to collect them, she begins giving me handfuls from her basket. Before long I have a bag full of little clams, about as big as a quarter. That night we make clam chowder. It takes forever to clean them and pick the meat out but the results are wonderful. Alan declares it not quite as good as the legendary Canon Beach chowder, but quite delicious.
For the last time we are up early and underway by 8am. This is another day of weaving inside of the reefs and there is much radio chatter about just exactly where the shallow spots are. No one’s charts seem to agree. I finally get out the maps that I got from the Land Commission Office in Lautoka. My theory is that these are the official government maps having to do with ownership of the land and in Fiji the village owns the reef, unlike the US where ownership stops at the high tide line. Sure enough, they are remarkably well detailed. No depths are shown but you can see every reef. Finally, we are through the reefs, around a large rock and iinto a lovely sheltered bay between several islands. The wind drops, the sun comes out. We weave our way around still more reefs and drop anchor just off of a new resort, once again in 50 feet of water. Finally we get to relax. We are staying here for at least a week
This turns out to be a charming resort, very friendly and welcoming. A dozen or so bures for guests, a restaurant and a waterside bar with cold beer at reasonable prices and 2 large TVs where the staff gather to watch rugby and wonderful hot showers. Apparently there is a new owner and work is going on apace. A concrete launch ramp is being put in, gardens planted, lights put in, a farm established on the hills. Every day there is noticeable progress. The more we learn the more we are impressed. There is a massive solar array on the top of the hill. and also a large water desalination plant. They have a glass crusher and all of the bottles are pulverized and mixed with the cement. When they are through with all the cement work, the ground glass sand will be added to the reefs. Food waste is taken home by employees and fed to the pigs and chickens. Paper is burned. I did not find out what they do with metal but I expect that have that covered. This is the way all resorts should be built.
On the other side of the island is a backpacker resort and a number of the backpackers showed up on our side of the hill for a cold beer and hot shower. Eventually we walked over to investigate. Basic huts are scattered along the beach. There is no hot water and no electricity One building hosts a large dining hall where commercial meals are served. The one consistency is the friendly people. Everyone knows everyone else and they all keep an eye on visitors. We were greeted warmly and given a tour and a bag of fruit to take with us. One of the island dogs escorted us on our walk home, checking to be sure we were going the right way.
A neighboring island is not quite so friendly. Posted signs proclaim “Private Property, No Trespassing” Apparently this is Turtle Island, the playground of the rich and famous, very private and exclusive. From time to time helicopters and seaplanes arrived and departed. We had been out exploring in the dingy and missed the signs when we landed on the beach, but before too long security guards showed up and invited us to leave. Not important. There are plenty of other beaches to explore. Just at the end of our island in another private beach belonging to Blue Lagoon Cruise Lines. This sign is much friendlier and says to leave the beach clear for the cruise guests when the ship is anchored there and otherwise to enjoy respectfully. The reef here is teaming with colorful fish. I think they must feed them to be sure that the tourists have a rich snorkeling experience
The first several days here are cloudy and windy, and we just stay on the boat but eventually the weather clears a little. We had heard that there is a farm here somewhere, where we can buy fresh produce. After 2 weeks cruising we are out of everything, so when the wind finally lets up we head off to see if we can find it. It is a long, wet dingy ride across the lagoon, through the reefs, around the point and up into a deep sheltered bay. Our directions were to go to the head of the bay at high tide and head up the river into the mangroves. Sure enough, there we a narrow opening and a shallow, muddy river winding inland. At the head of the river is a lovely sailing dingy which turns out to belong to the owner of the farm.
The farm itself is delightful. Several acres scattered over the hill, linked by winding paths. We follow the farmer from plot to plot as he harvests our groceries. We get lettuce, tomatoes, cassava, papaya, bananas, basil, cilantro, green onions, boo choy, The bananas are actually plantains because we have learned that they last much longer than regular bananas. Even when the outsides turn black the inside is firm and tasty. I had intended to get just a hand but Alan decides that we should take the whole stalk. We eat bananas constantly for the next month. The lettuce and cilantro and green onions have their roots left on so when we get back to the boat I fill a baking pan with water and start a mini hydroponic farm on board. The lettuce and onions last for 2 weeks. The cilantro does not do so well so I decide to have chili and tortillas for dinner the next night and use it all up. It is impossible to get corn tortillas here but I have masa and my tortilla press from Mexico.
When we are finished at the farm we spend some time exploring the bay. There is a charming backpacker resort and a large school. Interestingly, the school is owned and staffed by the catholic church but paid for by the government. Several places around the bay I notice piles of clam shells and cockles are listed on the menu at the backpacker resort so we decide to come back at low tide to try our luck. Although there have been clam shells on the beaches every where, this is the first time I have seen that they are actually dug for food. Several times before I have showed the shells to the locals and asked if they were good to eat and have been met with blank stares or head shakes so it is great to know that at least here they do eat them.
We watch the weather and the tides carefully for the next few days and finally make our way back. Once more it is a wet ride. By now I have learned to wear my frog jacket to keep dry. It is not cold but it is nicer not to arrive soaking wet. The tide is out this time so instead of going right up onto shore like we did on our last trip, we anchor the dingy several hundred yards off shore and walk over the mud flats to where a young fijan woman and her little boy are collecting clams. The clams are thick, lying on top of the mud or just slightly buried. When I ask if it is OK to collect them, she begins giving me handfuls from her basket. Before long I have a bag full of little clams, about as big as a quarter. That night we make clam chowder. It takes forever to clean them and pick the meat out but the results are wonderful. Alan declares it not quite as good as the legendary Canon Beach chowder, but quite delicious.
Tuesday, July 21, 2015
July 4, 2015 Waya to Naviti
July 2, 2015 Waya to Naviti
Once again we are up at the crack. This getting up early business is getting on Alan’s nerves. Each time we anchor he says we are going to stay for a couple of days and each time he is talked into moving on with the others the next day. This time he swears when we get to Somosomo we are not moving for at least 2 days. Meanwhile, there is a strong northwest wind blowing. 20 to 25 knots with gusts to 30 and we are heading right into it. There is no thought of putting up sails. We will just motor all the way. Luckily the engine seems to be running fine although a little hot.
This is the first time we have really sailed with other boats and it was interesting to compare the three of us. Rhapsody is performing wonderfully, as she almost always does. Her narrow flared bow throws the water away so that even though we are in an open cockpit we seldom get wet, just occasional wind driven spray. The other two boats are diving into the waves, almost burying their bows. It would be fun to have a video of the three of us.
IT is 5 miles across the channel from Waya to Naviti. It should have taken less than an hour but it took almost 2. No one could make much headway going straight into 25 knot winds with big swells. We finally make it to the waypoint where we are to turn into the channel. The expectation is that once we get on the other side of this chain of small islands we will have some protection from the wind and the reef to our other side should break up the swells. But first we need to make our way through this very narrow pass. We cannot see it until we are right at it. It looks very narrow and shallow but here we go. Wind Cutter takes the lead while we wait for Jean Marie to get close behind us. Little by little we make our way along between high green cliffs through sparkling blue water. Radio chatter is about the reefs and shallow spots, It is gorgeous, except that there is no time to enjoy. I have to keep a sharp eye on the water looking for shallow spots. There is one last little very narrow and shallow bit and then we are through, one by one.
Now we have the island on our starboard side and the reef on our port side. We should be protected from the wind but it is not happening. It is an east wind but somehow it is wrapping around and coming through the passes and blowing almost as strong as before. We can see spray leaping twenty feet into the air on the reef. And there are still shallow spots on the chart to keep an eye out for. This is getting to be very hard work. Not the lovely sail we were expecting. Alan’s cut hand is hurting and Walter’s cracked ribs ache. We had intended to go to the top of Naviti and turn into Somosomo Bay, which is supposed to be a well protected anchorage, except that the wind is from the north. This means that the wind will be blowing straight into the bay. Not so much protection after all. Although we got an early start, it is taking us much longer than we expected and we don/t have time to make it all the way to Blue Lagoon today.
Then Wind Cutter spots what looks like a good anchorage, a wide bay with what looks like a resort on the shore. It looks good on the charts and sounds good in the cruising guide so we decide to call it a day and anchor. Hopefully if we get in close to the shore we will finally get some protection from the wind. The charts show shallow spots here and there but one by one we thread our way in and drop anchor in 30 feet of water. We are quite close to a reef along the shore but it is low tide now and we are in deep water so we should be OK. Carol and Craig take their kayaks and go ashore to investigate. We opt for a nap and an early dinner. Jacqui is making sure Walter gets some rest. That night, the next day and the next night the wind blows, and blows, and blows and blows. At one point gusts hit 40 knotsAnd Rhapsody jerks and tosses on the chain. Everyone is dug in fine and the anchors hold but it makes for restless nights. We never do go to shore. Craig reports back that There is a cute backpacker resort with a pool but no beer. They have run out and the ferry is not due for several days.
It looks like there will be a break in the wind tomorrow morning but after that it gets cloudy so we decide to go. One last push to Blue Lagoon. Everyone says it is wonderful there and protected from any kind of weather. Absolutely calm. I hope it lives up to its reputation.
Once again we are up at the crack. This getting up early business is getting on Alan’s nerves. Each time we anchor he says we are going to stay for a couple of days and each time he is talked into moving on with the others the next day. This time he swears when we get to Somosomo we are not moving for at least 2 days. Meanwhile, there is a strong northwest wind blowing. 20 to 25 knots with gusts to 30 and we are heading right into it. There is no thought of putting up sails. We will just motor all the way. Luckily the engine seems to be running fine although a little hot.
This is the first time we have really sailed with other boats and it was interesting to compare the three of us. Rhapsody is performing wonderfully, as she almost always does. Her narrow flared bow throws the water away so that even though we are in an open cockpit we seldom get wet, just occasional wind driven spray. The other two boats are diving into the waves, almost burying their bows. It would be fun to have a video of the three of us.
IT is 5 miles across the channel from Waya to Naviti. It should have taken less than an hour but it took almost 2. No one could make much headway going straight into 25 knot winds with big swells. We finally make it to the waypoint where we are to turn into the channel. The expectation is that once we get on the other side of this chain of small islands we will have some protection from the wind and the reef to our other side should break up the swells. But first we need to make our way through this very narrow pass. We cannot see it until we are right at it. It looks very narrow and shallow but here we go. Wind Cutter takes the lead while we wait for Jean Marie to get close behind us. Little by little we make our way along between high green cliffs through sparkling blue water. Radio chatter is about the reefs and shallow spots, It is gorgeous, except that there is no time to enjoy. I have to keep a sharp eye on the water looking for shallow spots. There is one last little very narrow and shallow bit and then we are through, one by one.
Now we have the island on our starboard side and the reef on our port side. We should be protected from the wind but it is not happening. It is an east wind but somehow it is wrapping around and coming through the passes and blowing almost as strong as before. We can see spray leaping twenty feet into the air on the reef. And there are still shallow spots on the chart to keep an eye out for. This is getting to be very hard work. Not the lovely sail we were expecting. Alan’s cut hand is hurting and Walter’s cracked ribs ache. We had intended to go to the top of Naviti and turn into Somosomo Bay, which is supposed to be a well protected anchorage, except that the wind is from the north. This means that the wind will be blowing straight into the bay. Not so much protection after all. Although we got an early start, it is taking us much longer than we expected and we don/t have time to make it all the way to Blue Lagoon today.
Then Wind Cutter spots what looks like a good anchorage, a wide bay with what looks like a resort on the shore. It looks good on the charts and sounds good in the cruising guide so we decide to call it a day and anchor. Hopefully if we get in close to the shore we will finally get some protection from the wind. The charts show shallow spots here and there but one by one we thread our way in and drop anchor in 30 feet of water. We are quite close to a reef along the shore but it is low tide now and we are in deep water so we should be OK. Carol and Craig take their kayaks and go ashore to investigate. We opt for a nap and an early dinner. Jacqui is making sure Walter gets some rest. That night, the next day and the next night the wind blows, and blows, and blows and blows. At one point gusts hit 40 knotsAnd Rhapsody jerks and tosses on the chain. Everyone is dug in fine and the anchors hold but it makes for restless nights. We never do go to shore. Craig reports back that There is a cute backpacker resort with a pool but no beer. They have run out and the ferry is not due for several days.
It looks like there will be a break in the wind tomorrow morning but after that it gets cloudy so we decide to go. One last push to Blue Lagoon. Everyone says it is wonderful there and protected from any kind of weather. Absolutely calm. I hope it lives up to its reputation.
July 1, 2015 Waya south to Waya north
July 1, 2015 Yalobi Bay, Waya to Rurugu Bay, Waya
The decision was made to move from the south end of Waya to the top of the island. The weather reports predict strong winds and large swells and that looks like a more protected anchorage on the charts. So we are up and underway by 8:30 again. It is a beautiful day with almost no wind. Good thing, because our route takes us through and over numerous reefs. We take the lead with Alan at the helm and me on the bow as lookout. We are also keeping a close eye on the water gage after the fan belt disaster. It is running a little hot, but within an acceptable range. Jacqui and Walter follow in Jean Marie and WindCutter with Carol and Craig bring up the rear. Alan says he feels like an the Admiral leading the fleet. There is lots of radio chatter about depths, speed, wind , possible shallow spots, etc. We are getting used to working as a team. As usual, our Navionics program on the iPad works perfectly. At some point, while I am on the bow, a decision is made to alter course and go straight across a patch marked in green on the iPad. We have no idea how shallow it is going to be but at one point it is marked as 10 feet so I intensify my lookout. The water is a glorious deep blue, lightening to aqua, then green, then brown as it gets more and more shallow. Finally we are through and the depth drops back to 150 feet, just as the chart says it should. Jean Marie stays with us and come through OK too, but Wind Cutter decides to take an alternate route much closer to the shore. Before long however, we see them turn around and head back this way. What ever track they had been following was not going to work.
The trip was only 15 miles and we arrive at the anchorage by noon. Just as we turn into the bay there is a shout on the radio. Walter on Jean Marie has caught a fish and apparently it is a monster. He wrestles with it for about 15 minutes until he finally lands it. This is even more of a feat than normal because he apparently cracked some ribs this morning and is in great pain. But you can’t keep a real fisherman down when there is a fighting fish on the line. As we move into the bay to anchor both the wind and swell pick up, not too much but a little. We had originally talked about possibly going on if we did not like this anchorage but now that we are here we really don’t want to keep going so every one drops anchors.
We are anchored next to green cliff with little village at the head of the bay in crystal clear blue water. It is low tide and there is reef all along the shore that calls for exploring so we unfold the dingy, dig out a bundle of kava root and head in . There is a brief detour to pick up 4 enormous fish steaks from Jean Marie and leave them on the boat and again to invite Wind Cutter to join us. They provided the kava at the last village so we figure it is our turn this time. However, when we land and tie up the dingy they have disappeared so we make our way to the chief without them. There are apparently six sous-chief on this village. the one on duty today is Captain Ame and we learn that he used to be the captain of an ocean going tugboat. He once towed an oil tanker from Indonesia to Panama for repairs. Even he was not quite sure why they did not just fix it in Indonesia. We were given the usual tour of the village and left the obligatory donation for the school but his real interest was in charts, real charts with latitude and longitude and compass rose showing variations. He wanted to teach the young men of the village navigation so that they could pass their captains exam. We actually had some duplicate charts that we could give him so we invited him out to Rhapsody for a visit while I dug them out. He was quite taken with Rhapsody and pronounced her a very fine, well fitted boat. I found several charts that we were not using or could replace back in Lautoka. Then we showed him our iPad navigation charts. He was amazed and delighted. A whole new world since he had been captaining.
That night we had fish for dinner, far more than we could eat but wonderful. The left overs were mixed with mayo and spices and rolled in roti for lunch the next day
There was a fairly strong swell running and the boats were rocking and rolling, but Rhapsody has such an easy motion that it was like being in a hammock. Apparently those on the other boats had a harder time of it because we heard in the morning that they did not get any sleep. Maybe we are just more use to putting up with stuff and making the best of it Anyway, the decision was made once more to leave at dawn, even though I had promised myself that we would stay here several days.
The decision was made to move from the south end of Waya to the top of the island. The weather reports predict strong winds and large swells and that looks like a more protected anchorage on the charts. So we are up and underway by 8:30 again. It is a beautiful day with almost no wind. Good thing, because our route takes us through and over numerous reefs. We take the lead with Alan at the helm and me on the bow as lookout. We are also keeping a close eye on the water gage after the fan belt disaster. It is running a little hot, but within an acceptable range. Jacqui and Walter follow in Jean Marie and WindCutter with Carol and Craig bring up the rear. Alan says he feels like an the Admiral leading the fleet. There is lots of radio chatter about depths, speed, wind , possible shallow spots, etc. We are getting used to working as a team. As usual, our Navionics program on the iPad works perfectly. At some point, while I am on the bow, a decision is made to alter course and go straight across a patch marked in green on the iPad. We have no idea how shallow it is going to be but at one point it is marked as 10 feet so I intensify my lookout. The water is a glorious deep blue, lightening to aqua, then green, then brown as it gets more and more shallow. Finally we are through and the depth drops back to 150 feet, just as the chart says it should. Jean Marie stays with us and come through OK too, but Wind Cutter decides to take an alternate route much closer to the shore. Before long however, we see them turn around and head back this way. What ever track they had been following was not going to work.
The trip was only 15 miles and we arrive at the anchorage by noon. Just as we turn into the bay there is a shout on the radio. Walter on Jean Marie has caught a fish and apparently it is a monster. He wrestles with it for about 15 minutes until he finally lands it. This is even more of a feat than normal because he apparently cracked some ribs this morning and is in great pain. But you can’t keep a real fisherman down when there is a fighting fish on the line. As we move into the bay to anchor both the wind and swell pick up, not too much but a little. We had originally talked about possibly going on if we did not like this anchorage but now that we are here we really don’t want to keep going so every one drops anchors.
We are anchored next to green cliff with little village at the head of the bay in crystal clear blue water. It is low tide and there is reef all along the shore that calls for exploring so we unfold the dingy, dig out a bundle of kava root and head in . There is a brief detour to pick up 4 enormous fish steaks from Jean Marie and leave them on the boat and again to invite Wind Cutter to join us. They provided the kava at the last village so we figure it is our turn this time. However, when we land and tie up the dingy they have disappeared so we make our way to the chief without them. There are apparently six sous-chief on this village. the one on duty today is Captain Ame and we learn that he used to be the captain of an ocean going tugboat. He once towed an oil tanker from Indonesia to Panama for repairs. Even he was not quite sure why they did not just fix it in Indonesia. We were given the usual tour of the village and left the obligatory donation for the school but his real interest was in charts, real charts with latitude and longitude and compass rose showing variations. He wanted to teach the young men of the village navigation so that they could pass their captains exam. We actually had some duplicate charts that we could give him so we invited him out to Rhapsody for a visit while I dug them out. He was quite taken with Rhapsody and pronounced her a very fine, well fitted boat. I found several charts that we were not using or could replace back in Lautoka. Then we showed him our iPad navigation charts. He was amazed and delighted. A whole new world since he had been captaining.
That night we had fish for dinner, far more than we could eat but wonderful. The left overs were mixed with mayo and spices and rolled in roti for lunch the next day
There was a fairly strong swell running and the boats were rocking and rolling, but Rhapsody has such an easy motion that it was like being in a hammock. Apparently those on the other boats had a harder time of it because we heard in the morning that they did not get any sleep. Maybe we are just more use to putting up with stuff and making the best of it Anyway, the decision was made once more to leave at dawn, even though I had promised myself that we would stay here several days.
June 24, 2015 Navdra to Waya
June 24, 2015 Navadra to Waya
Up early and ready to take off. Radios on. Clear sky but brisk, cool wind blowing. Just as we are about to pull up our anchors we see a large cruise ship rounding the point, obviously intending to enter the bay and anchor right where we are. Quickly I get on the radio to find out his intentions. They are indeed planning to drop anchor for the day right where we are. They will gladly stand by for a bit while we get the heck out of their way. There bit turns out to be a bit shorter than the time it takes to get all 250 feet of chain hauled in and they are bearing down on us as we finally get underway.
Meanwhile the other two have gotten their anchors up more quickly and are already well out of the bay. We are just getting settled when Alan realizes that the engine is running hot. We take it out of gear, radio the others and Alan goes below to see what the problem is. When he opens the door to the engine room, smoke billows out. Uh Oh! Engine shut down, we drift along with only the little jib up while he tries to see what the problem is. Eventually he diagnoses a problem with the water cooling system, somewhere. It is too hot to do anything about it right now. We will have to sail to the next anchorage on Waya about 10 miles away and sort it out there.
It is a lovely sail but I am exhausted by the time we arrive. You will remember that all of our sail handling is done manually. Someone has to go up to the bow, remove the sail covers or bags, run the lines, attach the halyard and pull the sail up hand over hand. In this case, it is going to be me on the sails, since I would rather do that than steer through these reefs. We had just the little jib (staysail) up when the engine overheated. We had expected to just use it as a stabilized with the engine on. it does not give enough power by itself and is difficult to steer. with it So the first job is to put the mizzen up. This lets Alan actually steer the boat with some degree of confidence . Next the main jib needs to go up so we can get some more speed. The other two boats are well ahead of us. Getting the bag off, the lines run and the sail hoisted takes some doing in the tossing seas but finally it is done and I can sit down to relax. Before too long, however, Alan decides that the staysail needs to come down. Theoretically both sails together should give more power but it never seems to work that way, and we do not have a double set of winches so the lines for the little one are tied onto cleats. We are coming up to a turn and it needs to come down before we make that turn so back up to the bow I go, holding on tight. Got that down, lines coiled and all stuffed back into it’s bag and we sail smartly on into the anchorage at Waya. Time to drop the main jib. Much bigger, harder to handle but eventually it is also stowed.
We had planned to anchor off of the main village in Yalobi Bay, where we had stayed once before but the other two boats, who were well ahead of us, has scoped it out and decided that the anchorage on Wayasewa, a smaller adjoining island, was less rolly. Since we need to be with the other two until we get the engine problem sorted, we had no choice but to follow. As we move into the bay the wind drops and finally the mizzen comes down too. Walter comes out in his dingy from Jean Marie to give us a tow until we are close enough in to anchor. As Walter is towing us with his little inflatable, a boat comes out from the village to help. Between the two of them we are finally settled and the anchor dropped. Once again, we are looking at 50 feet of water. Once the anchor is down it is not coming up until the engine is fixed because of the amount of battery power that the windlass uses. Although it has been a short sail, we are both exhausted. Time for lunch and nap. We will deal with the engine tomorrow.
That afternoon Craig and Carol from Wind Cutter came by in their dingy on their way ashore to do sevusevu with the chief so we decided to tag along. School had just gotten out and there were dozen kids on the shore, along with teachers. When they verified that we had brought kava root, we were led to the house of the chief. The cave was handed off and he said a short prayer of blessing and welcomed us to the village. Once again, we were free to explore. Joe, the chief, was a delightful man of about 60 with 5 kids, 25 grandkids and 20+ greats. So pretty much the whole village was related to him somehow. I wanted to stay and visit with him but the others were eager to see the village and the school. So off we went, with a promise to come back tomorrow. Unfortunately the next day was spent working on the engine and we left at dawn the day after so I never got a chance to visit. Hopefully we can stay longer on the way back. When he met us he said that when he was a child he had never seen a white man. That would have been in the 1940s and 50s. TransPacific air plane flights did not start until the 1960s and Fiji was not high on the list of must visit destinations. I would love to hear his stories.
The school was large and lovely and, as always, in need of donations. They have a large sports field with a sign saying that they have one of the best Rugby teams in Fiji. There is also an active boy scout program. I was escorted for a while by a young man who was the head boy/proctor, an eagle scout and the grandson of the chief. Destined to be chief himself one day, I expect. He is looking forward to the Boy Scout Jamboree to be held this summer in Suva hosting scouts from all around the Pacific and Australia and New Zealand.
Next morning we tackled the engine. Luckily it turned out to be only (!) a broken fan belt and wonder of wonders, we not only had a spare, we had three. So it should be a quick and easy job. Except nothing is quick and easy on a boat. First you have find the right tools. Then you need a flash light because the bolt you need to turn is underneath. Of course all the bolts are stuck because the fan belt has not been replaced for 10? years so then you need the canon penetrating oil. Finally got the old one off but would the new one go back on? Of course not. Finally had to take the alternator off and then could not get that back on with the fan belt around it. Eventually, hours later, working together, we finally got it all put back and fired up the engine. It works! This was definitely a breakthrough day in working together.
That evening we had fish that Walter had caught and learned that he had cracked a rib and was in great pain. Jackie is keeping him well doped up but the wind is still blowing hard and the boats are all rocking and rolling, making it hard to sleep. After studying the weather and the charts we decide to leave here tomorrow and move to the top of the island where we think we will have more protection. The goal now is to get to Blue Lagoon, which everyone says is a completely protected, always calm anchorage.
Up early and ready to take off. Radios on. Clear sky but brisk, cool wind blowing. Just as we are about to pull up our anchors we see a large cruise ship rounding the point, obviously intending to enter the bay and anchor right where we are. Quickly I get on the radio to find out his intentions. They are indeed planning to drop anchor for the day right where we are. They will gladly stand by for a bit while we get the heck out of their way. There bit turns out to be a bit shorter than the time it takes to get all 250 feet of chain hauled in and they are bearing down on us as we finally get underway.
Meanwhile the other two have gotten their anchors up more quickly and are already well out of the bay. We are just getting settled when Alan realizes that the engine is running hot. We take it out of gear, radio the others and Alan goes below to see what the problem is. When he opens the door to the engine room, smoke billows out. Uh Oh! Engine shut down, we drift along with only the little jib up while he tries to see what the problem is. Eventually he diagnoses a problem with the water cooling system, somewhere. It is too hot to do anything about it right now. We will have to sail to the next anchorage on Waya about 10 miles away and sort it out there.
It is a lovely sail but I am exhausted by the time we arrive. You will remember that all of our sail handling is done manually. Someone has to go up to the bow, remove the sail covers or bags, run the lines, attach the halyard and pull the sail up hand over hand. In this case, it is going to be me on the sails, since I would rather do that than steer through these reefs. We had just the little jib (staysail) up when the engine overheated. We had expected to just use it as a stabilized with the engine on. it does not give enough power by itself and is difficult to steer. with it So the first job is to put the mizzen up. This lets Alan actually steer the boat with some degree of confidence . Next the main jib needs to go up so we can get some more speed. The other two boats are well ahead of us. Getting the bag off, the lines run and the sail hoisted takes some doing in the tossing seas but finally it is done and I can sit down to relax. Before too long, however, Alan decides that the staysail needs to come down. Theoretically both sails together should give more power but it never seems to work that way, and we do not have a double set of winches so the lines for the little one are tied onto cleats. We are coming up to a turn and it needs to come down before we make that turn so back up to the bow I go, holding on tight. Got that down, lines coiled and all stuffed back into it’s bag and we sail smartly on into the anchorage at Waya. Time to drop the main jib. Much bigger, harder to handle but eventually it is also stowed.
We had planned to anchor off of the main village in Yalobi Bay, where we had stayed once before but the other two boats, who were well ahead of us, has scoped it out and decided that the anchorage on Wayasewa, a smaller adjoining island, was less rolly. Since we need to be with the other two until we get the engine problem sorted, we had no choice but to follow. As we move into the bay the wind drops and finally the mizzen comes down too. Walter comes out in his dingy from Jean Marie to give us a tow until we are close enough in to anchor. As Walter is towing us with his little inflatable, a boat comes out from the village to help. Between the two of them we are finally settled and the anchor dropped. Once again, we are looking at 50 feet of water. Once the anchor is down it is not coming up until the engine is fixed because of the amount of battery power that the windlass uses. Although it has been a short sail, we are both exhausted. Time for lunch and nap. We will deal with the engine tomorrow.
That afternoon Craig and Carol from Wind Cutter came by in their dingy on their way ashore to do sevusevu with the chief so we decided to tag along. School had just gotten out and there were dozen kids on the shore, along with teachers. When they verified that we had brought kava root, we were led to the house of the chief. The cave was handed off and he said a short prayer of blessing and welcomed us to the village. Once again, we were free to explore. Joe, the chief, was a delightful man of about 60 with 5 kids, 25 grandkids and 20+ greats. So pretty much the whole village was related to him somehow. I wanted to stay and visit with him but the others were eager to see the village and the school. So off we went, with a promise to come back tomorrow. Unfortunately the next day was spent working on the engine and we left at dawn the day after so I never got a chance to visit. Hopefully we can stay longer on the way back. When he met us he said that when he was a child he had never seen a white man. That would have been in the 1940s and 50s. TransPacific air plane flights did not start until the 1960s and Fiji was not high on the list of must visit destinations. I would love to hear his stories.
The school was large and lovely and, as always, in need of donations. They have a large sports field with a sign saying that they have one of the best Rugby teams in Fiji. There is also an active boy scout program. I was escorted for a while by a young man who was the head boy/proctor, an eagle scout and the grandson of the chief. Destined to be chief himself one day, I expect. He is looking forward to the Boy Scout Jamboree to be held this summer in Suva hosting scouts from all around the Pacific and Australia and New Zealand.
Next morning we tackled the engine. Luckily it turned out to be only (!) a broken fan belt and wonder of wonders, we not only had a spare, we had three. So it should be a quick and easy job. Except nothing is quick and easy on a boat. First you have find the right tools. Then you need a flash light because the bolt you need to turn is underneath. Of course all the bolts are stuck because the fan belt has not been replaced for 10? years so then you need the canon penetrating oil. Finally got the old one off but would the new one go back on? Of course not. Finally had to take the alternator off and then could not get that back on with the fan belt around it. Eventually, hours later, working together, we finally got it all put back and fired up the engine. It works! This was definitely a breakthrough day in working together.
That evening we had fish that Walter had caught and learned that he had cracked a rib and was in great pain. Jackie is keeping him well doped up but the wind is still blowing hard and the boats are all rocking and rolling, making it hard to sleep. After studying the weather and the charts we decide to leave here tomorrow and move to the top of the island where we think we will have more protection. The goal now is to get to Blue Lagoon, which everyone says is a completely protected, always calm anchorage.
Sunday, July 12, 2015
June 24, 2015 Musket Cove to Navadra
June 24 2015 Musket Cove to Navadra
So, time to go. We get up early and run through the casting off checklist. it has been so long that we really need to check the list to be sure we have not forgotten anything. The weather is lovely, clear with a brisk wind. Since we have the iPad and JeanMarie is relying on an older computer, we lead the way. We thread our way carefully through the reefs with me on the bow with the small iPad in hand, matching what is on the charts to what I can see. Once out of the worst of the reefs, we hoist the jib and move right along at about 5.5-6 knots. Jacqui is extremely nervous, about the route, especially when Alan decides to go a different way from what she had expected and with our sails up we are pulling farther and farther ahead. The winds have picked up. We are now on the western side of the islands with waves crashing on the outer reef to our port side. It is a glorious sail.
About 2:00 we come into our first planned anchorage, Navadra Island. We had heard that there was only room for 2-3 boats here and there are already 3 boats anchored in the bay but it looks like there is room for us, so we decide to go for it. Plenty of room. There is no village here, just a lovely sandy beach with very deep water. The wind continues to blow quite strongly and we are much less protected than we thought we would be. But it is a lovely spot, white sand beach covered with shells, crystal clear water, lots of fish and so peaceful. Nevada is also called the sacred island. On my walk down the beach I spot what looks like a makeshift altar under the trees, covered with beautiful shells, flowers, and oddly enough an empty cigarette box. Just beyond it is a shallow cave, under an outcropping of rock. In the center of that space is a large flat rock holding several bundles of kava root. Next to it are the ashes of a fire. I have often asked people here to tell me the tales and legends of the old time. every time I have been told that the people came from Africa and were cannibals but then the missionaries came and now they do not believe those old stories and more. Obviously there is some remnant of belief.
Later that afternoon, we gather on Jean Marie to compare charts. Jacqui and Walter are using open CPN and C-map charts on an older computer and neither of these charts show very much detail. They are very difficult to use in the narrow, reef strewn passages that we are traveling through on this trip. We have been absolutely delighted with our Navionics charts so far, they have been spot on. So it is decided that Jacqui will once again follow us and we will stay in radio contact to warn here when we hit shallow spots. It is interesting that shallow is now defined as anything under 10 fathoms, that is 60 feet. Where it is not shallow, it is really deep.
Late in the afternoon our friends on Wind Cutter join us, bringing a mouse trap. We were apparently boarded by a mouse in Vuda and so far have had no luck catching it with sticky traps. It is enjoying our oatmeal, powdered milk and granola bars. I have taken things out of several cupboards and put everything possible into tupperware or heavy plastic bags. The trap is baited with granola bar and put into the cupboard with the most apparent activity. We shall see…
So, time to go. We get up early and run through the casting off checklist. it has been so long that we really need to check the list to be sure we have not forgotten anything. The weather is lovely, clear with a brisk wind. Since we have the iPad and JeanMarie is relying on an older computer, we lead the way. We thread our way carefully through the reefs with me on the bow with the small iPad in hand, matching what is on the charts to what I can see. Once out of the worst of the reefs, we hoist the jib and move right along at about 5.5-6 knots. Jacqui is extremely nervous, about the route, especially when Alan decides to go a different way from what she had expected and with our sails up we are pulling farther and farther ahead. The winds have picked up. We are now on the western side of the islands with waves crashing on the outer reef to our port side. It is a glorious sail.
About 2:00 we come into our first planned anchorage, Navadra Island. We had heard that there was only room for 2-3 boats here and there are already 3 boats anchored in the bay but it looks like there is room for us, so we decide to go for it. Plenty of room. There is no village here, just a lovely sandy beach with very deep water. The wind continues to blow quite strongly and we are much less protected than we thought we would be. But it is a lovely spot, white sand beach covered with shells, crystal clear water, lots of fish and so peaceful. Nevada is also called the sacred island. On my walk down the beach I spot what looks like a makeshift altar under the trees, covered with beautiful shells, flowers, and oddly enough an empty cigarette box. Just beyond it is a shallow cave, under an outcropping of rock. In the center of that space is a large flat rock holding several bundles of kava root. Next to it are the ashes of a fire. I have often asked people here to tell me the tales and legends of the old time. every time I have been told that the people came from Africa and were cannibals but then the missionaries came and now they do not believe those old stories and more. Obviously there is some remnant of belief.
Later that afternoon, we gather on Jean Marie to compare charts. Jacqui and Walter are using open CPN and C-map charts on an older computer and neither of these charts show very much detail. They are very difficult to use in the narrow, reef strewn passages that we are traveling through on this trip. We have been absolutely delighted with our Navionics charts so far, they have been spot on. So it is decided that Jacqui will once again follow us and we will stay in radio contact to warn here when we hit shallow spots. It is interesting that shallow is now defined as anything under 10 fathoms, that is 60 feet. Where it is not shallow, it is really deep.
Late in the afternoon our friends on Wind Cutter join us, bringing a mouse trap. We were apparently boarded by a mouse in Vuda and so far have had no luck catching it with sticky traps. It is enjoying our oatmeal, powdered milk and granola bars. I have taken things out of several cupboards and put everything possible into tupperware or heavy plastic bags. The trap is baited with granola bar and put into the cupboard with the most apparent activity. We shall see…
June 15, 2015 Musket Cove again
June 15, 2015 Musket Cove again
Third time is a charm, I hope. Once again we are ready to leave for our cruise up through the Yasawas. Almost all of our friends have left the marina, either cruising Fiji or headed off to other places. It is the middle of June. Time to get going. This time we made it into Musket Cove without any mishaps. Our friends on Jean Marie had run off several other boats and managed to save a mooring ball for us. We were really glad they had done so because that night the wind started to blow and blew for several days. Although we did not know it at the time, our entire trip was to be plagued by strong wind and cool weather.
Fiji is full of reefs and there is a belief among cruisers that the charts, including the electronic charts, are not accurate. There are numerous sets of waypoints and tracks from previous cruisers but even those are treated lithesome suspicion. The resort at Musket Cove has a breakfast buffet with good coffee and excellent pastries. This proved to be a great place to meet with our buddy boat, Jean Marie, to discuss our travel plans and to try to guess what the weather is going to be. Again, there are several different weather services that people are using. By and large, it looks like there will be a lot of wind coming mostly from the east.
We could wait here in Musket Cove for a long time, waiting for the perfect weather. And in fact we do spend several days hiking around the island but finally Alan says it is time to go. There is a party at the island bar/yacht club to mark the opening of sailing season and the next morning we are finally on our way to explore the Yasawa Islands of Fiji.
There are two main large islands in Fiji and over 100 smaller islands. The Yasawas are a chain of small islands and reefs curving along up the west side. They are sparsely settled, with occasional small villages, although more and more resorts are being built. It is an interesting combination of the new with the old. The villagers live a traditional lifestyle. There is little electricity. although there are a few solar installations. There is great hope that the government or some rich foreigner will give everyone free solar but so far that is a dream. Water comes from rain collected into large tanks and there are frequent shortages. There is no real concerted effort to catch, store and manage all of the water. There are no desalinization plants. Cooking is often over an open fire in outdoor kitchens. But everyone has a cell phone and there are towers all through the islands. each village has several small runabouts with outboard engines and there are frequent trips to the mainland or other islands. Traditional occupations are fishing and farming but these days much of the population works in the resorts, which are often located just a short distance from the village. It must be interesting and disconcerting to work surrounded by all the acoutremonts of a luxury resort, hot showers, fine restaurants, beautiful rooms, and then come home to a traditional village.
There is an excellent system of schools but they are sadly lacking in books and computers and many basic supplies. Of course I think that is true of schools all over the world, even Los Angeles. Those villages that are on the cruise ship itinerary set up tables to sell “native” handcrafts and give tours of the school, always ending in a plea for donations. Unfortunately, the handcrafts are seldom made by the villagers. Instead they are shipped in from the mainland. Occasionally there are wonderful shells from the local waters, or locally made mats but mostly everything looks much the same and you seldom see anything more than the standard tourist trinkets.
Third time is a charm, I hope. Once again we are ready to leave for our cruise up through the Yasawas. Almost all of our friends have left the marina, either cruising Fiji or headed off to other places. It is the middle of June. Time to get going. This time we made it into Musket Cove without any mishaps. Our friends on Jean Marie had run off several other boats and managed to save a mooring ball for us. We were really glad they had done so because that night the wind started to blow and blew for several days. Although we did not know it at the time, our entire trip was to be plagued by strong wind and cool weather.
Fiji is full of reefs and there is a belief among cruisers that the charts, including the electronic charts, are not accurate. There are numerous sets of waypoints and tracks from previous cruisers but even those are treated lithesome suspicion. The resort at Musket Cove has a breakfast buffet with good coffee and excellent pastries. This proved to be a great place to meet with our buddy boat, Jean Marie, to discuss our travel plans and to try to guess what the weather is going to be. Again, there are several different weather services that people are using. By and large, it looks like there will be a lot of wind coming mostly from the east.
We could wait here in Musket Cove for a long time, waiting for the perfect weather. And in fact we do spend several days hiking around the island but finally Alan says it is time to go. There is a party at the island bar/yacht club to mark the opening of sailing season and the next morning we are finally on our way to explore the Yasawa Islands of Fiji.
There are two main large islands in Fiji and over 100 smaller islands. The Yasawas are a chain of small islands and reefs curving along up the west side. They are sparsely settled, with occasional small villages, although more and more resorts are being built. It is an interesting combination of the new with the old. The villagers live a traditional lifestyle. There is little electricity. although there are a few solar installations. There is great hope that the government or some rich foreigner will give everyone free solar but so far that is a dream. Water comes from rain collected into large tanks and there are frequent shortages. There is no real concerted effort to catch, store and manage all of the water. There are no desalinization plants. Cooking is often over an open fire in outdoor kitchens. But everyone has a cell phone and there are towers all through the islands. each village has several small runabouts with outboard engines and there are frequent trips to the mainland or other islands. Traditional occupations are fishing and farming but these days much of the population works in the resorts, which are often located just a short distance from the village. It must be interesting and disconcerting to work surrounded by all the acoutremonts of a luxury resort, hot showers, fine restaurants, beautiful rooms, and then come home to a traditional village.
There is an excellent system of schools but they are sadly lacking in books and computers and many basic supplies. Of course I think that is true of schools all over the world, even Los Angeles. Those villages that are on the cruise ship itinerary set up tables to sell “native” handcrafts and give tours of the school, always ending in a plea for donations. Unfortunately, the handcrafts are seldom made by the villagers. Instead they are shipped in from the mainland. Occasionally there are wonderful shells from the local waters, or locally made mats but mostly everything looks much the same and you seldom see anything more than the standard tourist trinkets.
June 10, 2015 on the reef
June, 2015 Musket Cove Reef
Once more, it is my turn to sail. The day started out quiet but built to a strong wind by the time we were close to Malolo Island. I did a reasonably good job following the course on the iPad but as we got in among the reefs, I decided that I had had enough. It was late in the day, the sun was in my eyes and there was a fairly brisk breeze. I turned the engine on, turned the tiller over to Alan and went forward to take the sails down. Just as the jib started to drop there was a loud clunk and we came to an abrupt halt. looking down into the water, i realized that we were on the reef. “Reef”, I yelled, “Reverse”, while frantically trying to get the jib the rest of the way down and secured so the wind would not catch it. Once the jib was down I ran back to get the mizzen down and secure so that at least the wind would not push us further onto the reef.
What the heck had happened. I was pretty sure I was on track when I turned the tiller over to Alan but somehow we ended up on the wrong side of the marker and here we were. It did not seem to be a very big reef, but we were right in the middle of it. Alan put the engine n reverse and gunned it . He went one way then the other. We tried rocking it from side to side. Nothing worked, we just lay there bouncing on the coral heads. Just as we were ready to give up and wait for the tide to come in, one of the resort dive boats came by. It was full of people returning from a dive trip but had seen our plight and came to offer assistance. After some discussion, we tied our small stern anchor to the bow and passed it to them. They dropped it off the bow so that we were held into the wind and not swinging around and bouncing so much. The idea was that we would wait for the tide to come in and then we could pull ourselves off. Good plan but it was just past the low and would be several hours before it would be high enough to float us free.
And then another boat came up. This one as dingy with 2 people aboard, also returning from a dive trip. The husband jumped into the water to evaluate the situation. Turns out we were very close to the edge. They positioned their dingy on one side of the bow to push while I pulled on the anchor line on the other side and Alan gunned the engine and little by little we worked our way free. With a smile and a wave, they were off. Slowly we made our way the rest of the way into the anchorage. Once the anchor was secure, Alan took mask and snorkel to dive down and see how much damage we had done. Surprisingly, there was very little damage. Some scrapes and a few dings but nothing that looked serious. Nonetheless, we kept a close eye on the bilge for the next few days.
We had thought we would start our cruise of the Yasawas this time, but after our adventure, we decided it would be smarter to go back to the marina and be sure that everything was OK. Plus, I needed to apply for another extension to my vise, since it is obvious we will not be ready to leave Fiji for some time.
Once more, it is my turn to sail. The day started out quiet but built to a strong wind by the time we were close to Malolo Island. I did a reasonably good job following the course on the iPad but as we got in among the reefs, I decided that I had had enough. It was late in the day, the sun was in my eyes and there was a fairly brisk breeze. I turned the engine on, turned the tiller over to Alan and went forward to take the sails down. Just as the jib started to drop there was a loud clunk and we came to an abrupt halt. looking down into the water, i realized that we were on the reef. “Reef”, I yelled, “Reverse”, while frantically trying to get the jib the rest of the way down and secured so the wind would not catch it. Once the jib was down I ran back to get the mizzen down and secure so that at least the wind would not push us further onto the reef.
What the heck had happened. I was pretty sure I was on track when I turned the tiller over to Alan but somehow we ended up on the wrong side of the marker and here we were. It did not seem to be a very big reef, but we were right in the middle of it. Alan put the engine n reverse and gunned it . He went one way then the other. We tried rocking it from side to side. Nothing worked, we just lay there bouncing on the coral heads. Just as we were ready to give up and wait for the tide to come in, one of the resort dive boats came by. It was full of people returning from a dive trip but had seen our plight and came to offer assistance. After some discussion, we tied our small stern anchor to the bow and passed it to them. They dropped it off the bow so that we were held into the wind and not swinging around and bouncing so much. The idea was that we would wait for the tide to come in and then we could pull ourselves off. Good plan but it was just past the low and would be several hours before it would be high enough to float us free.
And then another boat came up. This one as dingy with 2 people aboard, also returning from a dive trip. The husband jumped into the water to evaluate the situation. Turns out we were very close to the edge. They positioned their dingy on one side of the bow to push while I pulled on the anchor line on the other side and Alan gunned the engine and little by little we worked our way free. With a smile and a wave, they were off. Slowly we made our way the rest of the way into the anchorage. Once the anchor was secure, Alan took mask and snorkel to dive down and see how much damage we had done. Surprisingly, there was very little damage. Some scrapes and a few dings but nothing that looked serious. Nonetheless, we kept a close eye on the bilge for the next few days.
We had thought we would start our cruise of the Yasawas this time, but after our adventure, we decided it would be smarter to go back to the marina and be sure that everything was OK. Plus, I needed to apply for another extension to my vise, since it is obvious we will not be ready to leave Fiji for some time.
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