May 19, 2014
Fata Hiva to Tahuata
Once again the easy overnight sail did not turn out as we expected. instead of a long slow slog into the wind, we had the perfect sail. We must have been in a current because we fley along at 5-6 knots with a very light wind. It was wonderful but also awful because it put us just off of our destination about 10 pm, rather than 3 am as we had planned. Oh well, we had expected to have to heave to for a few hours, this will just be a little longer. The wind is fairly strong by now but that should not be a problem. Somehow it does not work. The first time we are drifting slowly towards the island whack is only 2 miles away. At1 mph we will be on the shore before we know it. So we turn around and try again. This time we are drifting away from the island towards open ocean so that is OK. Except that the point of being hove to is that the boat should not be moving at all. Alan tries various adjustments and finally decides that this is the best that we can do. He goes to sleep and I settle in the cabin to read and watch the iPad and keep an eye on things. We are drifting. At first it is just one knot but gradually the wind builds and our speed builds until we are doing 2+ That is faster than we often go under sail. We are heading away from Tahuata but also north, into the channel between Tahuata and Hive Oa where the wind and currents are really wild. I finally decide that we should not go any farther and get Alan up.
We set the sails and head back down to the south end of the island where we heave to again. This time we seem to be drifting slower. Same drill, Alan goes to sleep and I stand watch. Once again we drift north, a little slower this time but still too fast. Once again I wake Alan up when we reach the channel. We consider just abandoning Tahuata and going on north to our next destination, but Eric Hiscock said that this was one of the most beautiful anchorages in the South Pacific and Alan does not want to miss it.
It is now 4am and it will be light in an hour so we decide to sail back down south one more time. By then it should be light and we can get in close to shore, out of the wind, and motor north to the anchorage. Getting south is not too much of a problem but getting close shore is. The steep cliff of the island should provide a barrier from the wind but they seem to be acting as a funnel instead. We are trying to go directly into the wind again and it is not dying with the dawn like it is supposed to.
Eventually we get in close enough that there is enough relief that we can turn on the motor and get the sails down. And then another disaster. Just as we are about to bring the main sail down there is a lout POP and the sail rips at the back edge, right at the reef point. We hastily bundle it down so that it does not tear any more. I don’t believe it. 3 sails torn. For what it is worth, this is a much smaller rip and should be fairly easy to fix, once we get somewhere where there is a sail maker, or at least a sewing machine and room to spread out. The problem will be getting to that place without a main sail.
We motor on into Hanamoenoa Bay and drop anchor among about 8 other boats, some old friends and some we have not seen before. It is indeed beautiful with a white sand beach at the head of the bay. The water is crystal clear and filled with fish. Just after we anchor a school of rays show up and play along side of us. Other sailors dingy over to greet us. One of the other boats has a heavy duty sewing machine on board and the captain used to work in a sail loft so we agree to meet in Nuka Hiva to get all these sails patched. As per custom, we have a quick swim and settle down to sleep for the rest of the day. In the afternoon we go ashore and walk along the beach. There is no village here, just one young man who has a shack and some fruit trees. I think we are finally getting close to paradise.
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