June 9, 2014, Thursday
Rangiroa
Marquises
The Tuamotus are atolls, 77 of them scattered over 1500 miles of ocean. They were formed when ancient volcanic islands gradually weathered and sank beneath the ocean leaving only the surrounding ring of coral. Rising only a few yards above the surface of the ocean, they are the opposite of the steep, sheer Marquises which have only recently thrust up from the ocean floor. Some of them have already been submerged by the ever pounding ocean waves and sailing through this bit of ocean is a matter of constant vigilance. The navigation guides describe conditions for entering each atoll, currents, depth, hazards, tides, etc, often ending with “not recommended”.
It is an odd experience to be anchored in the calm water inside. We are protected by only a small strip of island and Rangiroa is so large that we cannot see across it. There is a sort of Twilight Zone feeling, as if time is passing in the outside world while we are cut off from the rest of the world in a timeless bubble. Ashore we can see trees with houses scattered among them. To one side of us are the over the water cabins of a posh hotel. Small motor boats zip past taking tourists on dive trips and locals to other parts of the reef on various errands. In the morning everyone seems to be caring several loves of baguettes.
Eventually we launch the dingy and head for the wharf to explore the island. There seems to be only one road, which runs along the ocean side of the reef. The houses we can see from the boat are reached by wandering paths through the trees or by boat. The contrast with the Marquises in interesting. To my eyes it does not seem as prosperous. Houses seem less well built and cared for, although everyone seems to have a new car or truck. The one road is paved but not recently. There is still very little litter, no graffiti and no homelessness that we see.
We decide to rent bicycles to ride the 5 miles down to the other end of this little piece of the reef. There is another pass there, effectively blocking access to the rest of the atoll except by boat. Even though you would think it would be an easy flat ride we find ourselves huffing and puffing as we ride into the wind and up a very slight hill. Guess we are more out of shape than we thought. There are small churches everywhere, looks like every family has their own. We had heard that there was “the world’s most unusual winery” on Rangiroa so we were hoping to find it. People we asked seemed to know that there was one but were unclear where it was. This place is not that big. It should be hard to lose a whole winery. Eventually we found what had been the bottling plant and tasting room, now unfortunately closed. However, the grocery store next door carried bottles of the wine whack turned out to be quite good.. Apparently the winery itself, and presumable the vineyard, is on another piece of the atoll, across the pass and accessible only by boat. In the evening we hung out at the bar/swimming pool of the hotel to see the polynesian dance show. It was a lot of fun and quite good. Much of the audience seemed to be friends of the dancers and turned out to be very good dancers themselves.
We are becoming extremely frustrated with our lovely Torquedo electric motor. It starts at the push of a button and runs very quietly but it takes forever to charge it, up to 48 hours if it is close to empty. And once it is fully charged it only goes for a short distance before it needs to be charged again. This means we have to plan our trips ashore very carefully and cannot just hop in the dingy if we run out of baguettes. It came with a solar panel for charging but thanks to the salt air, the wires corroded and it has not worked since Mexico. Now we charge it using a small Honda generator. So we are using gas to charge an electric motor. Might as well just have a gas ourboard and save the middle man.
We end up spending more than a week here. Other cruisers come and go It is so peaceful. We can see fish swimming all around the boat through the clear water, including a pale yellow shark and an eel. There is a wonderful restaurant called Josephine’s run by an elegant French woman. Dinner by reservation only but we are welcome for other meals. It sits right on the pass and is a great place to watch boats come and go and dolphins playing in the waves.
Tuesday, July 22, 2014
Sunday, July 6, 2014
Marquesas to Rangeroa
June 3, 2014
Marquesas to Tuamotos
Time to leave the Marqueses, stunning sheer cliffs covered with lush greenery dropping hundreds of feet into the warm sea. Even though we are on the leeward side the wind from the open ocean howls down the valleys and across the bay. Anchor up, we are cautiously under way about 10:30. When we round the protective spit of land enclosing the bay, we are faced with strong wind, large swells and whitecaps. For over an hour Rhapsody’s old but reliable Perkins engine pushes us steadily away from the rocky shores and into the open ocean. Up she goes and then down and up again and down . The swells are far enough apart and even enough that she just rides them smoothly up and down.
After about an hour Alan decides that the waves have smoothed out enough and we are far enough from land that he can start putting up sails. We have decided to leave the main sail down and securely tied so that it does not rip any more. We hold our breath as he raises the jib. Will the stitching hold? We did not get a chance to inspect it after it was repaired so we have no idea how good a job Kevin did. Up it goes. Looks good. Seems to be strong. They left my hand stitching attempt in and just stitched over it and cleaned up the edges. On one side you can hardly tell it was ripped. On the other side there is a bright blue line where I used a different color of sailcloth for the patch. We raise the mizzen and it is time to turn off the engine. Wow! We are flying along at 6 knots even without the main sail. At this rate we will be there in 3 days. We settle down for a great ride.
Late in the afternoon Alan decides to reef down the mizzen. That turns out to be easier said than done. We have only done this once before and cannot quite remember how we did it. The big problem is that the end of the boom sticks way out over the back of the boat and we cannot reach it without climbing over the rail and balancing on the wind vane assembly. Not something that we are about to do in this weather in the open ocean. Eventually we get it lowered and tied, although the middle billows out like a pregnant woman’s belly. There is too much wind to chance messing with it any more and it does not seem to be under too much strain so we decide to leave it. Since it is right over the cockpit it is easy to keep an eye on it for signs of ripping. The wind continues to blow and we are still doing over 5 knots.. This lasts for 2 days. Just as I am getting excited about getting there the wind dies. The next 24 hours we only go 35 knots. We finally decide that it is silly to loose sleep and work so hard for nothing. We are not making any headway just wallowing along in the wrong direction So we heave to and go to sleep. During the night the wind comes up with a vengeance and it starts to rain, making us even happier that we are hove to. and not outside getting soaked.
Next morning it is still raining but it is time to get going. I had backed away all of our foul weather gear when we arrived in the Marquesas, figuring that now that we were n the tropics We wouldn't need it, so now I got to dig it all out again. The wind had picked up although not like before but the rain did not quit. This is not a quick squall but a steady downpour. When it was time to change watches one person would get into whatever dry clothes were still left and go out on deck while the other went down below and hung wet clothes all over the cabin to dry.. My “frog togg “ jacket is doing just fine. I wish I had the overalls to match.
Of course we eventually made landfall in the middle of the night again, on my watch. As we got close I spotted the lights from another boat. It did not show up on the AIS so I assumed it was a fishing boat. It was hard to tell which way it was going but eventually I spotted a green light which should have meant that it was going to pass us going the other way. Since the cockpit VHS radio is not working, Alan got on the radio in the cabin and put out a call to see if they would answer. Instead of our unknown boat, he got an answer from another cruising boat, Pamela, that was apparently just a few miles away and also going into Rangeroa. Meanwhile, the mystery boat passed slowly by in the distance. And then suddenly, when I thought it was completely gone, it was almost on top of us, coming fast and shining a very bright light right at us. I screamed for Alan, turned on the engine and tried to figure out which way to go. I was sure it was going to hit us. Maybe it was pirates and they were going to board us. After what seemed like forever but was probably only a few minutes they were suddenly gone again. Just a bright light disappearing into the distance. I kept a close watch in the direction they had gone for a long time but they did not come back and we never figured out what the story was.
By this time we were within a few miles of Rangeroa and it was time to heave to until daylight. It is important to enter the pass in the atoll at slack tide, just when it is turning. Our research had showed that it should be 8:30 am. Just to be safe, we checked with Pamela to see what information they had. They were sure that slack tide was 6:30. After some consideration we decided to go with their information. That still gave us several hours to sleep.
6am, daylight, time to get up, make spot of coffee and get going if we are going to make the tide. Thank heavens the rain has stopped. Pamela is supposed to be just a few miles behind us but we cannot see her. This is my first sight of an atoll. Really interesting. The palm trees just seem to grow right out of the water. The land is not much more than a few feet above water level. Quite different from the towering cliffs of the Marquesas. We can see the break in the surf indicating the pass inside. We get out the iPad and check the course, turn on the engine and the depth gage. According to the chart, it is sort of a winding entrance. We need to avoid the shoal on one side and the reef on the other and then pass the red marker and go all the way around the island just inside the entrance. I station myself on the bow to keep a lookout. It does not look like slack water but we are going in. As we start in we are joined by a pod of dolphins, raising along side and leaping in the waves. There are definitely waves, not huge but enough to give Rhapsody quite a push. At one point Alan looks over his shoulder and sees a large swell bearing down. He guns the engine and we surf on in. It seems to take forever but finally we are in. The dolphins have gone back out to play in the waves and escort Paamela who we now see just starting to enter.
There is clam water and sunshine inside. Rangeroa is one of the largest atolls in the world, so big we cannot see across. We make our way around the island guarding the entrance and drop anchor in front of the bungalows of a fancy hotel. Anchoring is sort of interesting. the water is deep but there is a lot of coral. On our first pass, just as Alan is about to let the anchor go the depth gage goes from 6 fathoms to 3 fathoms. I yell “no” and turn back out to try again. The same thing happens on the second pass but I don’t yell in time and the anchor goes down onto a large pile of coral, probably to wrap itself around and make leaving difficult. Oh well, too late. We will deal with that is a few days when we are ready to leave. For now, time to get warm and dry and rested.
Marquesas to Tuamotos
Time to leave the Marqueses, stunning sheer cliffs covered with lush greenery dropping hundreds of feet into the warm sea. Even though we are on the leeward side the wind from the open ocean howls down the valleys and across the bay. Anchor up, we are cautiously under way about 10:30. When we round the protective spit of land enclosing the bay, we are faced with strong wind, large swells and whitecaps. For over an hour Rhapsody’s old but reliable Perkins engine pushes us steadily away from the rocky shores and into the open ocean. Up she goes and then down and up again and down . The swells are far enough apart and even enough that she just rides them smoothly up and down.
After about an hour Alan decides that the waves have smoothed out enough and we are far enough from land that he can start putting up sails. We have decided to leave the main sail down and securely tied so that it does not rip any more. We hold our breath as he raises the jib. Will the stitching hold? We did not get a chance to inspect it after it was repaired so we have no idea how good a job Kevin did. Up it goes. Looks good. Seems to be strong. They left my hand stitching attempt in and just stitched over it and cleaned up the edges. On one side you can hardly tell it was ripped. On the other side there is a bright blue line where I used a different color of sailcloth for the patch. We raise the mizzen and it is time to turn off the engine. Wow! We are flying along at 6 knots even without the main sail. At this rate we will be there in 3 days. We settle down for a great ride.
Late in the afternoon Alan decides to reef down the mizzen. That turns out to be easier said than done. We have only done this once before and cannot quite remember how we did it. The big problem is that the end of the boom sticks way out over the back of the boat and we cannot reach it without climbing over the rail and balancing on the wind vane assembly. Not something that we are about to do in this weather in the open ocean. Eventually we get it lowered and tied, although the middle billows out like a pregnant woman’s belly. There is too much wind to chance messing with it any more and it does not seem to be under too much strain so we decide to leave it. Since it is right over the cockpit it is easy to keep an eye on it for signs of ripping. The wind continues to blow and we are still doing over 5 knots.. This lasts for 2 days. Just as I am getting excited about getting there the wind dies. The next 24 hours we only go 35 knots. We finally decide that it is silly to loose sleep and work so hard for nothing. We are not making any headway just wallowing along in the wrong direction So we heave to and go to sleep. During the night the wind comes up with a vengeance and it starts to rain, making us even happier that we are hove to. and not outside getting soaked.
Next morning it is still raining but it is time to get going. I had backed away all of our foul weather gear when we arrived in the Marquesas, figuring that now that we were n the tropics We wouldn't need it, so now I got to dig it all out again. The wind had picked up although not like before but the rain did not quit. This is not a quick squall but a steady downpour. When it was time to change watches one person would get into whatever dry clothes were still left and go out on deck while the other went down below and hung wet clothes all over the cabin to dry.. My “frog togg “ jacket is doing just fine. I wish I had the overalls to match.
Of course we eventually made landfall in the middle of the night again, on my watch. As we got close I spotted the lights from another boat. It did not show up on the AIS so I assumed it was a fishing boat. It was hard to tell which way it was going but eventually I spotted a green light which should have meant that it was going to pass us going the other way. Since the cockpit VHS radio is not working, Alan got on the radio in the cabin and put out a call to see if they would answer. Instead of our unknown boat, he got an answer from another cruising boat, Pamela, that was apparently just a few miles away and also going into Rangeroa. Meanwhile, the mystery boat passed slowly by in the distance. And then suddenly, when I thought it was completely gone, it was almost on top of us, coming fast and shining a very bright light right at us. I screamed for Alan, turned on the engine and tried to figure out which way to go. I was sure it was going to hit us. Maybe it was pirates and they were going to board us. After what seemed like forever but was probably only a few minutes they were suddenly gone again. Just a bright light disappearing into the distance. I kept a close watch in the direction they had gone for a long time but they did not come back and we never figured out what the story was.
By this time we were within a few miles of Rangeroa and it was time to heave to until daylight. It is important to enter the pass in the atoll at slack tide, just when it is turning. Our research had showed that it should be 8:30 am. Just to be safe, we checked with Pamela to see what information they had. They were sure that slack tide was 6:30. After some consideration we decided to go with their information. That still gave us several hours to sleep.
6am, daylight, time to get up, make spot of coffee and get going if we are going to make the tide. Thank heavens the rain has stopped. Pamela is supposed to be just a few miles behind us but we cannot see her. This is my first sight of an atoll. Really interesting. The palm trees just seem to grow right out of the water. The land is not much more than a few feet above water level. Quite different from the towering cliffs of the Marquesas. We can see the break in the surf indicating the pass inside. We get out the iPad and check the course, turn on the engine and the depth gage. According to the chart, it is sort of a winding entrance. We need to avoid the shoal on one side and the reef on the other and then pass the red marker and go all the way around the island just inside the entrance. I station myself on the bow to keep a lookout. It does not look like slack water but we are going in. As we start in we are joined by a pod of dolphins, raising along side and leaping in the waves. There are definitely waves, not huge but enough to give Rhapsody quite a push. At one point Alan looks over his shoulder and sees a large swell bearing down. He guns the engine and we surf on in. It seems to take forever but finally we are in. The dolphins have gone back out to play in the waves and escort Paamela who we now see just starting to enter.
There is clam water and sunshine inside. Rangeroa is one of the largest atolls in the world, so big we cannot see across. We make our way around the island guarding the entrance and drop anchor in front of the bungalows of a fancy hotel. Anchoring is sort of interesting. the water is deep but there is a lot of coral. On our first pass, just as Alan is about to let the anchor go the depth gage goes from 6 fathoms to 3 fathoms. I yell “no” and turn back out to try again. The same thing happens on the second pass but I don’t yell in time and the anchor goes down onto a large pile of coral, probably to wrap itself around and make leaving difficult. Oh well, too late. We will deal with that is a few days when we are ready to leave. For now, time to get warm and dry and rested.
Nuka Hiva, Daniel's Bay waterfall
June 2, 2014
The hike to the waterfall
Overlapping points of land hide the bay so that if you did not know it was there you would never find it. A lovely sheltered cove surrounded by steep volcanic cliffs, packed with boats. There is barely room to anchor. We find a spot and drop anchor and relax. It has only taken us a little over an hour to make the trip but I am a nervous wreck from the wild wind, crazy seas and tricky entrance. We are here to hike to the waterfall, the 3rd highest in the world.
In the morning we take the dingy ashore and set off. The books say it is a 2.5 hour walk to the waterfall, The trail follows the shore around a point and suddenly we are in a lush valley running back between sheer cliffs. The grass has been mowed to form a lovely meadow planted with fruit trees; pampelmose, palm, lime, banana and hibiscus everywhere. There are lovely homes scattered up the valley, a few people working in the orchards, dogs, horses.
Gradually the valley narrows and we leave the cultivated land behind and enter a forest of hau trees, The ground covered with the lovely blossoms in a colors form bright yellow to deep crimson. The Hau tree is an ancestral variety of hibiscus that grows everywhere on these islands. It has long thin branches that take root when they touch the ground forming a tangled maze of trees. The blossoms are bright yellow in the morning and gradually darken during the day until by nightfall they are a rich crimson. There is a variety in Mexico that is slightly smaller and becomes a deep blood red. They only last for one day.
As we walk along we realize that we are following ruined walls of an old town. For the entire 3 hour hike we are surrounded by the remainders of a vast civilization that once lived here. Every where you look there are walls of massive stones now overgrown with ferns and moss. Sometimes walking along old walls, sometimes squishing through the mud, deep and deeper into the valley we go. If you look up at the cliffs it seems like they are going to fall in on you.
We come to an open spot in the trees and there, miles ahead, is the waterfall dropping from the top of the cliffs. Then we are back under the trees and in the shadow of the cliffs.
The trail in marked with piles of stones at random intervals but on one particularly soggy patch we loose the trail and come again to the river, now running deep and fast. It looks like the path continues on the other side. We plunge in, hanging onto rocks and make it across to discover that this is not the main path. There is a lovely view of the waterfall from here but the path peters out into a treacherous meadow where the rocks and mud and fallen branches are covered with plants so that you cannot see where to step We try several directions but ii becomes obvious that this is not it. I am ready to stop and eat lunch and head back but Alan is determined to keep on. Back on the other side of the river we find an old wall and follow it through the trees until Alan spots another pile of stones marking the path. On we go. We cross the river again, wet up to our knees, solving onto the rocks to avoid being swept downstream. The cool water feels good. Alan leans over too far and our tube of insect repellant slips out of his backpack and goes floating downstream. We catch up with a small group of French bickers who tell us it is “just 5 more minutes”.
Then we are skirting a sheer cliff, across the river again and out into an open meadow. There is the waterfall hundreds of feet above. We cannot see the base of it because it is hidden around the curve of another sheer rock face. Time for lunch and a rest before we head on back down. It is after noon. The hike has taken us almost 3 hours and we do not want to be caught out in the dark. It is still hard to realize that it is dark by 6:00. The walk down goes more quickly. It is quiet here with only the sound of the river and the birds. We do not see anyone else. The french group is ahead of us and there is one more group of sailors behind us. We stop about halfway to eat our last pampelmose. This is a wonderfully sweet fruit much like a grapefruit, very juicy and messy but delicious. When we reach the valley floor we are intercepted by a woman offering us lunch for only 2,000CPF ($20) unfortunately we have not brought any money with us so we decline regretfully and go on our way back along the shore to where we left the dingy. We have a quick swim on the beach and then head back, ready for dinner and bed.
When we anchored here yesterday there were 16 boats in this tiny bay. This morning about half of them left and by the time we got back from our hike there was only one other boat left. During the night we were buffeted by strong gusts of wind tearing down the canyons and across the bay. This was the first time we had anything blow overboard in all of our stormy sailing. We lost both a blouse that I had left out to dry and a dingy fender. Tomorrow we leave the Marquesas for the Tuamotos.
Nuka Hiva Road Trip
May 25, 2012
Nuka Hiva, Road trip
Along with 3 other couples, we decided to rent cars and drive around the island. Nuka Hiva is a volcanic mass that rises straight up our of the ocean. So our trip began with s short trip through the town and then a switch bcd ascent up and up through lush vegetation to the top of the island. As you can imagine the views were extraordinary from the top. Steep cliffs going straight down into brilliant blue ocean with an occasional sailboat at anchor or underway. An interesting twist is that whenever we saw a boat we tried to identify it. Often we knew who it was.
The sides of the mountain were covered with ferns, orchids, hibiscus, mango trees, palms, banana trees papaya and so many others. Coming from Southern California. most of them were familiar but I kept thinking to the early English botanists and how overwhelmed they must have been at the rich variety of unknown plant species. I can just see them with their shovels and bags and notebooks, making their way through the jungle finding one new plant after the other and then huddled over their workbench during the next passage trying to organize and categorize it all. I think I must have some of their blood in my veins because I could not stop myself from collecting small species of ferns and orchids to take back to the boat. By the end of the day my pockets were stuffed. I doubt that they will grow but I will give it a try.
Deep in the jungle we cane to the partially restored ruins of an ancient town several thousand years old. Large stone blocks were piled up to form road ways and platforms that ran for miles through the jungle. There must have been thousands of people living here at one point. Now there are only a few living along the coast and the old buildings are overgrown with vegetation. But it has only been a few hundred years since the white man arrived with the diseases and new ways that decimated the population and some of the old knowledge has survived. Today there are attempts to clear out and rebuild some of the ruins and colorful festivals are held here once or twice a year.
After an hour or two we came out on a small village set in a lovely bay. The restaurant here was supposed to be the best on the island and we were very ready for lunch. The menu featured goat and pork stewed in cocoanut or rum, raw fish in coconut juice or grilled fish, pork stew and several varieties of curry. Portions were huge with sides of sweet potatoes and rice and everything was delicious.
After lunch we piled back into the cars to continue our circuit of the island. We had been warned that soon after this town it would degenerate into little more than a goat track and it proved to be very true. For the next 2 hours we wandered through jungle, across rivers, through pastures and fields dodging cows, horses and goats and passing only the occasional house. Luckily the cars were 4 wheel drive because we needed it before we were through. We went straight up and then straight down again hugging the side of the cliff. the pavement had long since disappeared. As we got higher the trees thinned out and we found ourselves on an open plateau It almost looked like the high desert in Arizona. And then, around several more gullies and up and down some more cliffs the air became very cool and we found ourselves in a thick forest of pine trees. Entirely unexpected. We found out later that they had been planted and had quickly become naturalized to the point that they had begun sucking up water that previously had poured over the cliffs as waterfalls and endangering native vegetation. As we continued we came to a spot where giant tree ferns, 30-40 feet tall, were intermingled with the pines. It looked like something out of Jurrasic Park.
As the afternoon began to fade we once more found ourselves looking down on the bay where we had started and our own boats riding quietly at anchor. We ended the day with drinks on the terrace of a lovely hotel watching the sun set.
Nuka Hiva, Road trip
Along with 3 other couples, we decided to rent cars and drive around the island. Nuka Hiva is a volcanic mass that rises straight up our of the ocean. So our trip began with s short trip through the town and then a switch bcd ascent up and up through lush vegetation to the top of the island. As you can imagine the views were extraordinary from the top. Steep cliffs going straight down into brilliant blue ocean with an occasional sailboat at anchor or underway. An interesting twist is that whenever we saw a boat we tried to identify it. Often we knew who it was.
The sides of the mountain were covered with ferns, orchids, hibiscus, mango trees, palms, banana trees papaya and so many others. Coming from Southern California. most of them were familiar but I kept thinking to the early English botanists and how overwhelmed they must have been at the rich variety of unknown plant species. I can just see them with their shovels and bags and notebooks, making their way through the jungle finding one new plant after the other and then huddled over their workbench during the next passage trying to organize and categorize it all. I think I must have some of their blood in my veins because I could not stop myself from collecting small species of ferns and orchids to take back to the boat. By the end of the day my pockets were stuffed. I doubt that they will grow but I will give it a try.
Deep in the jungle we cane to the partially restored ruins of an ancient town several thousand years old. Large stone blocks were piled up to form road ways and platforms that ran for miles through the jungle. There must have been thousands of people living here at one point. Now there are only a few living along the coast and the old buildings are overgrown with vegetation. But it has only been a few hundred years since the white man arrived with the diseases and new ways that decimated the population and some of the old knowledge has survived. Today there are attempts to clear out and rebuild some of the ruins and colorful festivals are held here once or twice a year.
After an hour or two we came out on a small village set in a lovely bay. The restaurant here was supposed to be the best on the island and we were very ready for lunch. The menu featured goat and pork stewed in cocoanut or rum, raw fish in coconut juice or grilled fish, pork stew and several varieties of curry. Portions were huge with sides of sweet potatoes and rice and everything was delicious.
After lunch we piled back into the cars to continue our circuit of the island. We had been warned that soon after this town it would degenerate into little more than a goat track and it proved to be very true. For the next 2 hours we wandered through jungle, across rivers, through pastures and fields dodging cows, horses and goats and passing only the occasional house. Luckily the cars were 4 wheel drive because we needed it before we were through. We went straight up and then straight down again hugging the side of the cliff. the pavement had long since disappeared. As we got higher the trees thinned out and we found ourselves on an open plateau It almost looked like the high desert in Arizona. And then, around several more gullies and up and down some more cliffs the air became very cool and we found ourselves in a thick forest of pine trees. Entirely unexpected. We found out later that they had been planted and had quickly become naturalized to the point that they had begun sucking up water that previously had poured over the cliffs as waterfalls and endangering native vegetation. As we continued we came to a spot where giant tree ferns, 30-40 feet tall, were intermingled with the pines. It looked like something out of Jurrasic Park.
As the afternoon began to fade we once more found ourselves looking down on the bay where we had started and our own boats riding quietly at anchor. We ended the day with drinks on the terrace of a lovely hotel watching the sun set.
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