Tahiti gardens and fire walk

July 2, 2014
Tahiti, gardens and fire walk

Alan needs to spend the day working on the starter so I decide to take the car and go back down to the end of the island to see some of the things that we missed.  After all, we have the car and will probably never be back here again.  I planned on an leisurely trip with time to investigate several small stores that we had passed and get lunch at one of the food stands.  Typically, I was late leaving.  Alan had stuff that had to be done before he could take me ashore so it was almost noon when I set off and I needed to be back by 4:00 to pick him up and get to the fire walk ceremony tonight.

So off i went, headed down the length of the island to the botanic garden.  It has been a long time since I drove a car and still longer since I drove stick shift but after a few miles everything went smoothly.  I negotiated roundabouts and construction sites with aplomb.  An hour later found me walking into the swampy woods of the botanic gardens.. It was not large and there were almost no explanatory signs.  The path wound along a stream, through large stands of trees and then across open meadows.  I wish I could remember what kind of trees they were.  They had the most amazing roots,  sharp as a knife on top.  Ferns grew up the trunks.  There was a cage with two lethargic Galapagos turtles .  Very peaceful. I could have spent hours just wandering and looking but I had no time.  I completed the 2.5 hour walk in 30 minutes, turned in my map and headed back north. 

About a mile back up the road there is a sign for “Water Garden”.  I have no idea what it is but it sounds lovely.  It turns out to be even better than the botanic gardens.  Tucked between the edge of the ocean and the steep cliff is a beautifully landscaped path that winds and climbs among waterfalls and ponds.  No admission fee here, just a gift shop.  The best part is that every plant and tree has a little sign telling what it is, where it came from and how it is used.  The garden purports to follow the adventure of an eternal spirit from death through a series of rituals and quests until all the past misdeeds are cleansed and the spirit is ready for eternal life.  At one point I come to a junction with a 2 hour hiking trail that climbs up the side of the cliff.  I wish I had the time to follow it but I only have another 15 minutes here.  There are ginger plants, white ginger, red ginger, pink ginger, giant ginger and several other varieties.  Tiare, mango, polynesian chestnut, lychee trees.  Water lilies in a variety of colors and lovely waterfalls and cascades everywhere.  Once again I could spend hours here and have no more time

About half way back to town is my last stop, advertised as “grottoes” There is not even a parking lot here, just a wide spot in the road as it skirts the base of the cliff .  A few steps up the path leads to the cliff face, towering above and  dripping with ferns.  It is also dripping with water and ahead is a large opening with a pool of clear water reaching far back into a dark cave.  I take off my shoes and wade out into it.  Lovely, cool, mysterious.  I am tempted to see how far back into the grotto I can go but again I have no time. Signs indicate that there are several more grottos but it is time to get back to town. 

Once I collected Alan and we grabbed a quick dinner we headed out of town again to a small park along the beach for the Fire walk.  We had no idea what to expect but the advertisements said that everyone except very young children and menstruating women was welcome to participate.  Chairs were set around a large pile of stones and as darkness fell torches were lighted.  There were several hundred people present and almost everyone in the audience spoke French and seemed to know each other so this was obviously not just a show for the tourists.  Once the torches were lit there was a long speech in French and Tahitian   As best we could understand, there was a history of the tradition with an admonition that this was a sacred rite and not to be undertaken frivolously.  There was also a long list of sponsors and friends to be thanked.  Next came a procession of elders, dressed in their native costume, with stern faces.  There was a short dance performance and then the elders walked across the stones four times, once in each direction with suitable prayers to the gods.  Once they were done  it was the turn of the apprentices and the dancers and then everyone in the audience was invited.  I was nervous but determined to do this.  Alan had decided it was silly and was going to sit it out.  One by one  people stood and got into the line.  It was an interesting experience.  There was almost complete silence.  Shoes were left behind and we were told to just walk fearlessly ahead without stopping.  There were quite a few children and even parents with babies in arms participating.  It was obvious that the stones were hot, from time to time the line would be stopped so that burning embers could be brushed off, but there was no sensation of heat on my feet.  In the end, Alan decided that he did not want to be left out so he joined the line too.  And that was it.  One by one, people walked across and then gradually drifted off home.