Huanine to Raiatea

Aug 3, 2012  Huahini to Raitaea

It is a lovely day with a light wind when we take off from Huanine, headed for Raiatea just 20 miles away.  Raiatea is the spiritual center of Polynesia and the site of the most important marae or religious sites.  All other temples throughout Polynesia, including Hawaii, look to Raiatea as the center and all of them incorporate a stone from here in their construction. The main maera is at the southern end of the island so we are headed there to anchor first.  Tomorrow we will move on up to the main town.  Our anticipated day sail turns to to be a motor cruise.  There is almost no wind and the sky is clear and sunny.  For the first time in a long time it is actually hot.  A few hours later we are entering the pass through the coral reef on Raiatea headed up into a deep bay to anchor and straight into a mass of grey cloud  As we follow the buoys up into the bay the cliffs close in around us.  It is cool and misty, not quite rain but almost.  We head deeper up not the bay until we are surrounded by steep green cliffs wreathed in cloud and drop anchor in 50 feet of clear water.  It is so quiet here.  There are only a few houses along the shore, a couple of other boats anchored nearby.  Quite a change from yesterday.

There is a river at the head of the bay which heads deep into the jungle. Since we still have a few hours of daylight left we decide to launch the dingy go exploring.  This is still another world.  Dense growth along the river banks allow brief glimpses of cultivated fields beyond.  We thread carefully around shallows and tree limbs for almost an hour before turning back.  Brilliant tropical flowers grow wild here.  I gather armfuls to take back to the boat.  

The next day we et out to visit the marae.   I have missed visiting the ruins on all of the islands and I am determined to visit this one. As far as we can tell for looking at our various maps and charts and guide books, it is several miles further down towards the end of the island.  We need to go out of this bay and across two other small bays to get there.  It will be a long, cold, wet dingy ride since the weather is still gloomy but we decide not to go to all the trouble of raising the anchor and moving the boat.

Eventually we arrive at what we think must be the right place.  There is a cement wharf, several palm huts and a large arena.  a handful of people are gathered under a tent having lunch and kids play in the water.  It is rainy and feels cool but it is never actually cold here and kids will always play in the water given the change no matter the weather.  We tie the dingy to a tree and wander ashore.  We are in a large park with short grass and wonderful large trees.  Signs identify the trees and explain religious and spiritual meaning.  The marae itself are large stone platforms with large standing stones along the back.  Originally there were palm buildings but they havens since fallen apart.  At the center of the largest platform is a pile of stones that seems to be an alter.  It is covered with gifts, necklaces, flowers, pots, wood carvings, etc.  Obviously the old religion has not entirely disappeared.  In fact the site is still used for important ceremonies.  It is lovely here, calm, peaceful.  There are sudden rain showers followed by clearing and rainbows. Finally we head back to the dingy and another long wet ride back.  Back aboard, we hang our wet clothes and get into soft pjs and brew up some hot buttered rum. 

Next day we move out, headed up island to the main town.