Tonga to Fiji

Oct 4, 2014
Tonga to Fiji

This was the best passage of the trip and the one that comes closest to the promised trade wind sailing.  There was rain the night before and cloudy in the morning but it was not raining.  The weather forecast  seems OK, as far as we can tell.   We are a few days from the full moon.  There is a prediction of 20-25 knot winds for a few hours on Wed. morning but we should be OK.  It is Monday morning and we are planning on 7 days to go 700+ miles and probably an extra 1/2 day to get through the reef and up to the marina.  We have almost never done more than 100 miles per day, usually less.

Once away from the islands of Tonga the weather cleared.  We hoisted jib and mizzen.  The main sail is double reefed because of the rip but we probably won’t actually use it.  We seem to do just fine with jib and mizzen.  The wind picked up to about 15 knots.  Seas were relatively smooth .  We were on a reach and just flying along at 6.5+ knots.  Perfect.  And it kept up like that all day, all night and most of the next day.  Darn, this has thrown our schedule completely off.  We have just done 2 days passage in one day.  If we keep up this pace we will get there on Friday, which we just found out is a holiday.  There is no chance we can make it by Thursday morning, even at this speed. 

 Suddenly on the weather reports we started hearing about 3-4 meter swells for the next week days in the Kandavu pass, just where we had planned to go.  Since Fiji is covered with small atolls, reefs and islands, Alan had decided we would play it safe and sail the southern route and then turn north to Vuda Point when we had cleared most of the hazards.  Now it looks like that was not such a good idea.  In fact, when we checked in with Gulf Harbor Radio weather they said, “If you are not too far away, you should turn back and wait a week”.  Would have been nice if they had said that several days ago.  We are not going back but we can change our course.  We have plenty of time.  If we get in among the islands they should smooth out the swells.  So we turn right and head due north for about 24 hours.  Still beautiful sailing weather, despite what the weather reports are saying.  Easy swells, perfect wind, good speed and the auto pilot is working!  This is how it should be. We officially crossed the 180 degree line so our position is now east not west longitude.  The date line actually takes a jog around Tonga so we had already adjusted the calendar.

Once we turned west again we were quickly in among islands.  Now we really need to keep a close watch.  The charts on the iPad are good but not infallible   They show patches of shallow water and barely covered reefs everywhere.  The weather holds good.  Some clouds but not enough to cover the moon.  10-15 knot wind  We weave our way through lovely islands with small villages.  I wish we could stop but the immigration rules in Fiji are very strict.  No stopping until you have officially checked in so we just keep on trekking

Of course it does not last.   On Saturday the wind drops altogether.   We decided to take advantage of the lack of wind to heave to and drop the jib to stitch up another tear.  This time we caught it while it was still just a few inches long.  Out comes the needle and thread and leather palm.  I am getting disgustingly good an mending patched sails.  Unfortunately, I had forgotten that the fishing line was out and while we were stopped it wrapped itself around the prop.   So Alan went overboard with mask and snorkel and got it untangled, although we lost another lure.  While we were at it, we decided to run the water maker.  Suddenly there was the smell of something electrical burning.   The engine is not on so it is not that.  It seems to be coming from the electrical panel.  No fire but somehow we have managed to fry the electrical system.  Luckily the engine battery was not affected so the engine still starts.  But for some odd reason the stove won’t light without power so dinner is cooked on sterno.  It actually works pretty well, although it takes longer to get hot.

We are almost to the waypoint where we will turn to head through the reef and up the coast to Vuda Point.  Now for the waiting game.  It looks to be about 20 miles to the marina once we are inside the reef.  Customs only works from 10-12 so the plan is to heave to just outside and head in at dawn.  The question is, how close should we get before we heave to.  If we stand well off we will have to get started again in the dark.  If we get too close we run the risk of drifting onto a reef in the night.  Eventually we pick a spot and heave to.  Alan goes straight to sleep.  I am up every hour all night checking our position.  Finally I decide that it is dawn and time for Alan to get up.  I manage to make coffee and oatmeal on the sterno and we set off into the dawn. 

About 9:30 we make radio contact with the marina and are told to tie up to the orange bout and wait for the medical officer to come on board.  Two hours later we are still sitting there  and getting nervous because custom is supposed to close at noon.  Finally he shows up, gives up a guck once over, fills out some paperwork and asks for money.  Now this is a problem because since we haven’t been ashore yet we have no Fiji money just our reserve US dollars and he does not know the exchange rate.  Eventually we settle on an amount and we are cleared to enter.  Once inside the marina, we directed to a dock where 2 smiling young men are waiting to grab lines and tie us up.  As soon as we are secure our dock hands pick up guitars and serenade us with a welcome to Fiji song.  We are here!

Next aboard is the biosecurity inspector.  Again a lot of paperwork is filled out.  We don’t have any fresh fruit of vegetables left so only our honey is confiscated.  Again the problem of payment.  Again the official seems at a loss to know what to do about the fact that we have no Fijian money.  Finally Alan is directed to an ATM ashore.  Payment is made, papers are stamped and that is done.  Two down, two to go.  Customs and immigration are in an air conditioned office just off the dock.  Two very bored young women. More documents inspected and papers stamped.  Now we find out that our exit papers from Tonga were never properly stamped  (remember all that confusion with the gas truck?)  Eventually they decide that it must be OK and we are officially stamped into the country. 

It is well after noon by this time.  We are hot, tired and hungry and most of the marina staff is at lunch and right next to the dock is a lovely restaurant with cold beer and smiling staff.   After lunch we take a walk around the marina to check it out and pick our spot.  The marina is a round basin and the boats are tied in bow first just about a foot apart.  There are no separating docks, just a small utility platform sticking our from the cement wall to step onto.  We pick a spot reasonably closet to the bathrooms and let the office know we are ready.  We put out every fender we have.  One young man joins us onboard and another guides us from a skiff.  When we get to the right spot there is a crowd of people waiting to pull lines.  Two lines are tied from the stern to a mooring ball and another two are tied to iron rings set into the concrete wall   Lines are adjusted back and forth until the tension is right and here we are.  There is a small boat with 2 young frenchmen on board on one side and a large boat which has just been bought  by a young Chinese couple on the other side.  All around are friends we have met over the past two years sailing.  Some people will be staying here with us.  Some leave their boats in the pits and fly home.  Most will be here for a week or so and then head to Australia or New Zealand for the season.

It is a lovely place with very friendly people.  I am really glad we will be staying here for the next 6 months.