April 18, 2014
heading South

There are two bands of westerly trade winds blowing across the Pacific, one north of the equator and one south of it.  In between, about 10 degrees north, is what used to be calIed the doldrums and in now called the ITCZ or inter-tropical convergence zone.  This is an area of alternating squalls and doldrums. We have been on a south west heading but as we listen to the evening reports from other boats ahead of us it sounds like they are having a horrible time.  The further west they are the worse it seems to be, so we decide to forget the west and just go straight south.  We are at about longitude 119 and that seems like a good place to make it across.  We keep to that heading for the next week, going a little east but mostly south. 

Little by little I am gaining confidence keeping the helm through heavier and heavier wind.  Just hang on and keep going.  Brace the feet, tighten the abs.  I have calluses on my hands now from gripping the tiller so hard and my backside is covered with rashes and blisters from sitting in puddles of saltwater and sliding along on the non-skid deck hour after hour.  The cockpit cushions are completely soaked and there is not enough time between squalls for them to dry out.  I have discovered that  I have a wonderful raincoat that I had forgotten about.  The fabric almost looks and feels like paper but it is completely waterproof, even in the face of a direct hit by a wave.  Best of all, the fabric is soft and breathable, warm but not bulky.  It is not hard plastic like most waterproof jackets and the water seems to just run right off so that when I take it off it is already dry and I can put it in the closet.   The brand is “Frog Toggs” and I think I found it at Walmart.   If I ever get back to civilization I am going to see if I can find matching overalls. 

We are not seeing very many birds or dolphins any more.  On April 23, about latitude 04N we suddenly have a west wind for several hours and then we are in the doldrums for 3 days.  We do the best we can with the sails we have but eventually we just turn on the engine.  We had planned on this and have enough fuel to get us through.  We get out Fred the auto pilot and finally have a day or 2 to relax and get some sleep.  I take a hot shower and do some laundry.  Of course being old school, Rhapsody does not have a built in shower but I have a portable solar shower that works great.  Heats up isn the sun in about 2 hours and has plenty of water for a good scrub with enough left over for Alan. 

Once through the doldrums, it is back to squalls again with spectacular rainbows.  Some pour down from the clouds like waterfalls of light.  Some arch over the entire sky.  Many are double or even triple.  It is beautiful out here, and peaceful and timeless.  We don’t think about how long it has been or how much longer it will be.  It is just time passing.